Saving Kiloran's 940

[stephend]

Just catching up on this thread. Looking excellent, Luke!

[360beast]

The disintegrating reverse switch has been replaced


IMG-20211024-WA0031 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

Next up the waterpump seals and gasket, I was pleased to see the aftermarket pump is an SKF one


20211019_132926 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20211019_132932 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20211019_134332 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

The thermostat was recently replaced on Kilorans engine so a new seal was fitted and on it went.


20211019_135738 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

Then I swapped over the top cam cover from Kiorans engine as the one on this engine was falling apart.


20211019_140200 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

I swapped the alternator over on to the replacement engine and fitted/tensioned the new belt


20211019_141808 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

Air filter changed


20211019_142202 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

I then went to refit the IACV hoses and noticed a split in one so again the ones of the original engine were utilised


20211019_142328 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

New sump plug washer


20211024_140150 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

The sump was thick with sludge in the bottom, I used a lot of degreaser and elbow grease cleaning it up, I couldn't get it perfect but it is a massive improvement!


20211024_141622 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20211024_142526 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20211024_143938 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20211024_143954 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

The outside needed a clean too, there is some sort of stonechip paint on it that wouldn't come off


20211024_150226 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20211024_144903 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

The sump bolts were torqued to 11Nm as per the manual, the trick with the sump bolts is to torque them all up and then go around and do it again as the gaskets squashes slightly it means by the time you get to the last one the rest aren't torqued up properly.

This is pretty self explanatory


IMG-20211024-WA0034 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


IMG-20211024-WA0035 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


IMG-20211024-WA0037 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


IMG-20211024-WA0038 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


IMG-20211024-WA0040 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


IMG-20211024-WA0039 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


IMG-20211024-WA0025 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


IMG-20211024-WA0027 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

It then started peeing down so i couldn't get photos of the stonechip and underseal withit risking water getting on it so I'll get some photos of that tomorrow.

The sectio that was removed had been repaired previously but it looks like it was just plated over rust so it rotted from the inside out.


IMG-20211024-WA0029 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

[360beast]

2021-10-25_09-28-36 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


2021-10-25_09-29-04 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

The underside has been undersealed and the top has been painted with stone chip. Any bits of surface rust in the area have been painted with a coat of wax/underseal/any old left over dregs of goop that all gets chucked in a pot. It works very well and is much better than waxoyl in the sense that it actually works unlike waxoyl!

[kiloran]

Nice. Is there usually an arch liner under those holes under the battery tray? Or is the whole thing open to the elements?

[360beast]

Originally Posted by kiloran

Nice. Is there usually an arch liner under those holes under the battery tray? Or is the whole thing open to the elements?

They're open as they are the drains for any liquid that gets in there off road spray or the washer bottle etc. The arch liner stops a couple of inches above where the weld repair stops and can be seen in the 2nd photo

[360beast]

Distributor refitted with new oil seal, fibre washers and o-rings


20211027_102714 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

New spigot bearing fitted


20211027_103526 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

I cleaned the flywheel up (photo is a half and half shot) and refitted it and the bolts were torqued to 70Nm


20211027_104008 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

New clutch kit fitted, the pressure plate bolts were torqued to 25Nm


20211027_112028 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

I removed the release bearing, cleaned up the shaft with some WD40 and then greased it up with a smear of silicone grease


20211027_112507 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

New release bearing fitted


20211027_112539 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

I had lined the clutch up by eye like I always do, it was perfect and the gearbox went straight on


20211027_115449 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

I then refitted the engine and gearbox to the car (no photos) yesterday and today I've been building it all back up.
I didn't take many photos today as I was just trying to get as much done as I could.


IMG-20211028-WA0005 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


IMG-20211028-WA0012 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


2021-10-28_08-42-38 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

I was hoping to get it up and running today but alas the rain had other ideas and it started pouring down! All I've got left to do is connect the heater hoses to the matrix, fill the cooling system and refit the distributor/HT leads but I was wet through and light was failing so I decided to call it a day.

[360beast]

It is all back together and running now.

It is idling steadily but it will start out at 1200rom then climb to 1500rpm and if you touch the throttle it then idles at 2000rpm and won't come down unless I turn it off and on again. I have sprayed wd40 around everything and nothing changed so I don't think there are any air leaks. My number one suspect is someone has messed with the base idle setting 2nd is the idle control valve could be duff/sticking.

The oil pressure light was on too, I suspected the sensor in the block as it was loosely fitted. I believe the guy who sold the engine to Kiloran knew it was duff on his replacement engine so he swapped the two over.

Other than removing the slave cylinder from the bellhouding I haven't touched the clutch hydraulics yet it was so full of air it wouldn't operate the slave cylinder, so I pressure bled it and it is working again now.

So, time to do some fault finding.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by 360beast

It is all back together and running now.

It is idling steadily but it will start out at 1200rom then climb to 1500rpm and if you touch the throttle it then idles at 2000rpm and won't come down unless I turn it off and on again. I have sprayed wd40 around everything and nothing changed so I don't think there are any air leaks. My number one suspect is someone has messed with the base idle setting 2nd is the idle control valve could be duff/sticking.

The oil pressure light was on too, I suspected the sensor in the block as it was loosely fitted. I believe the guy who sold the engine to Kiloran knew it was duff on his replacement engine so he swapped the two over.

So, time to do some fault finding.

With that in mind Luke, it might pay to swap the CTS as well just in case the sensor on the repalcement engine has been "swapped".

[kiloran]

Just a thought - the engine seller used it as a temporary replacement on a turbo 940. Possibly adjusted something to make it play nice with a turbo ECU/loom?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by kiloran

Just a thought - the engine seller used it as a temporary replacement on a turbo 940. Possibly adjusted something to make it play nice with a turbo ECU/loom?

Wouldn't have been necessary , it would have sorted itself out and run as normal. I wonder if the seller used the turbo on it though.