She is alive! But have a couple of issues with 544

[lelshaddai]

OK, so the 544 is alive and kicking!!! That is the good news. For now I just went with the points. I will finish the conversion later. She runs well but needs valve lash adjusted and timing. She has a slight miss.

Now the questions: I am having trouble deciding whether the temp gauge is accurate and if she is running hot. The first pic is after she ran down the street and around a little bit. She was still running when I took the reading. Today it was 108F degrees. My temp reader is pointed at the top of the temp sensor. The inside gauge reads almost far right. That got me a bit concerned. However when the temp is at about 200F the gauge is at the second line. How do I set the temp gauge correctly or is this reading correctly? Also you can see the temps at the water neck and block. Is there reason for concern. I am running 50/50 antifreeze/water. The engine is a B20B.



Second question:
I installed a new clutch. No install complications. I have the mechanical linkages. They were a little worn down but I repaired them. The pedal has about 3/8-1/2 inch of play. The clutch still does not engage until the 3/4 mark on the pedal. All works well except 2nd gear. It now grinds going into it whether the upshift or downshift. All other gears are fine and it did not do this before the new clutch and seals and gaskets. Is this a clutch adjustment issue? The adjustment is almost all the way out to get the pedal play correct. It is an M4. Will this work its way out since it is new?

[arcturus]

can you please clarify which gauge you have, Is it the ether filled or the electrical sender? Re gears, check that the big nut holding the gear lever is screwed fully down also if it is pull the lever out and check that the large bush into which it fits doesn't have too much wear.

[lelshaddai]

I do not know on the gauge. It has a tube about 3/8 inch in diameter and 1 1/2 long that goes down into the head. But it has a wire not a tube that goes to the gauge. It came from a 63 with a B18.

The linkage was worn on the clutch. There were major worn grooves in the three contact spots. I had to weld and build them back up and grind and round them out. The area that has the thrust link no longer has a bushing on the plate. It is a nut welded on that has been bored out and the shaft slips into it. It works with a bit of bearing grease on it.

[arcturus]

This is from B16. Is it like the first one or the second one with the blue connector ?

[lelshaddai]

It looks like the first one.

[Ron Kwas]

lel...;

Congrats!...looking pretty good so far...

First picture in thread is not clear enough, but most recent one clearly shows the OE Sensing Bulb with protective overbraid on the capillary tube going to Gauge. This is NOT a wire! Be extremely careful with it or you will compromise it and render it into scrap.

Temp indicated does look on the high side, but it could simply be due to a "generous Gauge"...remember: Temp is primarily controlled by Tstat...what is temp of Tstat installed? ...it should be a 162Deg (Summer) or 182Deg (Winter, likely not necessary in Arizona!), and if either one of those is installed, you're probably OK and not overheating, but you may want to (should) check calibration of your Gauge, to give you confidence in accuracy of gauge indication. See: http://www.sw-em.com/temperature_gauge_notes.htm

Others, more experienced with the linkage activated Clutch will have to help with that, but it does sound like too much free-play...and don't forget: Clutch is engaged (locking Gearbox input shaft to Crankshaft) when no force is applied to Pedal/Throwout Bearing...this would certainly explain grinding when going into second gear...because Clutch is not fully dis-engaging and engine is continuing to turn input shaft, making Synchro work harder.

Good Hunting!

[lelshaddai]

That 234 temp was only at the sensor. If you look the head near the cylinders was 205 and the area near the tstat was only 178. Could it be a bubble or just a hot spot? I am working on timing and valve lash today.

[Ron Kwas]

Gentlemen, Burp your Cooling Systems!

[lelshaddai]

Best way to burp system without overflow?

[Ron Kwas]

lel;

To burp a CS without Overflow Bottle: (Starting from cold or cool engine) With Radiator Cap removed, top up Coolant level, Start Engine and monitor Coolant level, also monitor Temp Gauge to note when Tstat open (noticeable drop in indicated temp)...squeeze Rad top hose to agitate flow, dislodge and help move bubbles along...open Heater Control Valve to allow any air trapped in Heater Core to be moved along system...monitor and top up system as air escapes due to any of these actions. Replace Rad Cap when complete...monitor Temp Gauge, and possibly repeat after a road-test. I recommend upgrading to a seal CS with Overflow Bottle.

Good Hunting!