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ETM Issues Discuss issues regarding the problems with ETMs fitted to Volvo cars.

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ETM - Latest ETM & Volvo UK Info + Pricing/Contactless

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Old May 7th, 2017, 14:57   #1
DSK
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Default ETM - Latest ETM & Volvo UK Info + Pricing/Contactless

The ETM has failed on one of my C70's.

In desperation I will be going to the old MRG Volvo site in Chippenham to get a new one fitted.

I was advised that Volvo UK no longer pay the labour the for this this work and that this good will gesture was terminated in 2006

PARTS COST

Replacement ETM
Gasket
Software

The above is costing me £234

LABOUR COSTS

This will vary from dealer to dealer depending on what their rates are but allow for 2 hours labour time.

In my case this will be £200 bringing my payable total for an ETM to £434! Not nice for something that could only last a very short time.

CONTACT REPAIRS

XEMODEX has been mentioned in another thread and I am considering this for the failed ETM which I will be keeping upon removal.

Also there are a number of contact-less sensors advertised on Ebay for around £75-80. Does anyone have any experiences with these?
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Old Jun 6th, 2017, 14:03   #2
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My V70 is is the same situation (though not completely failed yet), so I will be following this thread closely.
Trying to work out the best option.
What kind of warranty do you get from the dealers, if any?
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Old Nov 27th, 2019, 15:46   #3
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I am amazed I don't see any further responses to this thread. Like DSK, I had mine replaced in 2014 by an independent specialist in Wantage, Oxfordshire near me, who had to take it to Volvo to get the part and have it programmed. Total cost was very similar.
Five years and 49,000 miles further...guess what? Groundhog day!

I can't bear to part with the old girl; she's only done 188,000 miles and with the LPG conversion routinely returns the equivalent of almost 58mpg compared to the cost of petrol. I'm a retired electronics engineer so the mods required to fit a Sacer unit (the contactless device) are not a problem for me.
The parts are on eBay for £76, which is acceptable.
So has anyone else experience of doing it, or am I in uncharted waters? I doubt it.
Speak up chaps! Please?
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Old Nov 29th, 2019, 16:30   #4
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If you can install a Sacer yourself this will save £80 but please be aware that these throttle bodies can fail for other reasons as mine did recently. A full Vida check is a wise first move to confirm it is indeed the position sensor fault.
Have look at my post, it's the one below this.

John
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 09:43   #5
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Well I do have a Vida unit, but I lost all the instructions so had to sort out again (all done now), so I ran the ETM test which came back fine (only 1.6 difference).
However, whilst running tests and familiarising myself with Vida, the problem re-appeared and I managed to graph it. Not sure if it helps, but screenshot attached. does Vida save this stuff somewhere so you can re-visit?

I also seem to have hundreds of fault codes recorded from all kinds of things that have happened in the past 5 years. Is it possible to see just the latest ones or should I clear down the lot so I can get a clearer picture?

What else could be causing the erratic running? I have ordered a new MAF sensor, as they are cheap enough, and will see if that makes a difference.
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File Type: jpg ecm etm.JPG (59.6 KB, 23 views)
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Old Dec 2nd, 2019, 17:43   #6
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I suggest you clear all the codes and redo the diagnostic check and note the current codes. The Vida ETM test operates the throttle butterfly from closed to fully open 3 times and records the position sensor outputs but these will be almost identical if you already have Sacer fitted. The graph should show 3 similar parabolic shaped curves as the throttle opens and closes. I did mine with the ETM removed and visible as I did the test, in my case the throttle did not move during the test so I knew it was either the motor or the circuit board inside.
I would expect Vida to identify a Maf fault but I am not a Vida expert.

John
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Old Feb 8th, 2020, 11:54   #7
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Hi John, you seem really helpful and knowledgeable, so I've aimed this at you, or anyone else with this skill level.
So yesterday morning I tackled the ETM replacing the main moving part with an electronic Sacer unit (I am a biomedical electronics engineer, with a pretty high level of mechanical skill from working on IV pumps and similar). I used the basic instructions that I found online, and did not have the information about voltage testing, so I might tear it all open again to take measurements and possibly re-adjust the magnet.
Everything came apart nicely and went together well, and a short trip around the block was enough to convince me that I could re-pot the connections and seal it up fully, which I did.
However, at the end of a 30 minute round trip yesterday evening, the car was worse than I have ever experienced. Lots of surging whilst sat at traffic lights, making me sound like a boy-racer, then it stalled on me twice, and went into limp home mode for a while. I am thinking I have not found the true cause of the problems.

Finding more information online with voltage measurements last night, after the job was all bolted up was annoying - but if the magnet position was badly out, surely the faults would exhibit all the time and not intermittently?
I ran Vida again today and the error codes I have this morning (having cleared everything after the job) are:

CEM-1A5D Communication with ETM control module signal missing
CEM-DF13 CAN-H, High speed network
CEM-DF16 CAN-L, high speed network
ECM-902A Communication with throttle unit- Faulty Signal

Now I'm scared to take it out at busy times or for longer trips until I can remedy this.
Has anyone any ideas or suggestions? Seen this before maybe?
I replaced the MAFS in December, as that was the cheapest item in the chain, but that made no difference.
And in the cold the car is idling perfectly, and throwing no fault codes.

Paul
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Old Feb 16th, 2020, 15:21   #8
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The graph you showed certainly indicates a fault, normally it would show a parabolic curve as the throttle goes from closed to open then closed again repeated 3 times. It is easier to see what is happening if the ETM is removed and placed so you can see the butterfly move while the test proceeds.
From what you have said, and the codes it looks to me like your problem is on the motor/circuit board side of the ETM as my own one was. It could also just be a bad connection or broken wire.
I'm afraid that is about the limit of my knowledge on this subject.

John
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