The Joy Of 240's, with issues...

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by CosmicBike

Well 45 minutes under Grace this morning has confirmed that the author if a very good guide on how to change the clutch (Mike Brace in the articles section) is indeed correct, you need some wobbe bars to get to certainly one of the top bellhousing bolts. Managed to crack one of the pair with a few extensions and a UJ, but no chance of getting the second. Back for attempt 2 after borrowing or buying a set.
I reckon Volvo were in the parts bin for these late ones. The lower bellhousing bolts are 14mm, the upper are 18mm. Weirdos.

Hello.

Wobble bars are a worthwhile part of the toolkit.

My first use of my first wobble bar was to rescue a friend changing his wife's Mini Metro clutch master cylinder.
She did not stop laughing at the expression wobble bar. Bless ....

Most recently, a wobble bar makes a 240 bonnet hinge change easy. Just to get the socketry in to position quickly efficiently &c.

My set are 3/8 drive. Most of my routine socketry is 3/8. It is a drive size famously good for access, and covers a surprisingly huge range of socket sizes.

Mine are actually locking wobbles. Pricey yes but holding their second hand value and up to the job when needed. If a fixing is difficult to get at without wobble, it becomes even more frustrating if the extension withdraws leaving the socket on the fixing, or the socket falling in to wherever. EEK

Stephen



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[Bob Meadows]

This may also help:~

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ght=240+clutch

Bob.

[CosmicBike]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

This may also help:~

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ght=240+clutch

Bob.

Thanks for that, a little extra detail.

One question, did you remove any engine mounts? The guide by Mike refers to them, but I think he means the gearbox cross member mount at the rear of the 'box?

[Bob Meadows]

No- engine mounts left in place- quite new with plenty of flex-- you are limited as the engine will touch the bulkhead , just removed the gearbox mount & cross member.

Whilst the box was out I took the opportunity to change the oil again-although it had been done fairly recently (Type F for this one) The other reason being that I could get the extra fill whilst the box was on its side- recommended for the 5 speed box.

Good Luck
Regards Bob.

[CosmicBike]

A quick half hour tea break from work and had another go at the top bellhousing bolt. Even with a few wobble bars I wasn't happy that I was properly 'on' the bolt, so I'll wait until I have the crossmember off. Whist I was there I test cracked all the bolts I need to remove, just one of the starter motor bolt to revisit when I get time.
Gear lever came off easy enough, so I am getting somewhere!

[Bob Meadows]

I used the normal bars & heads supplied with socket sets- cross member removed- gearbox mounting rubber removed and the propshaft moved to one side once off the G/box—marked with tippex for reinstatement & balance.

Lower the engine & box to its lowest point you can by watching the limited clearance on the bulkhead as the unit moves down—trolley jack under the rear of the box will allow this.

From under the car slide the socket with extensions towards the appropriate bolts- I found this a lot easier from the exhaust pipe side rather that the starter motor side, from memory I removed the exhaust downpipe support if you have one fitted but no need to disturb anything else.

It’s working blind at times but I’m sure you will manage it.
Regards Bob.

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

No- engine mounts left in place- quite new with plenty of flex-- you are limited as the engine will touch the bulkhead ,

Watch what it might be crushing at that point - electrical connectors, pipes etc.

Be certain that the engine mounts really are in good condition, not just looking OK.
I once had mounts that looked fine but the forwards force as the engine balanced against the bulkhead ripped the brackets from the rubber and the engine slid forwards off its mountings. Nightmare - especially if you are underneath.


PS. Release the exhaust pipe from the manifold, as well as the support bracket.

[CosmicBike]

Well it's out. Biggest issue was 27 year old bolts that haven't been touched, splitting the propshaft from the output was the tight part, ended up using a 2nd jack to crack those bolts off!
Single handed to get it out, rope through the shifter opening and a jack under the bellhousing made life easier, definitely going to be harder to get back in.
Rear main seal is leaking as evidenced by a copious amount of oil in the bellhousing and upon removing the flywheel.
Also have a leak from the back of the gearbox, seemed to be coming from one of the mounting holes but might be due to an overfill at some point, I'll take a closer look another day.
Old oil out, like coffee, so defo no good. Had a quick go at getting the fill plug out with no luck, so going to have to get inventive with that...

[Bob Meadows]

Well done: ~ regarding the drain & filler plugs- these are notorious for being difficult to remove, I’m convinced Volvo used Loctite on these or similar.

With this in mind apply heat from a gas gun/camper gas type direct to the plug- this will break the bond between the box & plug, doesn’t need a lot of heat. Use a tight fitting socket and it should move.

Both plugs are worth having a hex nut welded to the ends ready for the next oil change or next owner! Oil from the back of the box could just be because the same has been tilted more than normal? I found the same so removed a bolt and used gasket seal red hermetite – the box was overfilled as previously mentioned (Type F oil for this one) but once back in the normal position it remains dry.
Regards Bob.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by CosmicBike

Well it's out. Biggest issue was 27 year old bolts that haven't been touched, splitting the propshaft from the output was the tight part, ended up using a 2nd jack to crack those bolts off!
Single handed to get it out, rope through the shifter opening and a jack under the bellhousing made life easier, definitely going to be harder to get back in.
Rear main seal is leaking as evidenced by a copious amount of oil in the bellhousing and upon removing the flywheel.
Also have a leak from the back of the gearbox, seemed to be coming from one of the mounting holes but might be due to an overfill at some point, I'll take a closer look another day.
Old oil out, like coffee, so defo no good. Had a quick go at getting the fill plug out with no luck, so going to have to get inventive with that...

Well done... good thread.
Alan