H7 Projector removal

[Tiggur]

Hi all, I'm hoping someone can help. 2011 V50 RDesign

My dip H7 lights have become so bad I cant use it at night. I have read many threads on how to remove these units but mine are different, you can only get at two of the screws, the third is almost hidden behind the electric motor!


Ideally I wanted to fit a couple of E46 replacement projectors and some good bulbs but at this rate I'll have to just fit new headlights.

Thanks in advance

Update: It gets worse, PFS can't supply RHD units and Volvo want £550, not a good day.

[Welton]

That '3rd torx screw' only really affects one of the headlights (can't remember which) but it's normally un-doable at an angle, I use a torx bit on the end of a screwdriver style bit-holder it's a bit awkward at first and stuff starts to flex a little but if you were using allen key torxs it probably would be difficult.

Be careful as you undo the screws they shower the insides of the units with plastic dust so try to tip them up so the dusts falls out of the access door first.

[andy_d]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fsrwtt02sz...retro.pdf?dl=0

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...12#post2255512

yes the 3rd torx is not easy, yes you have to fiddle it
id add to LoB's Guide "use a magnetic tool or magnet on a stick when taking that 3rd torx out to save it going Tinkle into the unit when you get it undone "

[Sidonas]

If the adjusters are working, you can use the left-right adjuster to fully 'reveal' the third screw.

[Tiggur]

Thanks for the help chaps.

While we're on the headlight subject because there dosen't seem to be a huge selection of H9 upgrade bulbs has anyone changed the high beam from H9 to H7.

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by Tiggur

Thanks for the help chaps.

While we're on the headlight subject because there dosen't seem to be a huge selection of H9 upgrade bulbs has anyone changed the high beam from H9 to H7.

H9 has higher wattage output than H7 so in high-beam application it would be a downgrade... however I get what you are sayinfg ref selection (just checked out of curiosity and WTH, only some odd cool boost OSram available or some other generic stuff?). Odd... Been using my Osram NB LAser in high beams since ever, now I am worried what to replace them with when those give up.

BTW H11 is much closer to H9 than H7 is, maybe its worth exploring? Its also L shaped and is very easy to modify the connector pin, but its less power output.

[Tiggur]

Only H9's I've found are these but the wattage is higher,I wonder if they would damage the reflectors

https://www.hids4u.co.uk/h9-upgrade-headlight-bulbs/

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by Tiggur

Only H9's I've found are these but the wattage is higher,I wonder if they would damage the reflectors

https://www.hids4u.co.uk/h9-upgrade-headlight-bulbs/

Yea, thats the ones I was referring to - wouldnt worry about 75W vs 65W, thats nothing and its only for long beams used sporadically (unless you drive 8h every night trough arctic roads? :>). I would put 100W if I had one, never too much wattage for long beams.
Im only concerned about the "blue boost" thing, not a fan of "fake xenon look" but on other hand its OSRAM so its usually a good bulbs they do. Maybe that tint will make them pure white instead of hint of yellow, worth a shot.

[SanPhire]

I think this job's tougher on the facelifted headlights - but I've done it (and maybe redo the job once a year for the MOT, but I couldn't possibly comment). I've got a ton of photos somewhere... But not to hand...
Magnetic bits to keep the screws disappearing is useful for your sanity, and so is a flexible extension for your bit driver.
At the top of the projector carrier is a small white plastic guide pin. If you undo that and remove it (single torx screw) then the projector carrier is much freer and you can shift it to expose the torx screw with out futzing with the adjustors (useful because mine are knackered). There's another point where a torx screw holes it to a hinge mechanism that's easy to get at, again removing that just makes the whole thing easier to move.
Once free, you've just got the fun of wrangling the old projector out and the new one in, the cables get in the way a lot - I usually need a little Enya playing in the background to get the job done.
I've got the Retrofit D2S E46 projectors and can't get the rear cover back on so jury-rig a dust cover with some plastic film and duct tape. Classy. I think I might have had to Dremel a corner off the new projectors to stop it scraping up against the indicator housing.
Finally, obvs, white LED in the City Light strip.

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by SanPhire

...
I've got the Retrofit D2S E46 projectors and can't get the rear cover back on so jury-rig a dust cover with some plastic film and duct tape. Classy. I think I might have had to Dremel a corner off the new projectors to stop it scraping up against the indicator housing.
Finally, obvs, white LED in the City Light strip.

Is the problem in closing the cover caused by the packed ballasts in headlamps or its physically back of the bulb with connector protruding too far? In my case, L-shaped D2S connector is touching the back of the rear cover but is possible to close properly after I modified the rear cover a bit (cut out some plastic supports). Plus I did a hole to pull out cables to external ballasts.
I would try to modify cover asap as you really dont want to trust that "dust cover" too long, its more for rain/water protection than dust that I would be worry about.
As for taking the projectors out for MOT - nah, going trough the hassle of realligning lights etc? - do yourself a favour and get cheapest used set of OEM lamps from scrapper and just replace them once a year