V70 G/box: 2WD: geartronic box sometimes lumpy

[Willow place]

I got mine on Amazon uk , Mishimoto 4 row transmission cooler kit about 35 pounds, lifetime warranty, Yank stuff .

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by Willow place

I got mine on Amazon uk , Mishimoto 4 row transmission cooler kit about 35 pounds, lifetime warranty, Yank stuff .

Could have sworn ya said a 8 row? thats why i gave up on amazon cause all the 8 rows are from China or Hong Kong, i dont mind the wait too much, its the fact that ya could get stitched at the door for import etc, not always i know but as its a bigger item than sommat you'd order from wish.com, i can see it happening lol

Did you have to buy any extra couplings etc to fit existing pipe work? i am not really mechanically minded so i am struggling to see how i connect it to existing pipe work?

I would need to cut the original oem connector off of the original return line?
Then make new pipe with old oem connector from new cooler to return hole in old cooler
Then using new pipe to go from the new cooler coupled to oem pipe that we snipped off to get the old connector.

Does that sound about right? if so then i will need at least one more coupler

[Willow place]

Hi Bashy , I cut the return line a bit away from the connector no need to disconnect, that was joined onto some of the tube supplied and fixed to the cooler, then the outlet side of the cooler was joined into the return line, I used plumbing fittings ( Yorkshire copper solder joints) They have a lip that secures the pipe better, just like the cooler has, also Misihmoto do an 6 and 8 row cooler , all the best !

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by Willow place

Hi Bashy , I cut the return line a bit away from the connector no need to disconnect, that was joined onto some of the tube supplied and fixed to the cooler, then the outlet side of the cooler was joined into the return line, I used plumbing fittings ( Yorkshire copper solder joints) They have a lip that secures the pipe better, just like the cooler has, also Misihmoto do an 6 and 8 row cooler , all the best !

Thanks Willow, much appreciated it's a last resort to be honest, and it may come to it yet, but the last 18L yesterday seems to have improved things, I took it out for a good thrashing trying my hardest to induce the issues and it wouldn't, the box was easily up to temp I am sure of that, there was no knocks, clunks or bangs until I got home and used reverse, then it did a small bolt, then a few seconds later it engaged with a bigger bolt, but the main drive was great, more so that I wish I could afford to just drive it all day long lol. Going to take it out again tomorrow as I have a Dr appointment about 17 miles away, I will pick a spot and use reverse a lot and see if that will help any, if not then I will have to do one more flush and if that doesn't then it looks like it will be the cooler jobby. Wouldn't be so bad but theres also an injector issue and the control arm bushes need doing, but the way Im looking at it, if I cannot resolve the gb issue then it's pointless wasting more money, I will sell it in then... Again, appreciate the advice, will keep this updated on any progress

[Bashy]

I just want to update this some since the gibbons flush and doing about 200 miles, i think the forward gears are better, still a reasonable clunk into reverse though.

I think something is making the clunk worse than it really is though, theres an obvious looseness of something once the engine gets warm but before the g/box gets up to temp.I was advised to change the lower torque mounting and that i did, it had had it, but that didnt resolve the clunk , you can feel it when you put the power down and also letting up on the pedal, what are we looking at here please? engine mounting?

[BarryCambs]

I'd check for play in the drive shaft CV Joints, as they give a good clunk when they start to go. You need to jack it, so you can turn a wheel while it's in park and it should be pretty obvious

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by BarryCambs

I'd check for play in the drive shaft CV Joints, as they give a good clunk when they start to go. You need to jack it, so you can turn a wheel while it's in park and it should be pretty obvious

Thank you, will have a look at that tomorrow, just need tightening or new?

[Longhouse21]

Check the O/S engine mount below the crankshaft pulley, these do fail, check the top mount (top right looking from front to rear) and check axle bolts under the dust cap. Don't over tighten these, they're stretch bolts and use once. As I understand it, loose bolts can cause "axle ping" symptoms.

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by Longhouse21

Check the O/S engine mount below the crankshaft pulley, these do fail, check the top mount (top right looking from front to rear) and check axle bolts under the dust cap. Don't over tighten these, they're stretch bolts and use once. As I understand it, loose bolts can cause "axle ping" symptoms.

I have checked the top mount, there is slight movement but hard to tell if its gone or on its way out.

Axle bolts, cv joint, are they the same and is that the single bolt?

[barrybritcher]

be interesting to see some data on temps before and after fitting gearbox oil cooler.