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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Changing front window and locking motor assyViews : 4850 Replies : 31Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 27th, 2012, 22:24 | #11 |
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Location: London / Essex
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Not sure what you mean by "blue spring clip". The S80 is a completely different car than the S40.
I will have a look on VIDA and post the instructions in a while
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
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Aug 28th, 2012, 17:55 | #13 |
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Making progress, now have to remove cable
Folks:
I have made good progress in removing the right rear door actuator in the S80/2004 version. So, now I have removed the actuator motor and attempting to remove the cable from the door handle(interior). However to remove the housing there are are 4 rivets(or other that I don't know holding the housing). Does anybody know how to remove? Thanks. A picture is attached.(I hope it is, the message said so!) |
Aug 28th, 2012, 18:02 | #14 |
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No picture attached. Also, it might be a good idea to post in the S80 section http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19 as most of us here are S40 owners. Over there you might get more help.
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
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Aug 29th, 2012, 13:55 | #15 |
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Well, I figured out how to do 1) remove the outside door linkage rod from the clip. Came out with a screwdriver used as a wedge to pop it out.
The rail(2nd item), had a screw at the bottom, that I removed and shoved the rail out of the way, a bit, and was able to extract the actuator. However, once I got the actuator out, I had to remove the cable, and I thought the I had to remove the cable at the inside door handle. However the handle enclosure is held with rivets of some sort that I didn't want to mess with. So in despair I went to Volvo and said give me an estimate to put this back together. A really nice tech gave me a great clue, he said to remove the cable at the actuator end. Its held by a clip, that if you pop open, the cable drops out. I did that and I was in business. Reversed the procedure and now I have a working lock, no buzzing, etc. Thanks to "gatos" for the above guide,without which I would not have the fortitude to attack this problem. I want to show a couple of pictures, and the uploads have failed. I'll try again, but if I don't succeed, the above pictures are excellent and will do. Except for removing the cable clip on the actuator assembly, its all here. |
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Aug 29th, 2012, 14:04 | #16 |
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Glad you got it sorted. I am sure the S80 is a different beast and much more complicated than our S/V40s.
To upload photos, you need to make sure they are smaller than 1600x1600 and less than 390kb in size. Or use photobucket like I have done so
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
Last edited by gatos; Aug 29th, 2012 at 14:14. |
Aug 29th, 2012, 16:25 | #17 |
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drivers door
hi alex,would you know if its easy enough to remove the wiring from the inside of the drivers door on my volvo v40 1.9d 2003,as i have a fault with my drivers door not locking(tried wd etc)...then while i had the door open i just happened to move the wiring in between the drivers door(see picture)and i pressed the locking switch on the door and it worked,but then let go of the wiring and it stopped.i took the tape off the wiring but could not see any obvious signs of a fault,but it is awkward to check.thats why i thought if i could remove the wiring from the inside of the door,to make it a bit easier....regards neanderthal.
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Dec 20th, 2012, 14:47 | #18 |
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dear Gatos
is this the same procedure for a T5 , ive bought 2 second hand locks and both will not work. they seem to be in the deadlock position but no matter what i do they will not release. someone mentioned you cannot use second hand locks on these as when they are taken off they lock in the deadlock posdition and csant be released which sounds a bit silly to me... any ideas ? im lost on this one |
Feb 19th, 2013, 18:20 | #19 |
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Thanks for this guide Alex. It was very usefull and helped me just complete the the fitting of a second hand chrome handle to my driver's side.
Just to add to this that if anyone is to try this they will need to be aware of the horizontal rod that holds the chrome handle to the handle back plate and acts as the pivot. This rod can only come out one way due to a flat round head at one end. At the other end the rod has been machined to form 2 small lugs at the end. These have to be ground off to allow the rod to be pulled out of the 2 parts. This was very simple as I just used a small grinding wheel in my hand held drill. The metal is very soft so is easily ground. There is no need to do anything about securing the rod as it is a good fit into the handle and back plate. The trickiest part was locating the assembled handle into the door handle recess and supporting surround inside the door, together with the 2 vertical rods. But job done now, so I'm pleased with the repair. Thanks again to Fat Tony for the supply of the chrome handle. |
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Feb 19th, 2013, 21:47 | #20 |
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Can I make one point, when the door card goes back on make sure that the 'lip' at the top sits over correctly and flush with the glass (pic 6). Found that out after spending 15 minutes scratching my head wondering why there was a gap, doh.
Gatos, do you know if the plastic door lock that protrudes up when you lock and unlock the doors unscrews off the metal 'pole'
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