Rear brakes

[Matty71]

Hi everyone, I’ve just replaced the front pads/discs on my 2016 D4 S60. The rear pads are a little low and will need doing in the near future. The electronic parking brake is a bit of a pain and I’ve seen various videos on YouTube to explain the process. My question is does anything need to be reset via the on board computer system after the work has been done? I.e does it need to go to a main dealer or will everything be ok? I had no trouble with the fronts and nothing flagged up about a reset. Many thanks

[Deck1ng]

I’m sure the short answer here is no.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Matty71

Hi everyone, I’ve just replaced the front pads/discs on my 2016 D4 S60. The rear pads are a little low and will need doing in the near future. The electronic parking brake is a bit of a pain and I’ve seen various videos on YouTube to explain the process. My question is does anything need to be reset via the on board computer system after the work has been done? I.e does it need to go to a main dealer or will everything be ok? I had no trouble with the fronts and nothing flagged up about a reset. Many thanks

You'll need to retract the electronic parking brake in order to do the rear discs & pads.

You may have come across a video where a small battery is used to retract the electric motor, with the help of wires attached to the battery - That trick works perfectly fine. Alternatively, if you have a fairly decent scan tool, you can put the brakes in "service mode" & it'll reverse the motor for you. Then when you're done, just press "exit service mode".

There's nothing that needs resetting, as such. If using the battery trick, once you've replaced the pads & discs, just engage/disengage the parking brake a few times to make sure its working as it should. If using a scan tool, just exit service mode after you've done the brakes. Don't remove the electric motor entirely, as there's really no need.

[Matty71]

I haven’t got a scanning tool and have seen the video where the a torx tool is used manually to reset the electronic parking brake. That seemed to work ok, just wasn’t sure if anything flagged up. Was told be a source that a fault might show on the on board computer?

[AB100]

As already said, its fairly easy with no reset needed.
If you use a battery eg pp3, make sure its a good one! I had 3 cheap ones that didn't manage to fully rewind, takes a fair while if the pads are very low.
I used a lead from an old tyre pump to the boot power socket. Positive to the pin at the rounded end to rewind and, before reconnecting the plug, simply reverse to wind back on after everything is refitted.
Don't need to remove the motor itself, in fact you would need a long bit, and I saw a couple of posts that the flanges can easily break!
Worst bit is getting the carrier bolts out! They stick through the casting and the ends get mucky, good clean etc needed. Socket was tight in the suspension arm too!

[TeamG]

I put some pics on a previous thread showing the little wires I rigged up to a PP3 9V battery. Don’t whatever you do try to remove the motor from the caliper and wind back via torx. The two bolts holding the motor on are far too close to the motor body so your torx bit will go in at an angle. The plastic lugs break off with the slightest of pressure (that’s how a prev owner screwed up my V70 ones).

Just wind back all the way using the PP3. The first time you apply the handbrake after, the motor will wind for a few more seconds. It’s all done on the electrical load in the circuit - once enough handbrake pressure is applied, the circuit senses the change in load and stops winding.

[Adrian B]

Thanks for that information. After you have wound the handbrake off with the battery do you still have to wind the caliper piston in with a special tool or do you just drop the new pads in after removing the caliper?

[scissors]

Yes you still have to push back the piston. I release the bleed nipple to get the old fluid out, with a pipe into a bottle. I don't use a tool for it though, either a large g-clamp or a large builders clamp. I leave the old pad clipped in, it makes it easier.

[AB100]

I didn't have a suitable G clamp! So just put both pads back and used a flat bar and spacer as necessary to slowly twist in between the pads with a pair of mole grips!
My brake fluid had been recently changed, so didn't bother bleeding the excess off and the master cylinder level hardly moved. With old fluid, I would, you dont want the risk of any mucky stuff going back into the abs valve etc.
One other point, having seen the videos, you will have noted that a small screwdriver will release the clip on the electrics plug, I found it a bit awkward to release and needs the driver at right angles. Once you've done the first its easy! Its this kind of moment when a headtorch pays for itself!

[Adrian B]

Hi. Sorry mines a 2012 XC60. I thought you have to wind back the rear pistons?