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Diesel Engines A forum dedicated to diesel engines fitted to Volvo cars. See the first post in this forum for a list of the diesel engines. |
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2003 S60 D5 ProblemViews : 942 Replies : 9Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 13th, 2020, 18:01 | #1 |
mr
Last Online: Feb 26th, 2020 23:00
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: middlesbrough
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2003 S60 D5 Problem
At the beginning of Jan 20 my partner ran out of fuel in our old S60 2003 D5 at 210 000 miles. When I refueled it it was difficult to start. A few days later a problem developed a loss of power during acceleration, this was immediately followed by the warning on the dashboard saying engine system service urgent, the car would only give limited revs and hence limited speed. Once I could safely stop the car I turned the ignition off and back on. Fault and warning disappeared.It did this on every journey for a few days so changed the fuel filter although the one I took off was only a few months old.The problem continued before I came to total stop and could not get it started again.
The RAC came confirmed a low pressure in the rail and that the low pressure pump in the tank had gone. The vehicle was recovered and the pump replaced drove fine for a few days then same problem occurred. Would not exceed 2500 rpm and kept stopping I could restart the car the fault message would clear but soon as I tried to accelerate same issue "ENGINE SERVICE URGENT" car comes to a stop. RAC called and confirm again Low pressure and pump not working all in less than 10 days. Garage replace pump a BOCH unit and I pick up the car. However, on the journey from the garage problem was back. It grew more frequent and ended up with the car stalling over 30 times during a 10 mile journey. Returned to garage and vehicle plugged in to diagnostics issues displayed were Air mass sensor error, slight fuel system leak , and turbo solenoid issue. MAF sensor replaced but problem continues.The car is not drivable at this time. I did not get the codes from garage at time. Any one have same issue or may know how this can be resolved. |
Feb 13th, 2020, 22:24 | #2 |
Senior Member
Last Online: May 14th, 2020 13:58
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: The countryside
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The lift pumps in the tank are liquid cooled and this don't like being run in a low tank as they then run hot. If the pump goes badly that can contaminate the fuel lines with debris and even damage the high pressure pump.
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Feb 20th, 2020, 10:35 | #3 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 02:41
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Groningen
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Partner?
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Feb 20th, 2020, 16:45 | #4 |
mr
Last Online: Feb 26th, 2020 23:00
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: middlesbrough
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lol yes its true was girlfriend ...... still have the same problem have codes now 6805 boost pressure control and 1200 IAT signal to high.
Could be boost sensor? or boost control valve? |
Feb 21st, 2020, 11:48 | #5 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 02:41
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Groningen
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Check the fuel filter for contamination of the faulty pump or other filth (or replace it anyway)and make sure every other parallel problem of faultcodes is resolved
And check the fuelpressure of the liftpump alone. Boost pressure can be anything from lack of vacuum on the vnt to leaking intercooler or leaking rubber from the silencer. intercoolers can be checked with a plugged can in one side and another in the other connected hose with a drinkflask cap wich a bicycle pump with manometer is connected Also when there is a major boostleak the maf sensor throws a code because of the mismatch in measured airmass (more measured than used) In that case the airmass meter isnt the cause but the symptom and not faulty And check the sensors and connections with a multimeter first Last edited by 5cilinder; Feb 21st, 2020 at 12:04. |
Feb 26th, 2020, 12:25 | #6 |
mr
Last Online: Feb 26th, 2020 23:00
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: middlesbrough
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D5
Well checked most things but could not find the cause, vacuum was good pipes all intact. problem became worse, car would only run for 30 sec and stop.
Local Volvo specialist has had car for couple of days. High pressure pump would only run for a min before stopping. Though it was the sender/control unit. However direct live feed into pump still would only run for a min ad stop so some issue with the pump. Also the control unit itself is not working as it should. So quoted new pump £400 plus fitting etc and New sender/ control unit for one of these £788. Looks like my poor Volvo is done after driving it for 13yrs and 200k. |
Feb 26th, 2020, 13:45 | #7 |
mr
Last Online: Feb 26th, 2020 23:00
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: middlesbrough
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been to the garage and spoke with the mechanic there. Its not the High pressure pump, its the in tank pump that keeps stopping even with a direct feed. The control unit is in fact the CEM fuse box that is not sending t the pump. They have tried changing the relays but with no result.
I am now thinking just get CEM module from ebay and change pump?? Might work |
Feb 26th, 2020, 14:43 | #8 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 02:41
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Location: Groningen
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Dude ask your volvo dealer they clearly know best with the flowcharts en hefty bills
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Feb 26th, 2020, 14:54 | #9 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 02:41
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Groningen
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You checked "most things"
It seems like erratic trial and error , Everything needs to be checked in a methodicly manor Electric fuelpump, mechanical liftpump check the pressure of both with a manometer , check the fuelfilter and inspect for metal debris in filter.... check the fuelpressure regulator and pressure sensor on the fuelrail both on resistance and the connector/wires If thats all ok check the fuel corrections on the injectors . Good luck |
Feb 26th, 2020, 16:38 | #10 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 07:56
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Preston
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My in-tank pump failed intermittently and gradually got worse. It would log a low fuel pressure code (can't remember what off hand, but it'll be on the forum somewhere), however the code wasn't stored after ignition off, it had to be read whilst in 'limp mode' with the fault active.
I put a brand new pump in (about £300 a few years ago) and the car was transformed, however you need to be absolutely certain it is the fault before chucking this much money at it. It's in the realms of a DIY job, although a little smelly it's not hard once you get the tank caps opened. Run the fuel tank as low as possible though to make the job easier if DIY'ing. |
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