Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > S40 / V40 '96-'04 General

Notices

S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004.

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Warning , S40/V40 4 cylinder petrol owners.

Views : 256023

Replies : 195

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Aug 23rd, 2015, 16:09   #171
Miketwovolvos
Miketwovolvos
 

Last Online: Jun 5th, 2022 14:54
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Birmingham
Default clip replacement

if the motor is completely cold, you might get away with winding out the clip all the way, then cutting it pliers and then buying a Jubilee clip that allows you to open it fully...
Miketwovolvos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 23rd, 2015, 17:25   #172
kieran40
I've Been Banned
 

Last Online: Mar 4th, 2023 13:36
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: paignton
Default

Sorted my rubbing calipers out today no more noise.

But need to get back under tommorow and bleed the brakes properly as they are a bit spongy but they work

Last edited by kieran40; Aug 23rd, 2015 at 17:29.
kieran40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 4th, 2016, 13:57   #173
Garystrick
New Member
 

Last Online: Jul 5th, 2016 17:18
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Croydon
Default

Thanks for the info.
I've got a 2003 and I was planning to flush the coolant soon anyway. I'll do the clips too now
:thumbsup:
Garystrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 8th, 2016, 21:41   #174
FastBricks
Volvo invented seatbelts
 

Last Online: Jun 11th, 2018 02:19
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: london
Unhappy Has anyone seen one of these? In over my head?!

Stupid question maybe but I removed the cam position sensor on the right hand side of the engine (facing the car) so that would be UK passenger side. I was expecting to just see an end of the camshaft for the VVT side so I could insert the cam locking jig. Instead I see this (picture):


What is it?
Can I remove it by undoing the nut in its centre?
If I do so will this move my cams or anything else out of position?

I'm really stuck and cant get the car back together as I am scared of messing this bit up.

Once I lock the cams I will be able to release the belt and VVT pulley so I can put the new pulley on.


Thanks

Attached Images
File Type: jpg image1.jpg (278.7 KB, 38 views)
FastBricks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 8th, 2016, 22:35   #175
Clan
Experienced Member
 
Clan's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 22:26
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: L/H side
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FastBricks View Post
Stupid question maybe but I removed the cam position sensor on the right hand side of the engine (facing the car) so that would be UK passenger side. I was expecting to just see an end of the camshaft for the VVT side so I could insert the cam locking jig. Instead I see this (picture):


What is it?
Can I remove it by undoing the nut in its centre?
If I do so will this move my cams or anything else out of position?

I'm really stuck and cant get the car back together as I am scared of messing this bit up.

Once I lock the cams I will be able to release the belt and VVT pulley so I can put the new pulley on.


Thanks

you have to take that off too , it is the toothed wheel that generates pulses . behind is the off set slot which you put the cam locking tool into BUT you also need to get the plastic cap out of the back of the exhaust cam too , the tool fits into BOTH camshafts to lock them in the correct position . You will need a new plastic cap too as they are destroyed removing them .
__________________
My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .
Clan is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Clan For This Useful Post:
Old Jul 9th, 2016, 14:24   #176
FastBricks
Volvo invented seatbelts
 

Last Online: Jun 11th, 2018 02:19
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: london
Default

Thank you. I tried undoing the nut and at the moment it clicks and moves the sensor position hub in the photo attached to the end of the cam but does not come unstuck.

I have applied WD40 and left it over night while I build the camshaft locking tool. I will try again to release it again today.

I was going over the Haynes book and it mentions removing the auxiliary belt before removing the timing belt (under the timing belt change instructions).

As I am only changing the VVT (the belt was changed last year), if I lock the cams and I just want to move the timing belt off a little from the old VVT pulley so I can fit the new VVT pulley in its place, isn't it unnecessary to remove the auxiliary belt?

Also does the auxiliary belt need to be marked and timed with the timing belt? To me it seem s like the aux belt can be removed and reinstalled without any big concern for its positioning apart from its routing. Provided the crank shaft does not move out of position while I work on the cams I suspect there shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks for your answer by the way, I was stuck, so you made my day. I think I might actually be able to pull this repair off now
FastBricks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Feb 23rd, 2017, 16:45   #177
D4B
New Member
 

Last Online: Jun 28th, 2017 17:28
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Portsmouth
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clan View Post
In the last 6 weeks i have seen 2 engines wrecked by the lower radiator hose leaking coolant .
The cause is the hose clip around the lower radiator hose on the radiator end , the clip goes rusty and breaks , the pressure in the system ( 20 + psi ) will then blow the hose off and your coolant is gone in a matter of a couple of seconds .
Check those hose clips .......
Hi All,

Newbie on here, having just bought a 52 plate V40. Very nice car it is too...

First article I have read on here is this one, so off I went and dropped the undertray, and sure enough, despite the car having an extensive garage service history, there it was, yet another rusty bottom hose clip!



Amazingly, I managed to unscrew it, (after removing the expansion bottle cap to reduce any pressure)



It was very rusted and probs about 500 miles from snapping....





As mine was already a thicker jubilee clip I was able to replace it with a Jubilee 2A which saved me a trip to Ovlov.



Great forum, thankyou

PS are these subframes always this rusty?
D4B is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to D4B For This Useful Post:
Old Mar 16th, 2017, 17:16   #178
bimmer49
Always listen & learn!
 
bimmer49's Avatar
 

Last Online: Mar 13th, 2023 20:32
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Winchester + Malaga
Default

Nice job eh FastBricks?

One I have to do myself. I have replaced my timing belt before before but my VVT is noisy.
IIRC I locked both pulleys using screwdrivers wedged in through the pulleys. Perfick.

On this operation it may be possible to remove the top cam cover only without disturbing the aux belt so long as you can get to the cam tensioner to de tension/retention it after the job. I was going to lock the inlet cam with the screw driver method again but I don't know if the VVT pulley is under tension when the belt is slackened and it may move one tooth or more. So with that in mind I will have to remove the back plastic cover and somehow just lock the exhaust cam. Then I can undo the VVT. As the new VVT can be put back on in any position it's only critical nothing moves.

So in my opinion removal of the inlet cam cover is not necessary. Lock the front end!

I can't do my job yet as I don't have a plastic rear of cam cover.

Good luck.
__________________
264 V8 5.0L
V40 BiFuel, she's gone, she's dead......Oh well!
bimmer49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Apr 1st, 2017, 00:46   #179
allswede
PC49
 
allswede's Avatar
 

Last Online: Aug 31st, 2020 11:23
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: SHAW LANCS
Default Allswede

Quote:
Originally Posted by manoman48 View Post
i own a '98 T4 so guess this applies to me. Can the clips be replaced without having to drop the coolant?



jUST TAKEN THE ENGINE COVER (UNDERNEATH) OFF, THE BOTTOM HOSE WAS VERY RUSTY AND READY FOR BREAKING TOOK THE CLIP OFF THE HOSE RENEWED WITH S/S CLIP. WITHOUT DROPPING THE COOLANT
allswede is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to allswede For This Useful Post:
Old Sep 12th, 2017, 21:13   #180
borland
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Nov 13th, 2019 23:49
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Warrington
Default

my beloved T4 has died because of this bloody rusty clip at the bottom hose. could not stop quickly enough on the M60 (it was not safe) so cooked my engine. it looked OK after the AA guy replaced the clip and put some water in the cooling system. drove back home, replaced the oil and coolant. then - mayo in the coolant, overheating, lose of coolant etc.
borland is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:05.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.