940 rust / corrosion issues

[tofufi]

Hi folks,

My brother is looking to buy a 940 at the moment.

He's found one he likes, but there's a bit of corrosion behind each of the front wheels...





The welding doesn't scare me off, this car is newer than any car I've ever owned... however, is this area likely to rot due to a specific problem like a water leak that we should be aware of?

It looks like there could have been water getting into the sill area, which could lead to much bigger problems down the line?

We'll go see the car tomorrow to get a better look at it, but just wondered if anyone had seen corrosion in this specific area before?

The seller seems to be being honest and has highlighted the issues in advance of us seeing it, which is positive!

EDIT: just compared with my 740, and it looks like the photos above are actually in front of the rear wheel...!

Cheers,
Jim.

[TonyS9]

Not caused by any specific problem I am aware of. The sills do start to go after about 20 years if left outside.

My 95 has had a fair amount of welding. 1 particular problem I had was the lower rear (estate) window seals allowing water onto the inner wheel arch and causing significant rust there and into the rear cubby holes.

[jpliddy]

i spent £400 on welding cills patched up plus cross member rotten and other bits near rear wheel archs but still running 258000 miles

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by tofufi

EDIT: just compared with my 740, and it looks like the photos above are actually in front of the rear wheel...!

Cheers,
Jim.

Got to agree Jim, it does look more like the back end, highly possible the seller made a mistake and simply forgot it was the back end and put the front in his description as he couldn't remember. Also possible that both the front and back ends are corroded and he sent the pics of the rear as they're worse.

If the car is up for a reasonable price and you know you can do the welding, go and have a look at it and give it a very thorough inspection for rust including the outriggers under the front footwells then use whatever welding you find to beat the price down. If you find other mechanical faults along the way, they can be used to drop the price further - also check round the battery tray area both sides from underneath, there is a water trap there as i'm sure you know anyway.

[tofufi]

Cheers folks, will be going to look at it this afternoon.

Fingers crossed

[Stephen Edwin]

I am not hearing that such cars are all corroded. So. There will be another car for sale now or soon. With less or far less corrosion. So. What does your brother really want?



P.S. Winter tyres will be fitted to those wheels you kindly sold me and fitted to the car in about 14 days or so.


.

[tofufi]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

I am not hearing that such cars are all corroded. So. There will be another car for sale now or soon. With less or far less corrosion. So. What does your brother really want?


.

True, and mine isn't corroded there. But my brother is looking for a given spec and with a limited budget. We'll see how it goes - the corrosion in the pics isn't too severe, but there could be more horrors which we find when seeing the car

[Laird Scooby]

Often worth the comromise of having to do some work (welding and/or mechanical) to get the spec you want Jim - you know that with your 740 and the air-con!

Also worth remembering that if one car has rust in a particular area, there's every chance a more expensive one either has or will have rust in the same area at some point. Sometimes a grotty but honest car is the much better bet over a bright and shiny car that could be (and probably is) hiding all kinds of grot, rot and bodges.

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

.... a grotty but honest car is the much better bet over a bright and shiny car that could be (and probably is) hiding all kinds of grot, rot and bodges. ....

Absolutely yes. I agree.

And a known rusty car is someone else's problem more so than a mechanical problem. The buyer does get the chance to make sure there is a good repair done. But the seller has not thought it worthwhile to get it fixed.

.

[Dirty Rooster]

Originally Posted by tofufi

... however, is this area likely to rot due to a specific problem like a water leak that we should be aware of?.

There is something about the normal flow of water (+road salt) that causes them to begin rusting around those sill jacking points.
Yours has gone a bit far ... I caught mine with some rust converter and filler last year.
Just a common thing, and far far better at resisting the inevitable rot than any other old car I've owned.

Edit : mine was the back end jacking point, left side, now that it is part of the discussion.