B230FD Problems :)

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Don't know where you found that article but i don't think it relates to your car!

Could a bad oring on injectors cause bad idling?
I have checked for vacuum leaks. But could it be the intake gasket?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

Could a bad oring on injectors cause bad idling?
I have checked for vacuum leaks. But could it be the intake gasket?

It could but the list of other things it could be is so long that you could replace parts from now until the next millennium and still not sort it.

Really need to a approach this with a proper diagnostic attitude.

First, swap plugs #3 and #4, see if the misfire moves to #3.
If it does, it's the plug.

If it doesn't, swap plug leads #3 and #4. If it moves, it's the plug lead.

If there's no change, get some WD40, have the engine idling and you should be able to hear the misfire as an offbeat sound in an otherwise smooth engine. Spray the WD40 where the inlet manifold joins the head, listening carefully for any slight change in the running.

Don't use the starting fluid or anything like brake cleaner, use WD40 as it is a petroleum distillate so will improve the running if there are any leaks.

Plenty more tests after that but see how those go first.

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

It could but the list of other things it could be is so long that you could replace parts from now until the next millennium and still not sort it.

Really need to a approach this with a proper diagnostic attitude.

First, swap plugs #3 and #4, see if the misfire moves to #3.
If it does, it's the plug.

If it doesn't, swap plug leads #3 and #4. If it moves, it's the plug lead.

If there's no change, get some WD40, have the engine idling and you should be able to hear the misfire as an offbeat sound in an otherwise smooth engine. Spray the WD40 where the inlet manifold joins the head, listening carefully for any slight change in the running.

Don't use the starting fluid or anything like brake cleaner, use WD40 as it is a petroleum distillate so will improve the running if there are any leaks.

Plenty more tests after that but see how those go first.

I’ll try that out. But I forgot to erase faultcodes. Would the ecu still run like crap with faultcodes intact. But really,the faultcodes isn’t existing?

[Laird Scooby]

It won't help the general running if the ECU has still got fault codes stored. However it's full-group injection so it won't usually cause a misfire on just one cylinder.

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

It won't help the general running if the ECU has still got fault codes stored. However it's full-group injection so it won't usually cause a misfire on just one cylinder.

I’m sitting in the car now using my phone.

There’s no faultcodes now. And they didn’t appear again. HT leads are fine. Tried changing the position on the leads and plugs. Still same idling issue. But I noticed when I turn off headlights the tachometer goes to 3-4000rpm and with headlights on it’s between 500-2000rpm

Tried wd40 and there’s no leak.

[Laird Scooby]

Next thing then is a compression check. Engine hot, remove all plugs and the fuel pump relay.

Fit the compression tester as per the instructions to each plug hole in turn, get an assistant to hold the throttle wide open while spinning the engine on the starter until the reading on the gauge stabilises.

Note the figure, reset the compression tester and move to the next plug hole and repeat.

Once all 4 figures are noted, refit the plugs, fuel pump relay etc and check it starts and runs ok.

After that if the compression figures are even, try swapping #3 and #4 injectors to see if the fault moves.

If the compression figures aren't even, you need to investigate why before trying to swap injectors.

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Next thing then is a compression check. Engine hot, remove all plugs and the fuel pump relay.

Fit the compression tester as per the instructions to each plug hole in turn, get an assistant to hold the throttle wide open while spinning the engine on the starter until the reading on the gauge stabilises.

Note the figure, reset the compression tester and move to the next plug hole and repeat.

Once all 4 figures are noted, refit the plugs, fuel pump relay etc and check it starts and runs ok.

After that if the compression figures are even, try swapping #3 and #4 injectors to see if the fault moves.

If the compression figures aren't even, you need to investigate why before trying to swap injectors.

Compression is fine. I have tested it.
I’ll try swapping injector 4 and 3.
Thanks

Same idling issue. I cleaned the injectors aswell.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

Compression is fine. I have tested it.
I’ll try swapping injector 4 and 3.
Thanks

Same idling issue. I cleaned the injectors aswell.

When did you check the compression? Recently since this latest problem? Did you use the method i described?

[Laird Scooby]

What is the Bosch number on those injectors? Should be 10 digits starting "0 280"

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

When did you check the compression? Recently since this latest problem? Did you use the method i described?

Yes, I recently took a compression test to a dealer