Ignition problem

[arcturus]

Took the PV out today and it ran alright for the first 20 min's and then just died. Had to get recovery home. Fuel getting through but no spark at plug or back to HT lead. Does a coil just let go or are there warning symptoms first?

[Ron Kwas]

arcturus;

...sorry to hear...!

It is extremely rare to have an Ign Coil itself simply fail(!), although I suppose it could happen...loss of spark is more likely a result, caused by some silly little thing like a fatigued Points Wire falling off, or the Distributor Through-Bolt loosening and shorting to the Dist case, causing loss of Points Opening function.

See: http://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignitio...ition%20System

BTW...I'd rather perform some instant troubleshooting and repairs, on the side of the road using my Swiss army knife, and possibly sacrifice a "Sunday Shirt", than to suffer the indignity of allowing my neighbors to see a car of mine coming home on a flat-bed...but that's just me...

Good Hunting!

[arcturus]

Problem solved, it was condenser again, not the usual warning hiccups before hand. I seem to need to change condensers more frequently than oil! I'm sick and tired of changing condensers, I think that I will change to a 123. as soon as funds allow.
Photo of points, note if possible the white rime on points edge, fortunately no pitting
In a way I have been lucky, I hadn't intended to take the PV today, a last minute decision to check out the 12V converters, as I will be going to a rally with it in the North of Portugal on 14 March. Round trip of over 1000km. So it happened at the right time. So far no problem with them.

[Ron Kwas]

arcturus;

...happy you got it sorted!

I've been hearing of more failed Condensers recently than ever before...and I've experienced one myself, when those things never used to fail...it was just totally unheard of! ...is the failed part an official Bosch part , or I fear some china s**t counterfeit part? I bet the later! I hate those p***s for that...those guys could f**k up a junk yard! Needless to say: Buy Bosch from a reputable source and stay away from shoddy china s**t goods for that 1000km rallye!

Happy Easter to All!

[arcturus]

Am I correct in thinking that all condensers are pretty much all the same as far as values are concerned? other than fitting. I have taken to carrying spares with me most of the time in my tool box. I think that now i will carry a spare with the necessary small tools in the glove box from now on so that I can change one at the side of road if necessary.

[simonvolvo]

You may want to try the following for carrying as a spare:

Go to an electronics components shop and buy an ordinary Mylar capacitor 0.22 μF (or thereabouts), 630 volt (or thereabouts) and fit an eye terminal to each end. (Who needs a metal can?)

Won’t cost you more than a few pennies.

[simonvolvo]

Originally Posted by arcturus

Problem solved, it was condenser again, not the usual warning hiccups before hand. I seem to need to change condensers more frequently than oil! I'm sick and tired of changing condensers, I think that I will change to a 123. as soon as funds allow.
Photo of points, note if possible the white rime on points edge, fortunately no pitting

I spy surface rust on the outside of your distributor body.

Are you sure there was good electrical continuity all the way from the condenser can to the car chassis, including between the condenser can and distributor body? Important, particularly if you run at 6 volts.

What made you conclude that the condenser was the problem? Could it not be that the act of swapping condensers serendipidously resulted in changing the electrical continuity from bad to good, and had nothing to do with the condenser itself?

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by simonvolvo

I spy surface rust on the outside of your distributor body.

Are you sure there was good electrical continuity all the way from the condenser can to the car chassis, including between the condenser can and distributor body? Important, particularly if you run at 6 volts.

What made you conclude that the condenser was the problem? Could it not be that the act of swapping condensers serendipidously resulted in changing the electrical continuity from bad to good, and had nothing to do with the condenser itself?

Had it been down to poor connectivity it wouldn't have happened instantaneously. Having had quite a few go belly up on on my cars I get to recognize the symptoms. But I do take your point.

[Ron Kwas]

underdrive & Simon; ...great info from both of you...I haven't measured one yet, but given your info, would certainly also expect a value in that range...regarding failure mechanism, the (Bosch) one I had fail had worked fine without issue before an extended lay-up of a car, then, after re-commissioning, failed when trying to rev engine...idled fine, but broke down and shorted intermittently killing the ignition when trying to drive...that was a tricky one to find...I suspect ingress of moisture during storage compromising the dielectric...

Simon; I understand the "ringing" of Primary L and C based on values and max expected RPM...I would expect value to be less dependent on V of system...but, given these Ign systems are somewhat different (different R and L?) from more typical ign systems with Ballast resistors, do you have any insight or thoughts on what the C-value would be for one of those ign systems?

Regarding corrosion on C connections on arcturus' vehicle...I hope with my constant preaching of "clean and tight connections, preferably treated with ACZP", his chassis connections didn't suffer from issues, but I do understand you had to ask...

Cheers