cam suppliers

[morwenna240]

Who are those people who have a large range of cams for B20's? Not VP.

[amazon69]

Kg Trimning

[amazon69]

Better link.

[Burdekin]

KG is excellent and got my latest one from Ben who owns tinnus tuning in the Netherlands excellent as well. Ben has a big range of cams he's designed and I think he is still developing stuff which is cool.

[morwenna240]

Ah oui. Thanks, u 2.

[142 Guy]

Originally Posted by Burdekin

KG is excellent and got my latest one from Ben who owns tinnus tuning in the Netherlands excellent as well. Ben has a big range of cams he's designed and I think he is still developing stuff which is cool.

Which Tinus cam did you end up with? TT is the only vendor that I am aware of that is using different lobe profiles for the intakes and exhausts on some of their cams. I have never figured out why some vendors think that the intake and exhaust should have different profiles except to save on production cost.

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by 142 Guy

Which Tinus cam did you end up with? TT is the only vendor that I am aware of that is using different lobe profiles for the intakes and exhausts on some of their cams. I have never figured out why some vendors think that the intake and exhaust should have different profiles except to save on production cost.

Just the baby one, TT3. My engine is a B20A and am keeping the single Stromberg for originality and it works well. I was just after a wee refresh and improved acceleration so the new cam, a lightened flywheel and a thinner head gasket is what I went for. Ben didn’t recommend lowering the CR any more with the A engine. I wasn’t chasing top end HP, the car can do 90plus mph which is fine and improving acceleration without having to Rev the guts out of the engine was what I wanted to improve.

[Burdekin]

Also a guy I know has a Tinus Tuning built NA engine. Think it is stroked but not 100% sure from memory and it's not quite 200hp. What I was impressed with is it seems like a very useable street engine. Other high powered B20s just seem like they would be horrible street engines but he is very please with his. I however don't know what he paid for it and assume it wouldn't be cheap.

[Burdekin]

Some info Ben gave me and attached what I bought for my wee upgrade:

"Regarding B20B head of skimming you current head for compression: The TT3 has very good filling capacities which translates to good torque. Since the filling of the cylinders is good, you should not have a too high compression ratio. If you do, you’ll risc pinging or engine knock. So my advise is to stick with the B20A head and just use the thin head gasket that will be in the shipment. The stock B20A head gasket is 2,0mm while this one is 0,85mm. Imho this will raise you compression ratio a bit but not far enough to get engine knock. If you do want to seek the limits in regards to compression ratio, you should aim for a 9 : 1 compression ratio or 9,5 : 1 max."

"Regarding neelde for the Stromberg: There are quite a few needle to choose from. Hoever, every engine is different. Best would be to run your current needle and see if it has any flat spots at a certain rpm or so. Preferably done with an onboard Lambda meter, or on a rolling road. That way you can tell where the engine needs more or less fuel. Then you can start comparing your current neelde with other ones. I can help you with that if needed as I have the data of just about all needles. Having said that; I think you might find the stock needle to be quite okay."

"Stage 1 head: Yes, such a head will give extra flow in whole rpm range. Further ported head will mainly improve higher rpm rang. So with your setup (Stromberg and TT3 cam) I would choose just a Phase 1 head, 42mm intake valve, 37mm exhaust. The E-head flows well but has too big intake ports for your setup. The air velocity will be down at low rpm, causing loss of torque. "

"A phase 1 head with new valves and guide, hardened exhaust seats, new freeze plugs, stock valve springs, surfaced, also on manifold face, blasted and painted, is about 1000,- euro incl VAT give or take a few Euro depending on exact specs. This included the core charge. My personal advice: If your current head is in good shape, just run that. Ofcourse I’d like to sell you a head, but the 1000,- is quite a lot of money for just 5 or 10 hp. Most of the 1000,- is for the full rebuild + core charge, and only 200,- or so is for the upgrade to Phase 1."

[Burdekin]

Apparently Ben is working on a 2.6l stroked B20.