V40 stalling

[Mystroe]

A bit of background to this problem.

In the last week, my oil light has been coming on as I drive around corners.

Friday just gone, somebody tried to steal my V40 - suffice to say it was laden with builder's tools.

Saturday, the kids were playing in the car (after I'd taken most of the tools out).

Sunday morning, the battery was flat - the drivers door was ajar and I distinctly remember one of my kids opening it the day before- presumably the internal lights had drained the battery.

I tried to jump start the car with my neighbour's car hooked up to the battery - but after 20 minutes gave up and nipped down to a car parts store and picked up a new battery.

Installed the new battery and my V40 started up instantly. Took it for a drive down the road and mysteriously it now stalls quite a bit when I put the brakes on - with clutch down.

All suggestions appreciated. (Previously for a year or so if the engine was idling for some time it would stall)

Could it be the low oil levels?

Prior to the attempted theft, the dashboard warning for lights were on. One registration plate bulb had gone. I changed this. But for some reason both the dipped head lights are not working. I changed one dipped headlight bulb, and this doesn't work. Perhaps a relay or fuse?

Any suggestions on troubleshooting the stalling would be well appreciated.


(Lastly - might be relevant - I had a low battery incident some months ago - with a worrying warning light on the dashboard. After investigating I found that it was the immobiliser warning light - but since I was driving around with no problems - it begs the questions whether the immobiliser works or not?)

[Mystroe]

[Condensed version]

Car stalls when I apply brakes and clutch. All suggestions appreciated

[CharlesStevenson]

I don't know whether my comment's relevant but if your car's got the GDI engine I recollect on here that when a battery is reconnect the electronic gizmo's have to 'relearn' your engine and this can cause problems.

I don't own a GDI myself so others on here can call this 'rubbish' if I've got it wrong & apologies in advance, but it might be what's caused the problem.

Don't know what the cure is if that's the issue - perhaps a search on here might help.

One other thought, perhaps jumping the car caused the problem - not all electrics take jumping too well?

Good luck in getting it sorted.

[CharlesStevenson]

... the dead dipped beam 'might' be caused by u/s relays - if so they are a quickish fix when you pull the light control unit & can be replaced by soldering in new'uns (about £2.50 a pr)

But it's best to get the other stuff working also in case that's the cause not the relays.

[ITSv40]

With regards the oil light coming on when going round corners: have you not thought of pulling the dipstick and physically checking the oil level - it is the only way. Chances are the dipstick will be dry.

[V40T4R]

Maybe the dreadful wire loom under the radiator....

[canis]

These are all unrelated issues.

The oil light comes on for only two reasons: Either there is a serious mechanical problem, or the engine hasn't been routinely serviced. Change the oil immediately. Or call a taxi.

The lights are an electrical problem. Faulty wiring, or damaged electronics. Remote diagnosis for this will need a seperate thread of it's own.

The stalling is undoubtedly caused by the engine's electronic system needing to re-learn, it needs to measure engine conditions for data on which to base it's decisions, and lacking that data it will make mistakes. You could argue (with absolute validity) that a stalling engine is something it could learn from in a "oops, I'd better not do that again" type of way, and I would agree with you, but we didn't program the thing.

The re-learn procedure is described here by our resident GDi guru, druid:
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...57&postcount=4

Show your car some love.

[ITSv40]

How do we know the OP has a GDi, or is it a case of assuming he does by the symptoms described.

[canis]

Oh, good point, I mis-read Charles' reply. My error.

[Mystroe]

Thanks all for the replies. Really do appreciate it.

Ahh yes - must confess it is a GDI. Now despite some other members doubts - I stand by the GDI and think it's a good motor. Perhaps my next vehicle will be a mistsubishi or even a volvo! Only downside of the GDI I can attest to is, um, changing the battery.

I've tried the relearn procedure, minus the cleaning of the throttle body/valve. Thanks Canis and Druid. Car tends to cut out after about 7-8 minutes of idling in neutral. When driving around, it's better once the motor has warmed up but still getting stalling.

Topped up with engine oil - so no more oil light. I've always found it difficult to read the dipstick on this car.

Will look into the relays for the lights.