Engine: D5: what could be draining my power?

[totalguy]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

OP, I'll say it again..... I've read the whole thread.
You were offered really good advice by several members and you've ignored it all.
You've been told the tests which need to be done and you claim they've been done but the figures prove that the tests haven't been done correctly.

Bleat all you like but that's why your car still isn't fixed.

i havent ignored it all ive took advice and tried things the only things i havent done is things that were done while in the presence of an electrician which have already been tried

would you do a job again if you already had it done and you knew for a fact it was done correctly?

doesnt matter now a professional has the car which again you neglected to see and i dont need your advice AT ALL

anyone else i will gladly accept advice from they have been helpful and useful but from you id rather take a dump in my hands and clap so go away bye bye

last reply to you.............im done with your childishness

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by totalguy

id rather take a dump in my hands and clap

Oddly, this would be more likely to fix your car than what you've done so far.

[totalguy]

so as soon as i get more info ill update this but as for now they got the info/advice given which was volvo specific.

ill let them also do their own checks but if they ask me about anything else ill come and post here but they are working on it in their own time so might take a while

hopefully they can get to the bottom of it because im not sure what to do if they dont ill probably break the car but hopefully doesnt go that far.

(certain person ignored)

[foggyjames]

Following some post reports, Judge James finds as follows...

Totalguy makes some fair points:
- He DID say that he had done the early tests, but it was now with a BMW specialist. Chesh...you plainly DID skim that post and ranted at him with incorrect information.
- The tone of some posts is unnecessarily combative towards him. Calm it down, please.

Others make some fair points:
- The meter appears to be being used incorrectly in those photos
- Totalguy’s posts aren’t very easy to read, so it’s easy to miss details (like the BMW specialist post).

For what it’s worth, I own one of those meters, and have personally used it to successfully trace several battery drain issues. I found it to have no significant accuracy issues. So whilst it might well lack resolution at low currents, and might not provide “evidential-grade” readings, it’s not entirely unsuitable for the job at hand either. It would serve Mr Chesh well to be rather less dismissive in tone. Being an arse to less experienced people still makes you an arse You can also deliver a blunt message (like “I really think you should take this to an auto electrician!”) without being an arse. In case I have made the point strongly enough yet, DON’T BE AN ARSE!

Now...call this bonkers, but try extracting the main starter power cable from the loom for the final 1-2’ at the starter end, and see if that helps. My friend’s Euro 4 S60 D5 was immobilised for months by a really random issue. The magnetic field from the very high current in the starter motor power cable was creating a spurious signal on the crank sensor wiring, swamping the signal from the (weak) crank sensor. The ECU was detecting this as a fault condition and cutting the power (i.e. halting cranking), but there’s no proper fault routine for it, so no code was stored. New crank sensor, and all was well. Moving the power cable away from the rest of the loom is a quick check...or just replace the sensor, if you’re not fussed about firing the parts cannon at it.

cheers

James

[totalguy]

Originally Posted by foggyjames

Following some post reports, Judge James finds as follows...

Totalguy makes some fair points:
- He DID say that he had done the early tests, but it was now with a BMW specialist. Chesh...you plainly DID skim that post and ranted at him with incorrect information.
- The tone of some posts is unnecessarily combative towards him. Calm it down, please.

Others make some fair points:
- The meter appears to be being used incorrectly in those photos
- Totalguy’s posts aren’t very easy to read, so it’s easy to miss details (like the BMW specialist post).

For what it’s worth, I own one of those meters, and have personally used it to successfully trace several battery drain issues. I found it to have no significant accuracy issues. So whilst it might well lack resolution at low currents, and might not provide “evidential-grade” readings, it’s not entirely unsuitable for the job at hand either. It would serve Mr Chesh well to be rather less dismissive in tone. Being an arse to less experienced people still makes you an arse You can also deliver a blunt message (like “I really think you should take this to an auto electrician!”) without being an arse. In case I have made the point strongly enough yet, DON’T BE AN ARSE!

Now...call this bonkers, but try extracting the main starter power cable from the loom for the final 1-2’ at the starter end, and see if that helps. My friend’s Euro 4 S60 D5 was immobilised for months by a really random issue. The magnetic field from the very high current in the starter motor power cable was creating a spurious signal on the crank sensor wiring, swamping the signal from the (weak) crank sensor. The ECU was detecting this as a fault condition and cutting the power (i.e. halting cranking), but there’s no proper fault routine for it, so no code was stored. New crank sensor, and all was well. Moving the power cable away from the rest of the loom is a quick check...or just replace the sensor, if you’re not fussed about firing the parts cannon at it.

cheers

James

thank you!

the meter was being used incorrectly at that time and i also stated i may have done things wrong.

post 65 states it went to the bmw specialist right at the top so thats easy to see.

the cable from the jumper point to the starter then the other one to the alternator has been changed a brand new thicker cable was used or do you mean something different?

i will pass on the information to them though and they can check it themselves thank you.

[cheshired5]

Telling someone who doesn't know what they're doing that they don't know what they're doing isn't being an arse.
They could short an 800A circuit for goodness sake.

As forum members we try to help people to fix cars for free by proxy and we have fixed hundreds of cars from our sofas yet the BMW specialist haven't fixed or even diagnosed the car when it's right in front of them.
Therefore, telling someone that the BMW specialist doesn't know what they are doing isn't being an arse either.

You don't receive over 6000 thanks on a forum for being an arse.

I talk straight and to the point and see no need for tempering my language when someone is potentially exposing themselves to danger or anyone else who reads the thread in the future and thinks the OP's methods are the way to fix their car.
I hate people getting ripped off too so if someone is getting their arse spanked by a "professional" for zero benefit, that needs a straight response.

At the beginning of this thread, OP was dismissive of valid and helpful suggestions from several members on the grounds that X tests had already been done by the OP and his friend..... then OP goes on to admit that he and his friend didn't know what they're doing.
The logical next step would be to repeat the suggested tests correctly with the help of the members but OP instead gets ripped off by a professional but name calls the guy who is pointing this out and defends the BMW specialist who is as good as robbing him.

Now that's being an arse.

I was out of this thread but thought I'd add my final observations now that an electrical thread has morphed into needing a referee.
I'll now remain out and hopefully this useless thread will die the death it deserves.

[barrybritcher]

is the car going to be locked in a secure place / being worked on at the time that you want to disconnect the CCM?

becos being the end of the chain on the bus, removing it will disable the central locking and interior lights etc so youll have to lock each door by hand should you call it a day to continue on the next day

[totalguy]

Originally Posted by barrybritcher

is the car going to be locked in a secure place / being worked on at the time that you want to disconnect the CCM?

becos being the end of the chain on the bus, removing it will disable the central locking and interior lights etc so youll have to lock each door by hand should you call it a day to continue on the next day

its definitely safe where it is

no news yet though probably not had time

[foggyjames]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

You don't receive over 6000 thanks on a forum for being an arse.

I know you're not an arse, but you crossed the line somewhere around the point you missed that he said he'd taken it to an auto electrician, and started arguing with him about whether or not he'd said that. It was unnecessarily cantankerous, and I know you're a more helpful person than that. Having said that, I agree that he's not helped himself here. Anyway, water under the bridge...!

On that point...c'mon man (OP) - read what I wrote! This is what has wound Chesh up - you're only half listening.

You need to *move* the starter power cable (yes, between the motor and jump point) *away from the rest of the wiring loom* temporarily to do this test.

cheers

James

[barrybritcher]

It it fixed yet, I'm worried I might die of old age first.