B16 compression test

[arcturus]

Derek,see my other post re broken teeth

[kishor]

Originally Posted by arcturus

Did a comp' test yesterday and the results showed 1-2 &3 cylinder about 9 bar. Number four showed 4 bar! I want to do oil test to determine valve or ring. Can someone please clarify this test for me. My understanding is that you put a small amount of oil down plug hole and re do test. If pressure jumps up then it's a ring.

Weird, I retested this morning before doing oil test and all pressures were equal! 9 bar. Perhaps I hadn't screwed the gauge in properly. Will retest again later just to be sure.

Hi.
just checking, is there a 'miss' whilst the engine is running. If yes, then i have a suggestion for you that could be causing pressure loss
Ta
kassie 07828879494

[Derek UK]

If you are just checking the teeth you wouldn't need to remove the fibre wheel, just turn the engine and check all of them visually. If you're going to change it because you don't want to get in there again in the near future an impact driver would be handy but not essential. Just push a wad of rag between the gears to lock them together and use a socket and extension. As an option, using a long ring spanner would allow you to give the other end a whack with a copper or lead mallet to start the nut moving.

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by kishor

Hi.
just checking, is there a 'miss' whilst the engine is running. If yes, then i have a suggestion for you that could be causing pressure loss
Ta
kassie 07828879494

Let's have your suggestion anyway

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

If you are just checking the teeth you wouldn't need to remove the fibre wheel, just turn the engine and check all of them visually. If you're going to change it because you don't want to get in there again in the near future an impact driver would be handy but not essential. Just push a wad of rag between the gears to lock them together and use a socket and extension. As an option, using a long ring spanner would allow you to give the other end a whack with a copper or lead mallet to start the nut moving.

So,how would you lock the fan belt pulley to remove that nut so that the timing cover can be removed?

[Derek UK]

If you are removing the engine without the gearbox you can use one of these to lock the flywheel. You can then put a ring spanner on the crank nut and give it a whack.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Fl...l/161912968024
There are other versions, some cheaper.
Bonnet off and rad out you can likely also do the spanner and hammer method before removing the engine. Put it in gear first.

[arcturus]

Thanks. All good advice appreciated.Good to have everything sorted in the mind before starting.

[arcturus]

I like to have a good plan of action and everything in place before starting. Of course, "if it can go wrong it usually does"

[blueosprey90]

Not PV related, but perhaps similar.

On my MGA engine, with it out of the car, I could not remove the dog nut on the end of the crankshaft for the life of me - even after using a breaker bar and ever muscle in my body. I think the torque setting on that nut is 150 ft lbs.

I finally rented an electrical impact wrench, and it made short work of the task.

With the engine in the car, you might one of these two approaches, although I think that the MGA engine and the Volvo engines spin in different directions. Note the block of wood.

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cs104a.htm

[Derek UK]

Talking about blocks of wood, if you are really stripping the engine down, a suitable length of wood can be jammed between the crank and the block to allow you to get the crank nut loose with a spanner and a heavy mallet. You can do the same to torque it back up again.