Suspension: Nsr rear trailing arm bush replacement advice

[12345]

Hi

I had a advisory on my last service that the nsr rear trailing arm bush is starting to separate.

Can the bush be replaced by its self or does it need a new arm ?
And is it a long job to do and will it need a bench press to replace ?

Thanks

[Tannaton]

Originally Posted by 12345

Hi

I had a advisory on my last service that the nsr rear trailing arm bush is starting to separate.

Can the bush be replaced by its self or does it need a new arm ?
And is it a long job to do and will it need a bench press to replace ?

Thanks

The forward bush is actually set into the subframe and the I'm fairly certain that the rear bush is set into the hub casting. It's usually the forward bush to fall apart first and it can be a sod to do but it is possible if have access to (or make) the correct kit.

Remove the old bush by cutting out the rubber (I used a electric jig saw to do this) and then put a cut in the metal sleeve that remains so it can be removed easily (I used a electric reciprocating saw to do this but you could use a hacksaw) take care not to cut into the subframe.

To push the new one in requires considerable force - I used a M12 threaded rod and a 52mm socket (land rover hub nut size) on the bush end - at the other end I made a spacer by bending some 1" 3mm bar around the 52mm socket and welding it up to make a circular spacer, and then some flat bar at the end (about 5 bits welded together). I also sprayed plenty of teflon spray on the bush and seat. That setup worked well but it was slow going and I didn't think I was far off stripping the thread on the 19mm nut as I tightened it. I will try and post a pic of this set up at the weekend.

[MisterWooley]

XC90, 2.4 D5 Auto 2004
I have just done this very job on my XC90. I made my own removal tool and with that and a little careful preparation this tough job is easily doable. The hard bit is facing up to the challenge having had the job refused by my local workshop (special tooling required) and a very expensive quote from my local Volvo dealer (old car, very tight bushes, seized bolts).

Tannaton is correct in that the front (large) bush is fitted in the subframe and has to be pressed out on the vehicle.

I have video and some pics but not had time to write up yet. I won't have time until next week. If you are desperate private message me and I'll put up the raw footage on Dropbox and send you a link.

[MisterWooley]

Just a taster.
This is the first side. New bush almost home.

[Ducklakeview]

As an aside, for those of you that have done this, would one of these kits have done the job?

Mike

[MisterWooley]

Yes, Mike. I think that kit would probably do the job. Without knowing the sizes of the components cannot be certain.

From my experience the key point is that the pusher fits the bush on its outer diameter but must also fit inside the holder. For the rear trailing arm the bush is 60.00mm diameter. The pusher therefore needs to be about 59.00mm. The pusher I made has a recess to ensure that it is located correctly.

Even more important is the receiver. It needs to have an inside diameter of about 62.00mm. If it is looser then there is a risk of the subframe ears getting bent. This happened to me with my home made tool. I had to modify mine.

Once both the receiver and pusher are snugly fitted the pressure exerted by the threaded rod will be focussed in line with the axis of the bush and therefore be more effective.

Richard

[Tannaton]

Originally Posted by Ducklakeview

As an aside, for those of you that have done this, would one of these kits have done the job?

Mike

Aren't they expensive though? I looked at one in Machine Mart and it was crica £250. Couldn't find anything on e-bay.

[Tannaton]

Originally Posted by MisterWooley

Tannaton is correct in that the front (large) bush is fitted in the subframe and has to be pressed out on the vehicle.

.

I found the easiest way to get the old bushes out was to cut the rubber out of the metal sleeve using an electric jigsaw (if you don't have one you could drill lots of holes and then cut the bridges with a wood chisel) and then put a cut in the metal sleeve using a reciprocating saw (or you could use a hacksaw if you fit the blade to it after sliding it through the sleeve. Taking care not to cut into the subframe, as soon as there was a cut in the sleeve it feel out.

This takes 5-10 mins a side.

[TruckbusUK]

Originally Posted by Tannaton

Aren't they expensive though? I looked at one in Machine Mart and it was crica £250. Couldn't find anything on e-bay.

About £90'ish .... cant vouch for them, but I'd guess lots of "brand" management going on ... dread to think what Sealey or Teng or even Snap-On may charge .....

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00E0BEC0...4XR7NRV8FMXQ8A

[MisterWooley]

Tannaton, I expected to have to cut out the old bushes. I even bought a reciprocating saw especially for the bush removal. Next week it goes back still unopened
The technique I used for removal was:
1. Clean all around the bush where it touches the subframe
2. Heat the bush with small blowlamp (I use my plumbing blowlamp but map gas would have been better.
3. Apply wd40 to the joint between subframe and bush
4. Use my tool as described above.
5. Bush slides out easily using a standard racket socket.

On the second side I used my cordless impact driver at step 5. That really did make removal easy!

I was impressed with how you made your spacer. I have welder and strip steel but it never occurred to me to fabricate it.