Swirl Throttle Control Problem

[kenny37]

With the strength of the motor even if the new bolt doesnt come off its likely to snap something else. try stoping the stepper motor when it moves, youve no chance. its definately a case of over engineered this time?

[Thassos]

Kenny is spot on.. you might restore the linkage but that motor drives it very hard in each direction metal vs plastic... hmm i think i know which one will snap first A simple stop with some rubber to cushion the landing is whats needed ...

[a993lad]

Okay thanks for the further advice about the stop.

Actually I tried to fabricate one before but the existing screw into the motor that someone else used to secure the stop bracket is located differently on my car so I don't think it will be as easy.

I'll try and take some pics. At least then you can see the little bolt I've used.

The bolt has been in place for a few weeks now and so far it's holding up.

Marc

[S40Rob]

[QUOTE=a993lad;1147147]Hi guys,


They checked the fault code then took a look at the throttle and say that "the control link rod is adrift due to a broken connection point on the swhirl throttle".

Apparently this broken connection will cost £700 to fix (inc vat)! Gulp!

My S40 D5 has been repaired with this fix today - quioted cost was £797 but managed to get Volvo to contribute & ended up paying £462 but I have written to Volvo customer service to have a bit of a moan & will see what they say. I previously had the repair kit fitted in November but it still keep coming disconnected & this time the seal was also leaking oil where it connects.

It does seem to be common but the dealership said XC90's are the usual culprit has they have the heaviest engine load..

Rob - S40 R-design D5

[izools]

Originally Posted by a993lad

Apparently this broken connection will cost £700 to fix (inc vat)! Gulp!

Cost me a fiver to fix mine, using the same kit you did, although from the sounds of things it's only time until that fails, too.

The only time I can see it costing more is if the flap on the crank case has actually snapped to the point of not having any plastic to secure the arm to but I think that's quite rare.

Even if that is what's happened to yours I can envisage a Heath Robinson involving perhaps a self tapper and a small piece of aluminium.

Originally Posted by a993lad

The bolt has been in place for a few weeks now and so far it's holding up.

Ahh good, you managed a similar Heath Robinson. Hope it holds up long term

[drnh]

It's a total joke and something I will be writing to Volvo UK about.

Firstly this part is an obvious design fault. It SHOULD be made of metal and NOT plastic.

I was quoted over £1000 today to repair this on my C30 D5.

Luckily my dealer quote had the part number on for the connection bar which is £4. They told me this part was not available to buy?....could be crossed wires as to which part they meant but as I saw the photo of it on his screen, as a seperate part, I knew it was available on its own.

Anyway....ordered this bar, got the bar, moved my air intake pipes, fitted the bar...job done! Engine service light went out too car is perfect.....not that I noticed it not being perfect before mind you.

Now I'm seriously going to kick off with the dealer and Volvo UK as to why this small plastic bar was not looked at during this inspection. They GUESSED it wasn't actually the connecting bar. The quote is quite ridiculous when you look at it. Basically because there "may" have been a need to take the inlet manifold off, the fuel pipes, the glow plugs, a whole host of other parts, £250 worth of software downloads and god knows how much labour made a £4 piece of plastic into a £1000 bill!!

Had I been an older person they may well have panicked me causing me to spend £1000.

Totally and utterly out of order and Volvo, you should be utterly ashamed advising your dealers to replace so many totally unnecessary parts as the 'norm' for this fix. A fix which YOU have created the need for through a design fault.

Rant over.

If you get this issue on your car buy the small plastic bar. It's probably just the end that's worn. It's a 10 minute fix.

[SteveOC]

Following this with interest - just need to relate to the car to check mine.

Steve O.

[chrisdc]

Originally Posted by Thassos

Kenny is spot on.. you might restore the linkage but that motor drives it very hard in each direction metal vs plastic... hmm i think i know which one will snap first A simple stop with some rubber to cushion the landing is whats needed ...

Just a thought guys, has anyone tried putting a resistor in series with the motors power feed? A five watt device of around 10 / 20 ohms may do it. This will current-limit the motor and reduce it's torque. I've done similar mods on electronic equipment to reduce the stress on plastic gears. As i said, just a thought.....

[Daz Newell]

drnh....where abouts are you,am in Rochdale wondered if I could have a look as I need to sort mine out.
Cheers
Daz

[ilpaninaro]

Originally Posted by Jetmech

a993lad, I tow with the rod disconnected and it seems fine to me. I have tied the swirl valves open to stop any engine messages. I believe this may mean less efficient combustion at low rpm/load but I am no expert.
I also understand that the Volvo fix involves removing the cylinder head to fit a modified shaft for the swirl valves, hence the price.

hello, I also have this problem ... "engine system required" .. how can I fix swirl valves open? Tanks!