1991 240 with starting problem

Hi, I'm a recent (Sep 2003) 240 owner, it's 1991, B200F engine, Italian model (I'm in Italy) with one previous owner, great service record and a problem that's happened now twice with very similar circustances.

Twice now I've had the engine get to point where I can't start it after moving the car on the drive and then a few hours later try to start again. The engine fires and then splutters to a halt. After that it's virtually dead.

I've checked all the usual suspects, plugs were slightly oiled/carbon covered, cleaned them off and sparking well now. The last time I called a local garage and he claimed he succeeded by just changing the plugs. This time they are clean and still it won't go. I can occasionally get it to fire but it's impossible to tell if it is short of fuel or flooded (there is fuel inthe tank, just above the empty mark). I'm not touching the accelerator, except when it fires.

So far as I can tell, every looks well connected and no dodgy hoses (there is a narrow hose going across the top of the engine, connected it seems to some sort of filter and then the carburator; if it is supposed to have fuel in it, it certainly doesn't).

Any hints about how to check this through very much appreciated.

Simon

Let me be a bit more precise now (I've been struggling all day with this). I've done a search on "start AND problem AND fuel" and found a few possible leads but without a manual (Haynes on the way) I'm a bit lost what to pull at.

Spark: fine on all four plugs
Fuel: seems OK, after trying the engine the plugs are pretty wet and smell of petrol.
Oil on plugs: I found that the previous owner seems to have over filled the engine - I drained 2lts of extra oil off the sump before bringing the level back to the lower end of the dipstick range. :o
Timing: I find it strange the timing just slipped like that. Seems wrong. Was running pretty well last two months, other than on some cold starts obviously running on 3 cylinders - but then the plugs were getting dirty. Definitely not tuned perfectly but it should be able to start, surely. The last proper start - a few hours before going pear-shaped - the engine started first time, running perfectly, with snow on the bonnet...
Air filter: a little dirty, needs a change but then again shouldn't be the crisis issue?

Both times I have had this problem it has been cold (around 0 degs C), I have started the car and run it for less than a minute moving it on the driveway, then tried later in the day to move it. Both times parked with front slightly up hill. Trying hours/days later seems to change nothing.

Last time is was towed away and the mechanic said he did no more than change the dirty plugs. Something else must have happened, since this time the plugs are clean and it still doesn't start.

I've read here about banging the fuel pump, tapping the relay, etc. If I only knew where - I'd hit them both with a hammer.

[vjck_uk]

I have a 240 with a carb (sisac) fitted.
I used to have trouble with mine.
What I found was it had to have full choke to start even on a summer morning,but as soon as it did the choke had to be in halfway within 2 seconds or it would stop and then not be very keen.
If you do just move it and only run it for a minute try to keep it on a fst tickover on the throttle and push the choke all the way in and let it run to clear the excess fuel for about 30 seconds
Vaughan

Thanks for the hint, but it's an automatic choke, so I can't try this. No idea what the carb is, its a huge thing with what looks like an injection system on the top of it, even though according to the owners' manual it is not the injection model.

A friend at work has suggested vapour lock caused by moisture in the tank?

Simon

[Clifford Pope]

One thing I'd certainly look at is your starting regime. You say on each occasion you have started the car, moved it, and then stopped after a few minutes?

IMO that is the worst possible thing you should be doing. It is bad for the engine, and in particular is liable to bring on the starting problems you are describing. Either start up and go, or if you really have to move it first, keep the engine running at a fast idle, preferably putting the choke in if that is possible. Whether carburettor or injection, a half-warmed up condition with lots of unburnt fuel lying in the system is virtually guaranteed to make restarting difficult.

>One thing I'd certainly look at is your starting regime. You
>say on each occasion you have started the car, moved it, and
>then stopped after a few minutes?
>
>IMO that is the worst possible thing you should be doing. It
>is bad for the engine, and in particular is liable to bring on
>the starting problems you are describing. Either start up and
>go, or if you really have to move it first, keep the engine
>running at a fast idle, preferably putting the choke in if
>that is possible. Whether carburettor or injection, a
>half-warmed up condition with lots of unburnt fuel lying in
>the system is virtually guaranteed to make restarting
>difficult.

Thanks, I'll pass the message on to my wife, who keeps parking the car inconveniently in the drive so that I can't get past... ;-)

So, the car is now running, after a tow start at 25kph in 3rd for about 50 metres. Now works and starts fine.

Something blocked and was only unblocked with some heavy mechanical turning over of the engine. Any ideas? It's an auto choke (at least I didn't find a lever to pull in the 5 months I've owned it) - any way of resetting this manually, even in the engine compartment? I'm fairly convinced my problem was largely related to mixture caused by this being confused with the short start and move. (Obviously something I should avoid...)

The only tube/hose I found with a small problem was a thin line coming across the engine block across to the top of the carb. The hose (actually a rather stiff thin tube) has a small (3cm diameter) white filter in it. Any idea of its function?

Thanks

[vjck_uk]

That's probably a vacuum pipe for the ignition timing.
If it's an auto choke then that will be the reason,as it will be oiling up.
It won't start to weaken the mixture until there's a bit of heat in the engine.
It's very unforgiving not at all like an injection setup,and will not like it one bit just starting and the stopping after a minute.
Auto chokes are sometimes adjustable and some can have a manual choke conversion fitted to them but if you use it sensibly it should be ok.
We could really do with more info or a picture of the carb.
Vaughan

Just checked and I can find no info on the carb in the owners' manual nor on the carb itself (just Volvo - Sweden). I'm sure it's a B200F engine, which although in my owners manual is given as the version that is not fuel injection (that's a B200E) it does state it has a LH-injection system (all the pipes across the top of the carb).

I'll try and get a photo this evening. Started perfectly after 3secs in sub zero conditions this morning.

Here's a picture of the carb: http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/dc/user_files/319.jpg
The hose across the top that I refer to in my earlier messages is the one I am holding up.