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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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New to me 940Views : 5704 Replies : 100Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 23rd, 2020, 16:49 | #1 |
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New to me 940
I'm back in the volvo scene with a newly purchased 1991 940 estate off ebay. 2.3 manual, b230fb engine. 173k on the clock (but the speedo is not working!).
plenty of bits to be getting on with -speedo not working -lamba light permanently on -exhaust leak -unknown when last service was/any work carried out as no paperwork!! -will only start after priming pump 3/4 times (cycling key and listening to fuel pump) -headlining falling down very very little rust, almost none - i was very surprised. my plan of action is: -new plugs, leads -oil & filter -injectors out and clean/rebuild -gearbox oil -diff oil -intake manifold clean -flame trap clean -possibly new fuel pump -or pressure regulator im guessing, not got haynes manual yet... but it does drive alright, not sure how much effort the back brakes are giving... but no nasty noises from anywhere, engine sounds sweet and the exhaust pipe is extremely clean hopefully that confirms no fluid burning and its happy days... |
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Jul 23rd, 2020, 18:49 | #2 |
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Welcome to the forum, I saw that one on ebay and thought it looked very tidy.
I've got a sunroof and non sunroof headlining for sale if you want one, happy to fit it too. Make sure you use a genuine Volvo oil filter as it has a non return valve in the filter where as the cheap brands don't (genuine Volvo is £7). Pull fuse #1 for 30 seconds to reset the fault codes, this will remove the lambda light then if it comes back on you know there is a problem. Being an early one there should be a self diagnosis code reader in the engine bay to tell you the fault codes it has. But make sure you do the reset with the fuse first as there's no telling what codes will be in there or how long they've been in there. Early ones have a low pressure lift pump in the tank and a high pressure pump under the floor, I believe the ones in the tank start to fail. |
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Jul 23rd, 2020, 20:53 | #3 |
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Cam Belt and Auxiliary Belts.
Together with all the other engine stuff, very near the top of the list needs to be the cam belt and auxiliary belts.
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Ian. Since 2005: 1992 Volvo 940 estate 2.0L. Manual. Daily driver and workhorse. |
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Jul 23rd, 2020, 23:12 | #4 |
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Add a fuel filter to your list of service items and when you fit the plugs gap them to 0.6-0.7mm - try and get NGK plugs, they seem to be about the best available at the moment.
Leads, go for Bougicord and while you're replacing igntion bits, remove the dizzy cap and inspect the rotor arm and the carbon brush inside the cap. The carbon brushes have a habit of either breaking or falling out. Also check the coil LT connections, red/blue should be on the +ve terminal, if some monkey has swapped them around that will give poor starting too. Like Luke said, pull fuse #1 for at least 30 seconds to clear the fault codes and Engine Management Light, as you're doing a service and replacing various bits, i'd suggest pulling it before you start and replacing when you've finished - chances are it won't run with it out. If the EML comes back on afterwards, note how long it takes, where the temp gauge is/how hot the engine is. Then find a layby (assuming it's taken a few minutes to come on) and pull over, switch off and pull fuse #1 again for 30 seconds or so. Refit and continue the test drive. If the EML remains off, chances are the Lambda sensor heater circuit has burned out. There are a few more possibilities that it could be but let's take things one step at a time and see if the service improves the cold starting first! PS - still waiting for the pics of your instrument cluster to try and help out on the speedo fault!
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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Jul 24th, 2020, 09:12 | #5 |
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Your exhaust leak can also be the cause of the lambada / EML light being on.
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V70 D5 SE Geartronic 215bhp Saville Grey 2012MY 940 LPT Manual 1996 740 SE 1990 |
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Jul 24th, 2020, 15:31 | #6 |
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Injectors clean - Not sure I would bother, new seals might be a simple prevantative, but check for leaks first.
Intake manifold clean - Just do the throttle body and nipples. Fuel pump - there are 2, 1 in-tank lift pump, 1 external pressure pump. In-tank one is a pain. external V easy. May need to change 1 or both. Probably worth doing both if you can. It will get worse quickly. Read the ignition and fuel codes from the flashy light in the engine bay. Speedo could be sensor in the diff, or dodgy speedo. For faults diagnose rather than replace, for maintenance replace/clean. |
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