Body/Trim: Rear Bumper Removal - Guide

[justyjust]

Originally Posted by Clan

Yes 5 mm but they are not the usual ones they are light duty alloy/plastic so when you pull the pop rivet it doesnt damage or split the plastic panels with the expansion force .

thanks how long are they??? so i cannot use a aluminium type for it??? cheers

[Clan]

Originally Posted by justyjust

thanks how long are they??? so i cannot use a aluminium type for it??? cheers

From under the head to the end 23mm

An ordinary pop rivet expands the body to work , these do not expand at all ,the end crumples and exerts a force like a nut and bolt to pull the 2 plastic parts together . If you use a standard pop rivet you could split the arch liner or its backing panel ..

[justyjust]

Originally Posted by Clan

From under the head to the end 23mm

An ordinary pop rivet expands the body to work , these do not expand at all ,the end crumples and exerts a force like a nut and bolt to pull the 2 plastic parts together . If you use a standard pop rivet you could split the arch liner or its backing panel ..

Thanks for all the help looks like I won't be doing the reverse sensor today then, do you know where i can buy these rivets cheap or online?? Also could i use some other type of plastic rivet / fixing???

[Clan]

Originally Posted by justyjust

Thanks for all the help looks like I won't be doing the reverse sensor today then, do you know where i can buy these rivets cheap or online?? Also could i use some other type of plastic rivet / fixing???

Most volvo dealers would have these in stock they arent very expensive ,I havent seen them anywhere else , you cant get to the back to use a plastic nut and bolt such as a black numberplate bolt ..

[LordLanky]

Originally Posted by BestGear

Guys
Undo the four nuts - I say nuts, but they are welded to sleeves.... as see here with a foam cover... I used a short extension and be careful - you dont want to drop the sleeves inside the chassis which is very piossible if you are clumsy when withdrawing them.

Thank you from me - I used this a while ago to explore what was broken, and again today now that I've got round to buying the sensors.
The wife is exceedingly happy her "beep-beep" is back!

TIP: when putting your socket in the holes make up a small tube and put the socket and extension down the tube, over the nut. This means you don't have to worry about dropping the nuts inside the bumper when taking off or putting on!

[skiffy]

This is all very useful, contemplating doing this myself as one of my sensors isn't working 95% of the time. The only bit that worries me is the releasing of the plastic clips on the sides. How easy is this? just concerned about snapping them off.

One question though. I enquired at a local body shop about them doing this for me and they mentioned that once the new sensor is in you have to hook up to a computer to calibrate it or something like that. Is this necessary? I have got a fixed tow bar so can the distances be adjusted?

Also, for extra info on the same subject, I came across the official Volvo guide for this: http://ftp.clubvolvo.ru/CARS%20DOCS%...0660633_en.pdf

[SkipjackUK]

removed my rear bumper a few weeks back and put in a new loom and one sensor. No software required on MY2003, just plug n play

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...t=64712&page=2

[XCF]

Thanks BestGear - advice worked well on 2010 XC90.

My sensors showed no error on the car or on VIDA - but generally squealed all the time when in reverse. Two sensors were corroded so I hoped it was the sensors rather than the loom.

I bought four sensors from ebay for JLR - with part number 9G92-15K859-AB. Got 4 for less than £25. Just be aware that you need to take off the little rubber caps from your existing sensors.

Only other advice is - the 2010 bumper has extra clips on each side (or perhaps I just misunderstood the removal step) - you can see them from the side / underneath and remove these first will then help. The silver trim (by exhaust pipes) wraps around and has two fasteners that connect it to the bumper support bar (very obvious when you have the bumper off the car).

Finally - the pop rivets that you drill out can be accessed from the rear - so very easy to put a nut on the back if you don't have a pop rivet gun (or a rivet).

I dislodged one of the sensor holders when removing the old sensor - but it glued back on just fine.


It took me a steady couple of hours - I made up a tube from card to make sure I didn't drop the nuts in the chassis when removing - and used a spot of blueback in the socket to be double sure. No issues at all. Bolts are in the outer and inner of four chassis holes on each side of the battery.

Hope this helps someone else - it certainly helped me and no doubt I have saved £300+ by avoiding a trip to the dealers.

[colinbos]

With regard to replacement rivets, I used 25mm 6mil PEEL rivets. They peel out like a banana skin and don't exert any force on the plastic parts your going. EBay have them

[magnos]

After reading this I got my confidence on replacing my faulty rear parking sensor on my facelift My2006 model .. now I just come back from dealer and they asked 75£ for it does anyone know a reliable one on eBay ,I found some for 10£ pounds but are they any good ?? any advice very much appreciated !!