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1965 Volvo Amazon (121)

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Old Jan 5th, 2011, 16:09   #41
swedishandgerman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 222s View Post
I'd be very surprised if a 1.5 ton trolley jack will reach the diff whilst still having enough clearance to operate the handle. Even using a big workshop jack, the rear overhang gets in the way:
I think I'm correct in saying that it's a bit different on a saloon to the estate, Paul.

On the saloon it is possible to position the jack slightly offset so that the handle goes up between the spare wheel well and the tank, thus giving you enough space to pump the handle up and down. It's still quite tight for space untill the car is raised up enough.

Can't remember how I used to raise the rear on my Estate, but I do recall that that space isn't there!



PS: So grateful to the guy on this forum who sold me some new bumper corners to replace the horrible mess in the photo!
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Last edited by swedishandgerman; Jan 5th, 2011 at 16:12.
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Old Jan 9th, 2011, 15:54   #42
Jackman
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This weekend has been productive ive removed all of the interior and took the sound proofing type stuff off the floors.... the results have been suprising.

Front passenger, hole over the chassis rail which is also above the bodged area.


Small hole in the corner


Rear drain hole has gotten a bit larger


Mainly surface by the feel of it.


Looks alot worse than it is.


Drivers rear, the holes have been circled. Its not too bad.


Drivers front is solid.


Passenger rear door... lovley rust.


Rear valance... needs replacing


At least the interior is good


Next job, clean the floor up and get rid of the surface rust.
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Old Jan 9th, 2011, 17:20   #43
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Good luck m8, keep at it and keep the pictures coming
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Old Jan 9th, 2011, 19:40   #44
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Yes indeed. Keep em coming. Do you know, it dosent look too bad either, I thought the floor pans would have been worse.
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Old Jan 9th, 2011, 22:16   #45
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Jack;

That doesn't look any worse than the point at which I've bought a lot of Amazons...so don't get discouraged!...keep repairing...that car is just waiting to provide you with an abundance of vintage motoring pleasure of the highest order!

...and I like your new TV room couch BTW...it looks more comfy than the ones they have in the studio on TopGear!...and theirs doesn't have the armrest option...down in cupholder mode for when your watching Totham Hotspur trounce Chelsea with your bud, up when watching Couples Retreat with your Ladyfriend and she wants to snuggle...gosh, those vintage Volvos have it all!

Cheers from Connecticut!
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Old Jan 10th, 2011, 14:47   #46
Jackman
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Thanks for the comments ive not been discouraged at all.... i kinda have a daft aim of getting it done by mid march, including paint as im away for a weekend with friends so would be a good outing for it. Dont think it will happen but it will be a laugh trying to

Ross my name is Chris BTW

Well the result of the wire wheel in the grinder is...

Rear passenger side.

Front of the rear nearest the prop tunnel


Rear


Nearest the door


Under the front seat area


Front corner (You can just see a a hole a bit higher near where the light switch would have been on a LHD, also a small hole above that)


Prop Tunnel and passenger floor


Hole above the chassis rail


Drivers rear floor.


Rear corner


Rear near the prop


The front of the drivers side has two tiny holes which i cant get to show on my camera they disappear when i use the flash.

It doesn't seem too bad.... however the passenger floor pinholes seem to follow the lines of the chassis so that will need a bit of looking at to see if i do small patcher or to cut out the steel around the chassis, clean the inside up clearing any rust and then paint the inside before i replace the floor.

Would have done more but Ive lost the guard for my grinder so will have to wait till i get a replacement.

Also does the chassis rail completly boxed under the floor? Ive done some poking around that hole and it seems to be double skinned?
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Old Jan 12th, 2011, 15:11   #47
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Another update... thought to myself on tuesday... why am i looking for my grinder shield when i can fix the compressor and fire up the plasma cutter so got the compressor up and running yesterday so today this happened.

Setting up the cutter just to cut through the top steel and not the underneath took awhile to get just right but these are the results.

Its rusty underneath but i knew that before i started on the floor but going away from that it seems to stay like new.



After a few inspection holes i decided that i needed to take all the steel above the rails off as there was alot of rust laying in there.



Luckily the rails are nice and strong just need cleaning up and painting before recovering.

Next job is removing some more metal either side of the rails to allow me to plate it better as well as clean up the rails.


A few questions though. On picure 1 and 2 the chassis rail seems to have another peice of steel ontop, is this correct? If so how far should it go down?

Another... aplogies for the rubbish picture couldnt get a good shot of it.

This is the front wheel, there is a trianglar piece of metal coming off the bulkhead and sticking out, i cant seem to see what it is there for. Can anyone tell me what it is for and is it possible to remove it?


On the same note of removing things, is there an easy way of removing the air intake for the heater as there is alot of surface rust behind it?

Thanks

Jackman
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Old Jan 12th, 2011, 15:21   #48
222s
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The triangular piece is just a cover, as the inner wing doesn't extend under that part of the bulkhead / floor.

Given how pitted the floors are even where there aren't holes, it might be worth replacing them completely as good quality replacement floorpans are available.
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Old Jan 12th, 2011, 15:26   #49
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Would it be safe to remove then or would you suggest leaving it?

That is still on my mind about replacing them fully, do it right first time and plenty more years of happy motoring.

Will look around and think (Expect it to get floors as im known to go over the top at times lol)

Lets hope its not too expensive for them all
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Old Jan 12th, 2011, 15:52   #50
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Quote:
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Would it be safe to remove then or would you suggest leaving it?
If you mean the triangular piece, if it's in the way of repairs, then remove carefully, but it will need reinstating, as otherwise road muck will get thrown into the tapered gap between the bulkhead / /floor and top of the chassis rail....

Quote:
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That is still on my mind about replacing them fully, do it right first time and plenty more years of happy motoring.

Will look around and think (Expect it to get floors as im known to go over the top at times lol)

Lets hope its not too expensive for them all
Simon at Brookhouse has them - I have a full set fitted to my car (pics in my project thread on RR). IIRC, the rears were about £85+VAT each (but they are very nice pressings, and pretty much identical to the originals) - can't remember how much the front ones were though, but again, a correct pressing.
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