1800: Setting Points - Why is it so difficult?

[swedishandgerman]

Have a look at this also. I didn't go into much detail about setting the points, but if you're having a little sort out...

[Laird Scooby]

Pretty good but have i read this bit right?

"Now you need to use 2 feeler gauges on a “go/no-go” basis. The recommended points gap is
0.4mm – 0.5mm. In other words, the 0.4mm gap should not fit but the 0.5mm is slack."

Surely it should be "the 0.5mm feeler should not fit but the 0.4mm is slack"?

Also the way i was taught it was that you set a new set of points to the larger dimension (smooth sliding/borderline tight fit) so that when the car is next due a service, they should still be at least at the minimum dimension.

If you are doing your own maintenance, set it midway between the lower and upper limits, or better still mid-point of the specified dwell angle and check it regularly as in once a month.
Once you've performed this monthly check, also check the timing using a stroboscopic timing light to ensure it is still correct. This takes wear in the dizzy shaft into account and gives the opportunity to verify the mechanical and vacuum advances are working correctly.

[swedishandgerman]

Sorry, I've chosen my wording badly there and made it too complicated. As in, set at 0.4mm the 0.5mm feeler won't go in but the 0.4mm feeler has no resistance so is slack. A 0.45mm feeler will have some resistance.

I wrote the article more to focus on the point of cleaning and lubricating the shaft and springs which far too often gets overlooked.

However, as per my earlier post, the far better method is using a dwell meter where you set it at the widest specified angle (smallest points gap). Then when you do your few thousand mile checks, you only have to re-adjust if it's dropped below the narrowest specified angle.

Specified angle is 59 - 65 degs.

That way you don't have to keep altering the points gap and the dwell meter check takes literally seconds.

I've not re-adjusted points gaps for yonks, but check the dwell angle is within spec when checked every thousand miles or so.

[Laird Scooby]

As the points gap decreases, the dwell angle increases so you should really set the points to the minimum dwell angle so as the points wear and close up in use, the dwell angle increases.

[swedishandgerman]

Gosh. I’ve got myself in a right fluster now! I must slow down my typing. Yes- set to the lowest dwell angle and as the gap narrows, the dwell angle increases

[GreenBrick]

I found the dwell angle meter invaluable for doing points, feeler gauges are just a way to get it running enough to then set properly IMO.

And then redoing the timing with a strobe is best, making sure the engine speed is correct and vacuum hose disconnected (if required).

[swedishandgerman]

Strobe method is great. A an adjustable strobe light is excellent.

Set the strobe at 36 degrees, run the engine at 2,500 rpm and point the strobe. Adjust the Distributor position so the 0 position lines up on the pulley.

Return the engine to idle (or whatever speed the book says) with or without the vac pipe (whatever the book says) adjust the strobe to whatever the book says(usually 9 dogs on most Amazon engines) and point the strobe. If all is good, it should line up with the 0 mark on the pulley. Near enough is good, but the full advance is much more important than the slow running advance setting.

Any signs of pinking at all and it MUST be retarded. Some pink at 34 degrees, some can be set as high as 38 degrees. You must make a note somewhere of the best settings for your engine.

All this depends on what octane petrol you use: if you set up your timing on100 octane fuel then start using regular unleaded, it’s almost definitely going to pink

[fishyboy]

Hi all,
I tried Ron's method (thanks Ron) of loosening then rotating the distributor till the points were fully on the cam, setting the gap and then resetting the timing. Certainly a lot easier being able to get the points exactly on the cam. Previously, I put the car in gear and pushed the car till the cam was in the correct position (which took quite a few goes and very frustrating).

Set the points to the high end (0.02 inch) with a dwell of 56º (should be 59º according to the manual, but whats 3º between friends). Then I set the static timing to 10º at 800rpm, which gave around 17º at 1500rpm and 30º at 2500rpm.

Phil

[Laird Scooby]

Each to their own Phil, i can see how Rons method works and tried it myself a few times when i was but a pup.

Couldn't get on with it and either used the move the car in 4th gear by hand or a spanner/rathcet on the crank pulley bolt as i found those methods easier.

Glad you found a method that works for you, as the points wear and the gap closes the dwell will go up from 56 deg to 59 anyway and more eventually.

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by blueosprey90

I just pull the distributor out of the car and set the points on the bench.

That's what I do.