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Carrying LH 2.4 spare parts

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Old Aug 15th, 2018, 09:03   #11
Clifford Pope
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angie View Post
I don't have much of a clue about the ignition amplifier, presumably it provides a stronger spark, so would its failure cause the engine to die or merely lose power?
In my experience they either work or fail totally.
I've had two fail, on different cars. One was nearing home when the engine suddenly stopped dead, and nothing would make it restart. I swapped in a spare amplifier and it started first shot and was trouble-free afterwards.

The other cut out while the car was idling in the drive. Again, a replacement fixed it.

I've once had a AMM fail. The car suddenly started running badly, spluttered, the lambda light came on, and it cut out. It started again, and ran reasonably well, not quite up to par. Diagnosis showed it was the AMM.
I think when they fail the system switches to a limp-home mode, which is a default setting which is almost OK - useable, but poor.

Poor or erratic starting I've found is usually the CPS. I had trouble with one over a period. Mostly the car started instantly, at other times it refused to start, but always did eventually. Once started it ran fine. I think it might be the wires or the insulation fraying, so might depend on engine movement, rather than a fault actually in the sensor body.

The fuel pump relay can go at any time, either spasmodically or suddenly. So too can fuse contacts. As in my experience this is easily the most common cause of poor starting or misfiring, I'd always;
1) - twiddle fuses 4 and 6
2) - jump terminals 4 and 6 with your handy short lead with a clip on each end. This bypasses the relay and runs the pumps continuously.
3) swap the amplifier

Those are quick tests, done in seconds, with a good chance of getting you moving.
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Old Aug 15th, 2018, 15:17   #12
Stephen Edwin
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Angie I don't want to misrepresent your air mass meter experience. I think you have bought a Volvo unit from Brookhouse which needed replacing, and the replacement is not entirely satisfactory so you are using a second hand air mass meter now? I was luckier. I bought for less from a Volvo dealer and it is fully satisfactory.

Re what fails how, from what I hear in the forum, "It Varies!"

e.g. that air mass meter. Yours was I think not so much a failure as poor performance of the car? Clifford describes a limp-home usable mode. My air mass meter failure left the car in nurse it home VERY gently mode. Almost un-driveable. Resting the car at frequent short intervals. I was not sure the car could get home and it was only a few miles.

e.g. the coolant temperature sensor. It is said downstairs in the 700/900 section those usually fail such that the engine will start including start when cold. But in that thread the item failed so that the car would not start from cold.

Hey ho. Life can be fun.

One good thing Angie is, you found those ceramic fuses that have brass or copper fusible wire, not aluminum. Those fuses should stop corrosion occurring at the fuse terminals, so far less chance of fuse problems. Cushti. Well done and thanks.

Clifford that is very useful advice of what is actually likely to fail, and how things are likely to fail, and a sequence of checking. Thank you.

I tend towards carrying spares, as well as my AA membership. As I've said, one can be unlucky with a particular patrolman. One could be pushed in to using a local garage for repair away from home, depends on T&C of Recovery. And maybe the local garage will fail with these modern classic cars. And...if I'm going from A to B I don't really want to be recovered back to A. That is the fail safe protection I have had since the AA offered Recovery as an option. But If I'm going to B I want to go there, and if I get recovered to B I might then be stranded trying get a repair. EEK.

Thanks to all who have contributed in this thread. I've learnt from you all.


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Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Aug 15th, 2018 at 15:20.
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Old Aug 17th, 2018, 16:59   #13
Stephen Edwin
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Clifford.

You have recommended having a spare ignition amplifier mounted to a spare heat sink. And possibly letting that "dangle" as a get home measure.

Is that in case of adverse conditions or circumstances at the roadside? Is any part of the job tricky? Are the screws holding the heat sink to the wing potentially tricky?

Thanks.
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Old Aug 17th, 2018, 18:41   #14
Clifford Pope
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Not exactly tricky, but it's tucked in that space between the battery/wing/headlight. I think it's held by 2 self-tapping screws, so always a potential for them being rusted or the heads full of rust/paint.
From memory it's easier with the battery removed and a stubby screwdriver. Or perhaps they are those horrible torx screws that Volvo liked on later cars instead of phillips?

I only suggested keeping a spare ready-mounted on a heat sink because then it won't overheat not fixed to the wing until convenient, and you can swap the amplifier over in seconds even in the dark just by unplugging.
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Old Aug 18th, 2018, 14:46   #15
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Thanks you Clifford. I've looked at mine. Those screws are indeed torx. T25. I can get a good grip to the screw near the battery, using a 1/4 drive ball end T25 bit I happen to have. Otherwise that battery would indeed have to be taken out. One could be on a hard shoulder in the dark &c. with no lights on the car while fixing a replacement amp. EEK. Or waiting for a breakdown service patrol.

So your plan of having a spare amp. ready prepared mounted to a spare heat sink is doubly useful. Thanks again.

That ball end T25 is useful also for the coil fixing screw on my car, but I see coil fixing brackets vary between 240 models.
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Old Aug 24th, 2018, 22:18   #16
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Clifford. This entire thread arises from advice you have given at times about the trinity of LH spares to carry. And your contributions to this thread have expanded that list, and have given guidance as to diagnosis.

I just wonder. Would you have the time to write what I for one would hope to be a How To thread in that section. A title such as for example: Spares for LH systems and initial diagnosis of breakdowns and starting difficulties.
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Old Aug 25th, 2018, 08:50   #17
Clifford Pope
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It's very flattering to be asked, but I'm no expert - it's just an accumulation of things I've tried over the years that have tended to work for me. Anything else, I'm as ignorant as the next person.
What would be really useful would be something like you suggest, but expanded with some technical detail from a real expert, as to what these components actually do, what goes wrong, how they fail, perhaps how to diagnose properly rather then just swapping things until it works.

I'm sure we used to have people who had this level of technical/electrical expertise, but we don't get their contributions to threads any more.
There's a lot of this kind of thing on Brickboard - they do technical stuff in much more detail over there - but their models are different and most owners seem to be much more technically-fluent than we are.

For example, I discovered that "LH 2.4" is not a single identical system running unchanged for the duration, but was continuously modified over time with upgraded specifications.
(I found this when I noticed that mine has a 5th injector underneath the inlet manifold, apparently for cold-starts. It's an early version, actually "LH 2.4 :1" or some such designation. Although using the same Crank Position Sensor, the processor responds in a slightly different way.
I was worried when I got the car (1991) that it was a bit slower to start than my previous 1993. But that's normal - later cars pick up the flywheel position immediately so my 93 would fire up almost before I'd released the key. The earlier one needs one complete revolution before it knows where it is, so starts after 2 seconds of cranking. )

Not many people know this, and most swear that LH2.4 has 4 injectors only.
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Old Aug 31st, 2018, 09:16   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifford Pope View Post
It's very flattering to be asked, but I'm no expert - it's just an accumulation of things I've tried over the years that have tended to work for me. Anything else, I'm as ignorant as the next person.
What would be really useful would be something like you suggest, but expanded with some technical detail from a real expert, as to what these components actually do, what goes wrong, how they fail, perhaps how to diagnose properly rather then just swapping things until it works.

I'm sure we used to have people who had this level of technical/electrical expertise, but we don't get their contributions to threads any more.
There's a lot of this kind of thing on Brickboard - they do technical stuff in much more detail over there - but their models are different and most owners seem to be much more technically-fluent than we are.

For example, I discovered that "LH 2.4" is not a single identical system running unchanged for the duration, but was continuously modified over time with upgraded specifications.
(I found this when I noticed that mine has a 5th injector underneath the inlet manifold, apparently for cold-starts. It's an early version, actually "LH 2.4 :1" or some such designation. Although using the same Crank Position Sensor, the processor responds in a slightly different way.
I was worried when I got the car (1991) that it was a bit slower to start than my previous 1993. But that's normal - later cars pick up the flywheel position immediately so my 93 would fire up almost before I'd released the key. The earlier one needs one complete revolution before it knows where it is, so starts after 2 seconds of cranking. )

Not many people know this, and most swear that LH2.4 has 4 injectors only.
Great info, I was wondering why my recently acquired Nov 1990 b200f turns over for a few secs more than I would expect to start up despite being seemingly in great shape.
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