940 Heater Control Valve

[jim f]

Hi,
I want to replace the heater control valve on my non-air con' 91 SE Turbo. Does anyone know if it is possible to do so without removing the clutch pedal? If the pedal has to be removed could someone please advise how to go about this?
Many Thanks,
Jim.

[gpl1968]

Apparently not.
Instructions attached.

[jim f]

Originally Posted by gpl1968

Apparently not.
Instructions attached.

Thanks for the info', much obliged.
Jim.

[Laney760]

Originally Posted by jim f

Hi,
I want to replace the heater control valve on my non-air con' 91 SE Turbo. Does anyone know if it is possible to do so without removing the clutch pedal? If the pedal has to be removed could someone please advise how to go about this?
Many Thanks,
Jim.

Just to say, as you thought it was on the right hand side and not the left, you might not have checked the following, when mine went on my 940 I eventually found underneath the passenger carpet was absolutely sodden

[jim f]

Originally Posted by Laney760

Just to say, as you thought it was on the right hand side and not the left, you might not have checked the following, when mine went on my 940 I eventually found underneath the passenger carpet was absolutely sodden

Hi,
Had checked the passenger side just in case the heater matrix was at fault, luckily this side is completely dry. I have a new heater control valve, but am a bit concerned about having to remove the clutch pedal to gain access.

[Ian21401]

Hello jim f, (My car is 940 estate, 1992 2.0litre petrol)
I had this problem in 2007/8 and didn't realise that the clutch pedal must be removed and I didn't have that extremely helpfull pdf file provided by gpl1968 in his post but Peter Haynes advised me about removing the clutch pedal as follows:
Disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal by removing the clip from the cotter pin and removing the pin.
Remove the clutch pedal fulcrum bolt (12mm and no shims or washers on mine)
Remove the left side support (nearest the transmission tunnel). It has one
12mm bolt at the top of the bulkhead and two 13mm nuts on bolts which also secure the clutch master cylinder to the bulkhead. (Leave the bolts and master cylinder in situ as the cylinder should just hang on the bolts).
This now gives you space to manouvre the heater valve out of the bulkhead.
After disconnecting the hoses and unclipping the two operating cables from the housing I found that the valve and control unit on my car had to be removed as one complete unit by turning it clockwise through 90 degrees to free the lugs from the bulkhead. (It is mounted on the bayonet principle with two lugs (or "dogs") on the moulding diametrically opposed to each other which which engage into the "bayonet" fitting hole in the bulkhead.)
Care is required when manouvering the corner extremities of the control housing past the rubber gaiter around the clutch cylinder push-rod, but as the cylinder is no longer secured to the bulkhead this is now possible.
Having turned the entire unit through 90 degress clockwise it should come away from the bulkhead in one piece.
The valve itself is secured to the back of the control housing by plastic clips forming part of the control housing itself so VERY CAREFULLY prise the old valve away from the housing and EQUALLY CAREFULLY locate the new valve into the housing.
The control cables:
The temperature control cable operates a lever on the control housing which pivots at the top right hand corner of the housing. A concave cam on that lever actually moves the valve itself. The same lever also operates the air flap control cable.
When re-assembling I found that it was easier to locate the temperature control cable into the plastic lever before fitting the unit to the bulkhead and fit the air control cable afterwards.
I hope this is helpful.

[jim f]

Hi Ian,
Many thanks. Your comprehensive reply is very much appreciated.
Jim.

[Ian21401]

You're very welcome Jim.
Please add a post to advise how the job goes and if anything different from my post.
Thanks.

[Ian21401]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

Hello jim f, (My car is 940 estate, 1992 2.0litre petrol)
I had this problem in 2007/8 and didn't realise that the clutch pedal must be removed and I didn't have that extremely helpfull pdf file provided by gpl1968 in his post but Peter Haynes advised me about removing the clutch pedal as follows:
Disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal by removing the clip from the cotter pin and removing the pin.
Remove the clutch pedal fulcrum bolt (12mm and no shims or washers on mine)
Remove the left side support (nearest the transmission tunnel). It has one
12mm bolt at the top of the bulkhead and two 13mm nuts on bolts which also secure the clutch master cylinder to the bulkhead. (Leave the bolts and master cylinder in situ as the cylinder should just hang on the bolts).
This now gives you space to manouvre the heater valve out of the bulkhead.
After disconnecting the hoses and unclipping the two operating cables from the housing I found that the valve and control unit on my car had to be removed as one complete unit by turning it clockwise through 90 degrees to free the lugs from the bulkhead. (It is mounted on the bayonet principle with two lugs (or "dogs") on the moulding diametrically opposed to each other which which engage into the "bayonet" fitting hole in the bulkhead.)
Care is required when manouvering the corner extremities of the control housing past the rubber gaiter around the clutch cylinder push-rod, but as the cylinder is no longer secured to the bulkhead this is now possible.
Having turned the entire unit through 90 degress clockwise it should come away from the bulkhead in one piece.
The valve itself is secured to the back of the control housing by plastic clips forming part of the control housing itself so VERY CAREFULLY prise the old valve away from the housing and EQUALLY CAREFULLY locate the new valve into the housing.
The control cables:
The temperature control cable operates a lever on the control housing which pivots at the top right hand corner of the housing. A concave cam on that lever actually moves the valve itself. The same lever also operates the air flap control cable.
When re-assembling I found that it was easier to locate the temperature control cable into the plastic lever before fitting the unit to the bulkhead and fit the air control cable afterwards.
I hope this is helpful.

I found it. Sorry but I’ve had to bump this thread as I don’t know any other way of moving my thread.
I suppose that you don’t need most of it but the last three paragraphs my be helpful.
Ian.

[Ian21401]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

Hello jim f, (My car is 940 estate, 1992 2.0litre petrol)
I had this problem in 2007/8 and didn't realise that the clutch pedal must be removed and I didn't have that extremely helpfull pdf file provided by gpl1968 in his post but Peter Haynes advised me about removing the clutch pedal as follows:
Disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal by removing the clip from the cotter pin and removing the pin.
Remove the clutch pedal fulcrum bolt (12mm and no shims or washers on mine)
Remove the left side support (nearest the transmission tunnel). It has one
12mm bolt at the top of the bulkhead and two 13mm nuts on bolts which also secure the clutch master cylinder to the bulkhead. (Leave the bolts and master cylinder in situ as the cylinder should just hang on the bolts).
This now gives you space to manouvre the heater valve out of the bulkhead.
After disconnecting the hoses and unclipping the two operating cables from the housing I found that the valve and control unit on my car had to be removed as one complete unit by turning it clockwise through 90 degrees to free the lugs from the bulkhead. (It is mounted on the bayonet principle with two lugs (or "dogs") on the moulding diametrically opposed to each other which which engage into the "bayonet" fitting hole in the bulkhead.)
Care is required when manouvering the corner extremities of the control housing past the rubber gaiter around the clutch cylinder push-rod, but as the cylinder is no longer secured to the bulkhead this is now possible.
Having turned the entire unit through 90 degress clockwise it should come away from the bulkhead in one piece.
The valve itself is secured to the back of the control housing by plastic clips forming part of the control housing itself so VERY CAREFULLY prise the old valve away from the housing and EQUALLY CAREFULLY locate the new valve into the housing.
The control cables:
The temperature control cable operates a lever on the control housing which pivots at the top right hand corner of the housing. A concave cam on that lever actually moves the valve itself. The same lever also operates the air flap control cable.
When re-assembling I found that it was easier to locate the temperature control cable into the plastic lever before fitting the unit to the bulkhead and fit the air control cable afterwards.
I hope this is helpful.

Vicky,
This may help.
Sorry about bumping the thread but it was the quickest way for me.