Odd problem

[Derek UK]

Check that the jets are returning fully after you come off the choke. One maybe partially sticking, but rises under the influence of the spring after everything warms up. Check at the point where you are having the problem, after 1 mile you say.

[niveketak]

Thanks Derek will have a look at that too.

[dingov70]

Hello there , please start with the basics . Make sure points gap is correct , plugs are good & gapped correctly , inspect dizzy cap for cracks / dark trace marks inside / moisture & dirt on outside of cap & around HT leads close to dizzy cap .

A miniscule amount of moisture can lead to HT tracking away from spark plugs until it evaporates / dries off . Ole faithful wd40 lightly sprayed around cap & leads eliminates them & do the same to coil top , driving away moisture .

Basics first & obscure when all else fails

[niveketak]

Thanks for that Dingo and to everyone else trying to diagnose a problem from a poor description. Dizzy cap new (6 months) as are the leads. Plug and points gap spot on.

Having examined the filter, spotless, the fuel lines all clear, the jets, all free and returning where they should. All electrical connections removed cleaned and put back. I thought I would try another coil anyway so had a look at removing the coil from its hole in the bulkhead where I assume it has been since new, rusty metal case and brown Bosche top. Weirdly, to me, the ignition fed lead goes through a centimetre thick armoured tube from the ignition switch to the bottom of the coil, which throws up a problem for installing a new one as it can't mount in the same place. I have never seen this type before, are they actually available in the same format?

[arcturus]

Hi,go to this site and see my article re coil, fourth down
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1778957228856655/

[blueosprey90]

Criminies! The dreaded armored cable coil. Before you fight that beast, look to your condenser.

The other things I would check are the rotor - make sure the electric contact on top is not loose - and the carbs. If you have dual SUs, make sure they are perfectly balanced. Although unbalanced carbs would tend to make the car want to stall at idle, I suppose if the engine is pulling off of just one carb at lower rpms, that can also cause your problem.

Of course, this is the internet and I don't have a clue about your issues.

As for the coil, after you drive the car a while, feel it. If it is too hot to touch, it is in failure mode. If it is just a bit warmer than engine bay temp, just leave it alone for now. Maybe Ron will come to the rescue and describe some in situ test you can perform on the coil.

I don't know about your car, but for my PV444, I think the armored cable coils are available, but hideously expensive. The ignition switch is integrated in the arrangement. For my car, kits are available to mount a modern coil and plug up the large hole in the bulkhead. Once again the cost of the kit is more than the car is worth.

[Ron Kwas]

nive;

Ign Coil is part of a secure Coil/Armored Cable/Ign Switch assembly which makes the wire supplying power to Ign Coil completely inaccessible...consequently, it is impossible to "Hot-Wire" a so equipped Volvo (good!).

If you suspect Ign Sys therefore of being responsible for your symptoms, a good (really the only!) troubleshooting technique given the inseparability of Ign Sw and Ign Coil, is to temporarily substitute components like Ign Coil or Dist, and wire them into the existing other Ign components.

...but before troubleshooting Ign Sys by substitution, I suggest checking Centrifugal Advance of Dist, assuring it operates smoothly and returns at idle. Timing Strobe makes this simple! See also: http://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignitio...CA%20Servicing
...I just reread my notes, and I even see the term "bucking bronco" there also, to describe the possible failure symptoms...!

Good Hunting

Edit: Thanks for reference bo...our posts crossed in the ether...

[blueosprey90]

In post #15, Arcturus posted a link to a closed Facebook group for the B4-B16 engines. So I couldn't read the article referenced.


But I asked to join that group, and my "application" is pending. If they have any sense of propriety, they will keep me out. Just like Groucho, I don't want to be a member of any club that would have me for a member.

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by blueosprey90

In post #15, Arcturus posted a link to a closed Facebook group for the B4-B16 engines. So I couldn't read the article referenced.


But I asked to join that group, and my "application" is pending. If they have any sense of propriety, they will keep me out. Just like Groucho, I don't want to be a member of any club that would have me for a member.

This is the text. Tho pic's will make things clearer

Nothing lasts forever including the coil on our PVs. Original replacements are unavailable so how to replace whilst still keeping original appearance and mounting?
First of all unfasten the ignition switch (don't forget to disconnect battery first) by removing the two screws which attach it to the dash. Remove the three screws which hold the coil on the bulkhead. Carefully pull out the whole coil switch assembly. Next you need to cut through the armored cable and separate the coil from the switch. cut off the base of the coil as in photo and then cut off the Bakelite top.You can just make out where on the photo marked in red. You can then push out the innards and leave the holder intact. There are some metal sleeves around the wire coil which you should save. The new coil is then inserted into the mounting,you may need to pack it a bit with the sleeves depending on the diameter of the new coil. Pull off the armor which goes into the switch and solder in a new LT cable. When it,s all re installed the only difference visible from original is an extra terminal.

[blueosprey90]

So I was thinking about the Niveketak Syndrome last night.

So now I remember that my car had a similar issue when I first brought it home. Especially under load. A thorough tune-up seemed to be the cure. My thinking is that it is ultimately a carburetor problem (unbalanced), but checking points, timing, valve lash and the carb adjustment just might do the trick.