Ac compressor

[Anubisxc70]

200 xc70 D5 awd. 116.000k.

I dont know if its a fault but my ac compressor (all works fine)everytime it kicks makes a big noise and make the car drops a few rpm....
Is this ok?
can i make it more...silent?
Many Thanks

[oragex]

Shouldn't be doing that.. at 120k miles is not a bad moment for the pulley bearing to fail, worth testing by hand with the pulley off - good to test all other pulleys at the same time, including the alternator clutch pulley (see Youtube)

A genuine compressor itself should be in top shape at 120k miles, however that may depends if a previous owner did something to it. I wouldn't be surprised to have a problem from lacking oil or from overcharging or some other issue. If it needs replaced, I would try a used genuine one and replace the pulley bearing + adjust the pulley gap when installing it and it should be good for long time

[Anubisxc70]

The noise is just the CLUNK when it kicks when rotating there is no unusual sound. and when it starts the rpm lower a bit

[oragex]

not really sure but may look like the compressor it's seizing, or perhaps the refrigerant doesn't circulate easily through the pipes (may be a blocked expansion valve ?) Just suppositions..

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by Anubisxc70

The noise is just the CLUNK when it kicks when rotating there is no unusual sound. and when it starts the rpm lower a bit

I would have thought that if the pulley bearing or the clutch were failing you would be likely to hear a screeching noise coming from the driven end of the compressor, but it is a good idea to check as oragex suggests.

What you describe a "clunk" noise is normal, the minor drop in revs is also normal, but the revs should come back to their normal level within a few seconds. After the initial engagement of the clutch after a short while it should disengage as the coolant reaches the correct low temperature then re-engage as the coolant warms up - rapid cycling (i.e. engage - disengage - re-enagage) every few seconds is usually a sign of too large a clutch gap which appears as the car the clutch system wears, the gap can be adjusted by decreasing the number of shims, you'll find lots of information re adjusting the clutch by web searching - "Volvo air con clutch repair"

Try SiRob's- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOjqjR8Mz64

[Willow place]

The pulley bearing on my car made a rattling noise, still Poncing about trying to remove the Pulley, ALL the videos show a lot of room!! NO there isn't !!!

[ASt85]

I took mine out with the hoses still attached a couple of years ago - it is a squeeze but possible if you unbolt the compressor & alternator first, you can then rotate it laterally through around 50° to 70° as you look at it from above and then pull the clutch - having said that four or five years ago an air con specialist working on our drive dropped the compressor below the bumper/slam panel line via the right hand side wheel arch access with the hoses still attached to get a clutch puller on to the pulley wheel.
He removed one of the four shims to get the clearance.

When I tried it that way, I couldn't do it because basically I baulked at twisting the hoses to drop it down...he had the bits and pieces & etc to re-gas it on-site. Obviously I didn't so tried a safer route.

The most difficult bit was actually getting the shims right to reduce the gap to the quoted clearance when the pulley was bolted back in to position, it doesn't become totally apparent until you have the clutch fully bolted back into position due to compression of the shims, mine comprised 3 slightly curved (when unloaded) solid spring washers - I dispensed with two, but with hindsight should probably have taken out all three as I had to repeat the process after a few weeks, which is probably why I had to repeat the process after a few weeks.

It is also worth checking the clutch surfaces although they are both metal, my outer face was badly worn, the outer edge more worn than the inner edge, which I flatted before re-installing.

It took me three goes to get the clearance right, which was a pain as you are working at arms length and close to the radiator - with the benefit of 20/20 hindsight it would probably be a lot easier to do if you remove the radiator, but leave the aircon heater exchange in place. However, you've then got the extra hassle of renewing/replacing the antifreeze.

[Anubisxc70]

Hello.
I have a correction to make she is 216k not 116k.
I will try to post a video.
The rpm take like a second to rev up again.

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by Anubisxc70

Hello.
I have a correction to make she is 216k not 116k.
I will try to post a video.
The rpm take like a second to rev up again.

That is exactly what should happen as the engine compensates for the extra load of the compressor.