V70: Engine D5 E5 belts etc

[reggit]

Just put a deposit down on a V70 D5 with the euro 5 205bhp engine. It’s due an aux belt change and has an obvious squeak from one of the pulleys. Cam belt is 50k miles old, but the service book says water pump changed at the same time (137k miles), but not what make. - worries me that a cheap one may have been used.

As the car will be a keeper, I think I’ll want to get the water pump changed for a new genuine one, so may as well do the cam belt and tensioners at the same time as the aux belt.

Are these jobs in the realms of a competent DIYer? And will I need any special tools for the cam belt? Thinking cam locking tool or similar here.

Ta.

[john493]

You're in the same boat as me Reggit, I bought a 2010 V70 205 last week, a manual though.

AFAIK, you will just need the crankshaft holding tool to get the big nut off. There are two aux belts on these, both come in the kit from Volvopartstrade ebay shop.
John

[XC70Virgin]

Water pump is only accessible during timing belt change. It's not on aux belt. Water pumps are really good quality and won't need changing before your scheduled change in all likelihood unless a cheap job has been fitted as you suspect. Aux belt change is simple but also change tensioner pulley with it as a precaution. Get a Volvo one even if a bit pricey. You don't want to be rummaging through the timing case just to get at the water pump at some stage in the future. Also check a Volvo belt, pulley and idler were fitted and not some after market stuff.

Pulley holding tool is advisable for timing belt change but I managed without. Impact wrench is your friend here. Other than holding tool, which is relatively cheap, nothing special required other than patience and a swear box.

Do a search on this forum and you'll find some useful information. Also YouTube for SiRobb although his is the older engine principles are the same. Newer engines need top engine mount removing as well so a jack under the engine is required.

[XC70Virgin]

Originally Posted by john493

You're in the same boat as me Reggit, I bought a 2010 V70 205 last week, a manual though.

AFAIK, you will just need the crankshaft holding tool to get the big nut off. There are two aux belts on these, both come in the kit from Volvopartstrade ebay shop.
John

Not quite: one 1 aux belt. The other is a small belt to drive the a/c compressor only and does not need scheduled changing. Its stretched on and will last years unless the pulley on the compressor gives.

[Montana]

Originally Posted by XC70Virgin

Not quite: one 1 aux belt. The other is a small belt to drive the a/c compressor only and does not need scheduled changing. Its stretched on and will last years unless the pulley on the compressor gives.

The air con belt is stretch fit and will need replacing if it’s removed (which it needs to be to do the cambelt/ aux belt). It’s a £10 part so not worth bothering about.

[XC70Virgin]

Originally Posted by Montana

The air con belt is stretch fit and will need replacing if it’s removed (which it needs to be to do the cambelt/ aux belt). It’s a £10 part so not worth bothering about.

No it doesn't need to be removed. It's behind the aux belt and does not impact or interfere in its replacement. At least not on 185 PS engine. Newer 205 engine may be slightly different in this respect.

[Olaf Els]

Originally Posted by reggit

.......
Are these jobs in the realms of a competent DIYer? And will I need any special tools for the cam belt? Thinking cam locking tool or similar here.

Ta.

The answer is that yes a competent DIYer will be able to do the job. You will need a locking tool for the crank pulley (the cam pulley remains in place) and also a torque wrench goes up to 300Nm for replacing the crank pulley bolt. Access to the pulleys and tensioners is very restricted as there is limited space between the engine and the inner wheel arch.

There are videos on YouTube which I found very helpful indeed. Also this thread: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=265236

The service manual shows the use of a special tool for replacing the aircon stretch belt. They aren't available and aren't really necessary. This is what I wrote on another thread:
" Working from the wheel arch, place the belt on the smaller of the two upper pulleys. This is normally for the ancilliary belt. As the belt isn't tight, you will be able to get at least one V into a groove right around the lower pulley as you rotate it clockwise. Now get your head under the car, and use a small pry-bar on the edge of the belt to lever the belt onto the lower pulley as you rotate it. Once you've got a couple of Vs in the lower pulley, turn your attention to the upper pulley and push the edge of the belt towards the engine block as you continue to rotate. This will force the belt over the raised ridge between the two pulleys and onto the correct inner pulley. Now simply keep working on one pulley then the other, moving the belt by one groove/ridge each time on each pulley. After a few minutes the belt will be properly seated on both pulleys."

On the D5 205 engine replacing the water pump is an absolute pig of a job because a) there are diesel supply/return lines that run in front of it and b) the inner cambelt cover needs to be removed. This means taking off the cam pulley, and locking pins should be used for this job. I attempted to change the water pump on mine, but gave up. It was a Volvo original so it was probably the right thing to do.

[reggit]

Thanks Olaf,

I’ve just got the car home and checked the paperwork. It didn’t have the water pump done at the cambelt change. So just the aux belt and pulleys to do.

I wasn’t fancying the water pump after reading your post!

[Olaf Els]

Originally Posted by reggit

Thanks Olaf,

I’ve just got the car home and checked the paperwork. It didn’t have the water pump done at the cambelt change. So just the aux belt and pulleys to do.

I wasn’t fancying the water pump after reading your post!

Yes, best left alone. I got myself in the very awkward position of having the pump loose but not removable because of the obstructions. The gasket had become damaged during the removal process so I had to get between the mating surfaces to clean them up and then get the new gasket in. I was very pleasantly surprised when I refilled the coolant and it didn't leak at all!

I hope the job goes well for you.

PS I've you've got access to a big impact wrench it makes the removal of the crank pulley bolt much easier.

[reggit]

Originally Posted by Olaf Els

Yes, best left alone. I got myself in the very awkward position of having the pump loose but not removable because of the obstructions. The gasket had become damaged during the removal process so I had to get between the mating surfaces to clean them up and then get the new gasket in. I was very pleasantly surprised when I refilled the coolant and it didn't leak at all!

I hope the job goes well for you.

PS I've you've got access to a big impact wrench it makes the removal of the crank pulley bolt much easier.

The cam belt is fine, about 40,000 miles and 4 years old - the seller told me the water pump was done at the same time, this worried me as I know not to touch the water pumps unless they are leaking. Now I’ve had chance to inspect The car and paperwork properly, I can tell that this is erroneous. I will be leaving the cambelt alone now until it’s due.
The aux belt had a squeak when I viewed the car, sounding like a tired pulley, it’s stopped now but I’ll attend to this belt and pulleys in the near future.