D4 VEA Exhaust gas pressure sensor

[Jordanjjn]

Wondering if anyone can help with some tips on removing the pipe connected to this sensor?
The heat shield for the turbo seems to be in the way/ I say seems to as visibility isn’t the best.

Engine code : D4204T5

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Jordanjjn

Wondering if anyone can help with some tips on removing the pipe connected to this sensor?
The heat shield for the turbo seems to be in the way/ I say seems to as visibility isn’t the best.

Engine code : D4204T5

There is a banjo bolt at the lower end ,14 or 15 mm spanner I believe . these pipes cannot be cleared of soot as the bore is so small and the pipe so long. and a bend half way along .

[Baffler]

Originally Posted by Clan

these pipes cannot be cleared of soot as the bore is so small and the pipe so long. and a bend half way along .

I managed to clean mine with a length of bicycle inner brake cable as per this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkWnEGNUdsY but it took some time and effort.

When the pipe was removed the banjo bolt was surprisingly clean but the actual sensor aperture/tip was full of crud. At first I managed to spray some carb cleaner through the pipe but once I tried to push the cable through it became stubbornly blocked so had to work the cable from both ends of the pipe which, after about 30 minutes, eventually broke down the carbon.

The toughest task was trying to reach and line up the banjo with the manifold and not drop and loose the copper washer.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Baffler

I managed to clean mine with a length of bicycle inner brake cable as per this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkWnEGNUdsY but it took some time and effort.

When the pipe was removed the banjo bolt was surprisingly clean but the actual sensor aperture/tip was full of crud. At first I managed to spray some carb cleaner through the pipe but once I tried to push the cable through it became stubbornly blocked so had to work the cable from both ends of the pipe which, after about 30 minutes, eventually broke down the carbon.

The toughest task was trying to reach and line up the banjo with the manifold and not drop and loose the copper washer.

These pipes are about £100 so a job well done, but how is your EGR Cooler doing? Its a wonder you have not got fault code P04D900 which it EGR low flow. you could use some cycle brake cable in a power drill to clear it quicker perhaps...

[Baffler]

Originally Posted by Clan

you could use some cycle brake cable in a power drill to clear it quicker perhaps...

That's exactly what I did but it still took and age

Originally Posted by Clan

but how is your EGR Cooler doing? Its a wonder you have not got fault code P04D900 which it EGR low flow.

No turtle messages or anything regarding EGR. My PIII is still under dealer warranty so I shouldn't actually be doing any work on it but, as I was experiencing the hesitation between 1200 and 1700 rpm, with a cold engine, I was curious to see if cleaning the EMAP would remedy it. It has vastly improved but it's still there so I think I'll need to clean the inlet manifold pressure sensor next. All temporary repairs, as you know, and would ultimately benefit from the piston ring upgrade to reduce the carbon build-up. To the best of my knowledge it's not using oil as I've had no messages in 10 months of ownership.

No idea what warranty work has be carried out to date but judging from the Jubilee clips below the top radiator hose it would appear it's had the coolant reroute modification done. It may have had the EGR cooler replaced, I don't know, but it's due in for service soon so will ask in relation to recall info.

[Jordanjjn]

Originally Posted by Clan

There is a banjo bolt at the lower end ,14 or 15 mm spanner I believe . these pipes cannot be cleared of soot as the bore is so small and the pipe so long. and a bend half way along .

This bolt easily accessible without removing much but the intake? Or will it need the heat shield removing too?

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Jordanjjn

This bolt easily accessible without removing much but the intake? Or will it need the heat shield removing too?

Its just down the back of the engine you work by feel ...not a great deal of room.

[Jordanjjn]

Originally Posted by Clan

Its just down the back of the engine you work by feel ...not a great deal of room.

As it happens I’ve had to remove the upper heat shield to get the bolt out…
And the space I have is still super slim. Work by feel is an understatement 😅

Left the pipe overnight to soak in some acetone and will go at it tomorrow. Reassembly might look like a lot of dropped bolts.

[Baffler]

To stop you from loosing the copper washer you could tie/loop a length of thread through the banjo and copper washer whilst you get a start on the bolt, and then pull the thread out before tightening the rest of the way.

Just to add I removed and cleaned the inlet manifold pressure sensor yesterday and, at first sight, I thought it was melted but was actually heavily encrusted in carbon deposits. I gently removed the deposits with a miniature screwdriver, an old toothbrush and carb cleaner.

Apologies, no pics prior to cleaning as my gloves were filthy.

[Jordanjjn]

Originally Posted by Baffler

To stop you from loosing the copper washer you could tie/loop a length of thread through the banjo and copper washer whilst you get a start on the bolt, and then pull the thread out before tightening the rest of the way.

Just to add I removed and cleaned the inlet manifold pressure sensor yesterday and, at first sight, I thought it was melted but was actually heavily encrusted in carbon deposits. I gently removed the deposits with a miniature screwdriver, an old toothbrush and carb cleaner.

Apologies, no pics prior to cleaning as my gloves were filthy.

Space was really the only issue, visibility of the actual area wasn’t that bad.
I will attach a stock photo of the engine with the bolts I had to remove just to view the banjo bolt. One of them hidden behind the turbo actuator.
Then the lower heat shield still blocks the banjo bolt but there is just enough room to get a 14mm spanner in the do MANY quarter turns. Your tip with the thread helped a lot and it is now back together, engine light cleared and no DTCs as of yet.

A low profile ratchet spanner may fit but it really is tight for space and make sure you keep a magnet on hand to collect dropped bolts and they don’t fall through they get trapped behind the lower heat shield.