D5 (D5244T to 2005) How well does your d5 pull?

[barrybritcher]

Originally Posted by Dalexus

I'm not be necessarily knocking remaps but best to use the knowledge & experience available on forums such as this and aim to get your car running as it should & was originally supposed to.
I have a tuning box (made by rover Ron who knows his stuff with common rail diesels) that I used with my rover 75 and plan to have altered to fit my Volvo d5.... BUT I'm going to attempt to resolve any underlying issues with the engine first and then try it.
As skyship says the under 2000rpm zone is where there is less turbo assistance and hopefully the tuning box will make the car more pleasant to drive at lower rpm. I will eventually report back with results but on the tuning box thread perhaps rather than contributing to the further wandering of this thread

YES! The rover ron boxes are excellent. Though he has put his prices up by £30

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by Dalexus

I'm not be necessarily knocking remaps but best to use the knowledge & experience available on forums such as this and aim to get your car running as it should & was originally supposed to.
I have a tuning box (made by rover Ron who knows his stuff with common rail diesels) that I used with my rover 75 and plan to have altered to fit my Volvo d5.... BUT I'm going to attempt to resolve any underlying issues with the engine first and then try it.
As skyship says the under 2000rpm zone is where there is less turbo assistance and hopefully the tuning box will make the car more pleasant to drive at lower rpm. I will eventually report back with results but on the tuning box thread perhaps rather than contributing to the further wandering of this thread

Tuning boxes that fail can damage the ECU and Ron is not going to buy you a new one if some far Eastern inspired short circuit or dry joint kills your motor. Only an insurance investigator really loves tuning boxes, as they don't need to get the hidden fault codes read to prove if an engine was modified without an approval.

With many modern turbo diesels the ultimate main block killer is often the head gasket and if you increase the boost or fit a tuning box it tends to reduce the life of the HG. Extra boost can easily cause an old HG to crack and the higher CHT's caused by tuning boxes or MAP fiddling are also bad news for the HG, particularly if the oil flow patterns around the head have been compromised by varnish deposits. The hot spots that result stress the HG into a premature failure, although nothing beats a driver that uses the wrong gear or an owner that never changes the coolant.

[Dalexus]

I suppose there's a certain daft underlying desire to achieve a bit more power rather than being happy with a perfectly adequate car. My first car was a beaten up Morris marina 80 odd horsepower & I thought it was great.(but I had to try the twin carbs anyway!)
I'm going to try the ronbox just out of interest as I have it anyway (& I tow trailer/caravan regularly) I'm not looking to do wheelspins & drive like a maniac.
I think I may need to give VNT some attention cheshired5 going by what you say.

[moleman58]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

You're misreading your max boost.
It's actually 22.5 psi which is way too high.
The obvious causes are a sticking VNT mechanism in the turbo or the electric actuator isn't working correctly or you have a boost leak somewhere so blowing intercooler/pipework etc.

If 22000 is the maximum rail pressure you can get, consider changing the fuel filter as a cheap starting point.

Thanks for the guidance.
The fuel filter has been done
Have checked a few things. It seems to be the actuator. There is almost 1cm of play on the actuator arm, watching videos of actuator repairs that seems excessive on a worm driven gear.
So is it a whole turbo replacement or just actuator?
I have seen older threads on here saying its not a replacement part, but then ads online indicating it may be available and much cheaper at around £80??
As access is difficult I doubt I would attempt this myself.
Any advice appreciated
Cheers

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by moleman58

So is it a whole turbo replacement or just actuator?
I have seen older threads on here saying its not a replacement part, but then ads online indicating it may be available and much cheaper at around £80??

Officially from Volvo, the actuator isn't sold separately so your route is to speak to a specialist turbo seller.
The other thing to consider though is that a poor fuel/air mix can create excessive soot and clog the VNT mechanism which in turn can cause premature wear on the actuator worm drive.
If this is the case and you only change the actuator, your problem may persist and mess up the new actuator yet getting someone to open the turbo and refresh the innards may work out more than buying a whole turbo+actuator unit on a part exchange basis.

If not doing it diy and you need the car fixed and turned around quickly it can be a case of sucking up the cost and doing it by the book first time.

[moleman58]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Officially from Volvo, the actuator isn't sold separately so your route is to speak to a specialist turbo seller.
The other thing to consider though is that a poor fuel/air mix can create excessive soot and clog the VNT mechanism which in turn can cause premature wear on the actuator worm drive.
If this is the case and you only change the actuator, your problem may persist and mess up the new actuator yet getting someone to open the turbo and refresh the innards may work out more than buying a whole turbo+actuator unit on a part exchange basis.

If not doing it diy and you need the car fixed and turned around quickly it can be a case of sucking up the cost and doing it by the book first time.

OK thanks again for the advice
One last thing, to confirm it was the actuator I viewed the arm whilst revving the engine, no movement. I am guessing there should be some movement and that if stationary this seems to indicate it is stuck/broken?
cheers