|
700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
Information |
|
Should I be worried?Views : 1810 Replies : 30Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Jul 21st, 2018, 21:44 | #11 | |
Experienced Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:45
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: L/H side
|
Quote:
however the most likely cause is the rubber seal rings in the oil pick up pipe in the sump , there are several which seal the pick up and other oil pipes in the sump , they allow air to be sucked in instead of oil . You could fit a mechanical pressure gauge in the oil light switch hole to measure the pressure and get an idea of what is going on .
__________________
My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience . |
|
Jul 22nd, 2018, 06:07 | #12 | |
Pain in the backside
Last Online: Today 02:26
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Newport
|
Quote:
^What he said Before the 1st engines death on my dads v90, That was one of the things that was evident. Dissection of buggered engine, found knackered and perished o rings. |
|
Aug 16th, 2018, 15:42 | #13 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Apr 20th, 2024 18:56
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
|
Finally got round to buying a new pressure switch. Then I started to look for the old one. Finally found it towards the back of the engine, about as far away from the oil filter as it's possible to be without being on the gearbox! It's just about visible from under the car and pretty much totally inaccessible without some serious dismantling.
Now changing the switch would be great, as would be the fitting of a pressure gauge, but given the location of the switch neither option is immediately practical. My worry is that even if I get the old switch out, getting the new one in, oil tight and working would be seriously challenging. I might ask a garage if they can help. IF the car was on a ramp, and IF a very flexible socket extension was to hand then it MIGHT be do-able. I really don't know what to do now - still, the switch was only £8! Jack |
Aug 16th, 2018, 18:49 | #14 |
VOC member
Last Online: Mar 27th, 2024 18:04
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Dudley
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to rwdkev For This Useful Post: |
Sep 29th, 2018, 18:03 | #15 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Apr 20th, 2024 18:56
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
|
Well fitting the new pressure switch never happened. I asked a couple of garages who just couldn't easily get to the old switch, and weren't prepared to spend hours trying.
So I decided to change the oil and fit a new filter, and rather than trust a garage I made up my mind to do it myself. It was of course a breeze. Drained the old oil - surprisingly dirty after just 3,000 miles, and removed the filter. It was marked TJ - which I think is a Quinton Hazell brand. I checked the QH website - which was broken, but I did find several other on-line sources, some that said it was the correct filter, and some that said that it wasn't! When I looked inside it was definitely different to the one which I bought to replace it. That replacement was a Mann filter - the brand I'd always used for my 300k mile V70. For oil I've used fully-synth 5w-30 Petronas. Since then I've seen that the old light definitely doesn't delay going out, so I have to work on the assumption that the old oil and filter were simply not up to the job. Jack |
Sep 29th, 2018, 18:14 | #16 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:44
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
With that information Jack, i'd suggest keeping an eye on the oil level and when it drops (if it drops) top up with some Carlube ATF-U to help clean the engine internals, revive the oil seals and help your hydraulic tappets to stay quiet.
I suspect the oil/filter changes have been neglected more than somewhat so you may find for the first year or two you need to change the oil more frequently than you'd expect, just to keep it clean. The Petronas is a good oil, i know several people that use it, if i had an engine that called for it then i'd probably use it as well. Mine need a 10W40 semi-synth so i use Gulf which so far has done very well but as a friend put it, "smells a bit 1969" because it's a bit pungent (not as bad as Castrol GTX though!) although not as nostril-achingly pungent as Castrol! Glad you seem to have it sorted! PS - i always thought TJ Filters were a sub-brand of Fram, don't know why!
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Sep 29th, 2018, 19:55 | #18 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:44
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
It's a white block, S90, 3.0 i think. If you have one and haven't tried some ATF, preferably synthetic, added to your engine oil to quieten the noisy tappets, you'll be amazed when you do!
I've been using it for about 20 years in anything i've owned that has had hydraulic tappets for that reason alone and have also used it on some with solid tappets, just to clean the internals and revive the seals. Had a Jeep Cherokee 4.0HO a few years back and that had 3 very noisy tappets. It sounded like 3 pile-drivers inside the engine! Did an oil/filter change and as it took about 6.8L i substituted 1.5L of engine oil for ATF-U and ran it. Over the course of 1000 miles or thereabouts, the tappets got quieter and quieter until they were totally silent. It pulled a lot better, was better on fuel, started easier and the oil leaks it had went. As you'll see from my signature, i also have a Rover 827 - these are known for top end rattle as well, especially when cold. I also used to have an 827 Coupé which sounded almost as bad as the Jeep when i first got it. When i sold it, the tappets were silent, as are the tappets in my Sterling. Once in a blue moon, one or two will tick a little during warm up, usually when it's getting near an oil/filter due date for change. I have also used it in my 760, which although it has solid tappets, sounded very tappety when i first got it, the oil was filthy and the filter was blocked. Like the Jeep, the 760 takes more than 5.0L of oil so i substituted 1L of ATF-U for 10W40 semi-synth to make up the 6L it needs to slurp. The engine got quieter (the tappets still need adjusting but sounds nicer now), the oil leaks have gone, it runs sweeter and nicer overall and the oil is staying cleaner with less blocking of the PCV system. You wouldn't put up with a new white block with top end rattle, why put up with it just because it's got a few miles on the clock?
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Sep 30th, 2018, 14:48 | #19 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Apr 20th, 2024 18:56
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
|
Thanks Dave. Yes, I'm going to change the oil every 5,000 come what may, and use a Mann filter. Previously the car had been serviced by Volvo, with every serviced from new recorded. But at just 89,000 when I bought it, that's only 4,500 per year, and I reckon it's probably suffered from under-use a bit. However, I'd like to keep it for a good long time, so a 5k interval with fully-synth 5w-30 is what it'll get from here on. I'll try the ATF trick too, although the top end doesn't really rattle at all now.
The other thing I've "cured" is the squeaky front suspension. A squirt of PTFE spray on the wishbone bushes, and on the ARB ones as well, seems to have sorted it. I'm going to get some poly bushes for the ARB though, as the originals certainly don't look to be in good shape. The bushes themselves are not available from Volvo, but there is a SuperFlex alternative listed. The car has a hefty 24mm ARB, the bushes for which look to be a special order from Superflex. But it's a fabulous car! Sadly I managed to clip the rear bumper on a low gate post, but I'm sorting it out myself. The damage is very low down on the OSR quarter of the bumper, and well within my rattle-can capabilities. Last on the list for now is a possible LPG conversion. I was made redundant last month, so the luxury of a 6-mile commute has been lost. Am starting a new job tomorrow but it's 25 miles away, so the fuel bill is going to climb a bit. I had a p1 V70 on LPG for 10 years and 250,000 miles, and so I'm perfectly happy with doing the same to the S90. I might just include a top-end lube kit though. The V70 had the 10v engine and was very happy on LPG, but this 24v beastie might just do a bit better with the lube kit. We shall see. Cheers Jack Last edited by capt jack; Sep 30th, 2018 at 14:51. |
The Following User Says Thank You to capt jack For This Useful Post: |
Sep 30th, 2018, 15:26 | #20 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:44
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
I'd be jumping all over getting the LPG conversion ASP with a 50 mile a day commute! Making the figures simple (not necessarily entirely accurate but ball-park close enough) that's a gallon each way at 25mpg and £6 a gallon so £12 a day or £60/wk just in fuel. That's £3k a year to all intents and purposes!
With LPG about half the price of petrol, that's roughly £1500/year or £30 a week saving. Glad you found another job so quickly too!
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|