Engine: D5244: Help save a marriage (tech question vacuum)

[R-P]

The wife is pretty po'd.

She couldn't get past 40 on her way to work today, and obviously blames me.
She could have a point, as I checked the governor, the engine-pad's relay and the connector of the PCV-heater PTC spigot thinghy yesterday.

So what did I screw up?

I may have swapped the vacuum tubes on the engine-pad-vacuum-relay (did that before I think ), but I seriously doubt this, as I didn't have them off at the same time, only consecutively.

Maybe the governor is not working due to the electrical plug not making contact or the output having been blown off. But then the lower acceleration should suffer even more than it does now, or is this standard 'on', as in when NOT energised, the vacuum is routed directly to the turbo vacuum control-arm? Then this could explain it! Maybe I can find the old governor and track its function...

The PTC heater element that heats the fumes from the PCV breather-tube just before they enter the turbo-inlet has been unhooked by me yesterday, where I found oil in the electrical plug, exactly the reason I replaced the previous one a month ago
But I didn't clean it, so maybe the fuse blew and all gizmo's on fuse 11 under the hood are not working? (governor, engine-pad-relay, PTC-heater, etc.)
How conductive IS oil? Will a trace of 5mm oil pass 20A of current?

Questions, questions.

But if anyone knows the answer, I'm all ears, as I plan to drive the 5 miles to her work and try to solve this this afternoon. As a good-will gesture... Then maybe I don't have to sleep outside tonight...

[outnumbered]

check that all the vac hoses are on the correct port on both TCV and TCG, also check that the intercooler pipes have not come adriftand are tight enough..
mike

[RAN60]

I bet you have put the vacuum pipes on the wrong way around on the engine pad control valve.........been there, done that, spoilt the underwear myself lol!

[R-P]

Thanks for your answers guys!!!

Solution was that I forgot to put the fiddly electrical connector back on the governor/VNT-regulator/PWM controlled vacuum relay. (It's behind the common-rail-rail iirc).



I think it is wise never to let me near the engine-bay of a car ever again...

Then again, Volvo techs are hardly any smarter than me, replacing junk that isn't broken and similar actions...

Here's me testing the governor secondary pressure. (Gratuitous vid )
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UX7hg...ature=youtu.be[/YOUTUBE]

[Bernard333]

Originally Posted by R-P

The wife is pretty po'd.


How conductive IS oil? Will a trace of 5mm oil pass 20A of current?
:

Hope you wife will forgive you eventually . Oil will not conduct 20 amps , in good clean condition its an insulator but depending on how contaminated its become it could conduct some current maybe about 10mA maximum , even plastic insulation can conduct current once its become carbonised due to high voltage tracking burning the surface .

[R-P]

General request: would anyone be so kind as to put on an old coat, some medical gloves and unplug the PTC PCV heater in the fresh-air-tube connected to the turbo to see if they also have oil in their electrical connection?

Here's what mine looks like a few weeks after cleaning, including taking out the rubbery-seal and cleaning that.
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By7QT...2&feature=plcp[/YOUTUBE]

Originally Posted by Bernard333

Hope you wife will forgive you eventually . Oil will not conduct 20 amps , in good clean condition its an insulator but depending on how contaminated its become it could conduct some current maybe about 10mA maximum , even plastic insulation can conduct current once its become carbonised due to high voltage tracking burning the surface .

Thanks, saves me getting out the multimeter... Doesn't make the leaking of the electrical connection of said spigot any less bad though...

As for plastic conducting: yes I know... My Ikea LED-bedlights are ON ever so slightly (3 out of 12 LED's per lightsource). I had to disassemble the ON/OFF switch to stop them from lighting up: there's leakage current through the plastic . I have reassembled and learned to live with it, but I still want to put a stabilised 12V on them to see if this solves it: they use a switching 12V 1A powersupply and switch the 12V, not the mains. Maybe the 12Vdc is so contaminated with switching-spikes that this is what causes the leakage current.

[stutgart69]

Originally Posted by R-P

General request: would anyone be so kind as to put on an old coat, some medical gloves and unplug the PTC PCV heater in the fresh-air-tube connected to the turbo to see if they also have oil in their electrical connection?

Yes mine looks like that too ..And funnily enough I cant get mine to rev up at the moment ( just after ordering a new maf sensor to see if that was the problem)

[stutgart69]

Originally Posted by R-P

Thanks for your answers guys!!!

Solution was that I forgot to put the fiddly electrical connector back on the governor/VNT-regulator/PWM controlled vacuum relay. (It's behind the common-rail-rail iirc).

Actually I must check that on mine

[outnumbered]

Originally Posted by R-P

General request: would anyone be so kind as to put on an old coat, some medical gloves and unplug the PTC PCV heater in the fresh-air-tube connected to the turbo to see if they also have oil in their electrical connection?

Here's what mine looks like a few weeks after cleaning, including taking out the rubbery-seal and cleaning that.
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By7QT...2&feature=plcp[/YOUTUBE]



Thanks, saves me getting out the multimeter... Doesn't make the leaking of the electrical connection of said spigot any less bad though...

As for plastic conducting: yes I know... My Ikea LED-bedlights are ON ever so slightly (3 out of 12 LED's per lightsource). I had to disassemble the ON/OFF switch to stop them from lighting up: there's leakage current through the plastic . I have reassembled and learned to live with it, but I still want to put a stabilised 12V on them to see if this solves it: they use a switching 12V 1A powersupply and switch the 12V, not the mains. Maybe the 12Vdc is so contaminated with switching-spikes that this is what causes the leakage current.

mine is not covered in oil on the inside.
mike