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After market disaster. D5 Cartridge fuel filter.

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Old Jul 1st, 2017, 14:55   #1
Richardkimber
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Angry After market disaster. D5 Cartridge fuel filter.

V70 D5 fuel filter (cartridge type) change, simple.

The "premium" MANN filter cartridge (right photo) top O ring groove is to narrow to allow the O ring to roll and snap into place. So unknowingly you push and push and then chew the O ring.

So old filter replaced and easily snapped into place. What a waste of time and diesel. Not to mention the difficulty trying to get the plastic filter bowl threads to engage

So lesson of the day, always, but always use OEM parts if you want trouble free maintenance.
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Old Jul 1st, 2017, 16:51   #2
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Question

Another relevant question is how do you bleed out the air?
Apart from, part filling the bowl, running the fuel pump x6 for 6 secs, then thrashing the starter to get it to fire after it stalls.

Not a good day !
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Old Jul 1st, 2017, 17:00   #3
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A modified water pump (eg old mini fish tank pump with a length of clear pipe) on the filter outlet and quick hands to put the pipe on once it has pull the fuel through
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Old Jul 1st, 2017, 17:01   #4
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Another relevant question is how do you bleed out the air?
Apart from, part filling the bowl, running the fuel pump x6 for 6 secs, then thrashing the starter to get it to fire after it stalls.

Not a good day !
Yes always the correct parts which are usually better in some way .

To bleed on alder D5 turn the ignition on wait 30 seconds , turn off . repeat 3 or 4 times and it should start .. Later ones 2010 ish and later need to have the fuel pump activated in VIDA for 30 seconds , sometimes more .
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Old Jul 1st, 2017, 22:33   #5
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Yes always the correct parts which are usually better in some way .

To bleed on alder D5 turn the ignition on wait 30 seconds , turn off . repeat 3 or 4 times and it should start .. Later ones 2010 ish and later need to have the fuel pump activated in VIDA for 30 seconds , sometimes more .
Thanks Clan, Obviously did not leave the ignition on long enough.
So I presume it must self bleed through a valve ? Top of filter or at the engine end ?
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Old Jul 1st, 2017, 22:36   #6
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Thanks Clan, Obviously did not leave the ignition on long enough.
So I presume it must self bleed through a valve ? Top of filter or at the engine end ?
The pump in the tank pumps through the filter and carries the air up to the engine main HP Pump then back down the return line to the tank , that is how it flushes the air out of the filter and pipes .
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Old Jul 2nd, 2017, 06:04   #7
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If you open the fuel cap, you'll easily hear the pump run.
When it changes from a bubbly gurgle to a steady thrum, then you've cycled the ignition enough times. The pump runs for about 8-10 seconds with every key cycle, so it's not really a matter of leaving the key on long enough, more making sure there's enough cycles.
Mine started exactly as normal once I'd put 3 or 4 cycles in, it wasn't hard on the starter at all.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2017, 07:39   #8
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Beats my crank until it starts technique.

Ill use this in future.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2017, 09:27   #9
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What is the part number on the dodgy Mann filter? Previously, it has been discussed that Mann do an exact match for the Volvo part and has been used sucessfully in the past: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=231516
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Old Jul 2nd, 2017, 11:21   #10
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What is the part number on the dodgy Mann filter? Previously, it has been discussed that Mann do an exact match for the Volvo part and has been used sucessfully in the past: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=231516
The MANN part number supplied to me was PU823X.

I'm off to the local Volvo dealer Monday to have a look the OEM filter, if they have it in stock !

I have looked at several aftermarket web sites and the pictures all show the narrow otp O ring groove like the MANN filter.
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