240 General: B200E Cam Belt Woes

[crcowley]

Good afternoon everyone,

Just wondering if someone out there can offer me any guidance with regards to a cam belt issue on my Volvo 240 GL B200E.

I was following Mike Brace's tutorial (which is excellent!) and all was going well until I had to remove the crankshaft pulley in order to remove the bottom cover. I was able to use the special tool to hold the crank in position while undoing the single nut; however, I had to slightly deviate from the TDC position in order to apply the tool to the pulley and attach it to the tensioner bolt. One I had removed the bolt and pulley, I put the bolt back in to adjust it back to the TDC position; in doing so, the belt has snapped and gone slack, and I fear that there has been slippage in the timing. I am not an expert mechanic, in fact my knowledge is limited so any advice would be very much appreciated! The vehicle hasn't moved for 12 years, hence why the belt has perished. Also, looking at the amount of oil in the cover itself, it looks as if I should be replacing the cam and crank shaft seals too! I have attached some photos.

Many thanks in advance of anyone having some useful advice to get me out of this hole!

Best regards,

Charles.

[Suterman]

can't hurt to replace the seals when you're doing the belt.

Pop the cover and pully back on to re set the crank using the timing marks on the cover and pulley. you can always pull the sparkplug on cylinder 1 and feel for the piston with a screwdriver or similar tool, the cam lobes on 1 should be pointing obliqley upwards at tdc.

[crcowley]

Many thanks.

I haven't worked out how to replace the seals yet - now dreading it in view of my initial mishap! I haven't removed the rear covers yet, so I guess what you are saying is that I should make sure that the cam pulley & crank pulley are lined up per marks to cover? Is that right?

[360beast]

The crank always needs turning past TDC to get the tool in, just turn it back to TDC afterwards and make sure the camshaft and auxiliary shaft are lined up at TDC too and away you go.

You should change the front three seals and front crank housing gasket while you're there.

Cam/aux seals #6842273 you will need two
Crank seal #1276425
Front crank housing gasket #1378493

When you torque up the cam/aux pulley it will probably jump teeth on the cambelt anyway so don't worry about it being timed up perfectly before torquing those up. Once the cam and aux pulley are torqued you can then remove the cambelt and realign everything before fitting it again.

The tensioner needs torquing to 50nm as do the cam and aux pulleys, the crank if I remember correctly is 60nm plus 90 degrees, it could be 60 degrees but I'm having a brain fart ATM.

You will need sealer for the bottom of the crank housing as it sits against the sump gasket so unless you want to change that too put a thin smear of sealant across it. The gasket is also too long so needs the very end cutting off so it doesn't overhang the sump gasket.

Good luck with it and let us know how you get on

Not many people seem to bother with the gasket even though the bolts are usually loose and it leaks oil just as bad as the seal.

[360beast]

Oh and the cambelt should be retentioned after 600 miles, there is a rubber bung in the cambelt cover, remove it and slacken the tensioner nut a couple of turns then retorque to 50nm.

[Chris1Roll]

I have found the crank holding tool could also double up quite well as a cam holding tool- insert the teeth on the tool through the holes on the sprocket and wedge against the water pump.

Even with all of the covers off, you can use a steel rule or some fishing line to find time - strike a line straight through the centre of the crank, through the crank timing marks, through the centre of the cam and onto the mark on the cam pulley. Remember to check through the filler cap that both cam lobes on No1 are pointing obliquely upwards as suterman says.

There are some pictures here:
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/B23...tAlignment.htm

The B200E is an Interference engine (ask me how I know!) However apparently even hitting all four intake valves isn't enough to stop one running, so it's fairly forgiving for a learner!

[Chris1Roll]

Originally Posted by 360beast

Oh and the cambelt should be retentioned after 600 miles, there is a rubber bung in the cambelt cover, remove it and slacken the tensioner nut a couple of turns then retorque to 50nm.

That reminds me I need to do mine.
Now then - engine hot or cold?

I do wonder how often this actually got done back in the day - how many people actually took their cars back do the dealers after 600 miles (or how many were even asked to!)

[crcowley]

Originally Posted by 360beast

The crank always needs turning past TDC to get the tool in, just turn it back to TDC afterwards and make sure the camshaft and auxiliary shaft are lined up at TDC too and away you go.

You should change the front three seals and front crank housing gasket while you're there.

Cam/aux seals #6842273 you will need two
Crank seal #1276425
Front crank housing gasket #1378493

When you torque up the cam/aux pulley it will probably jump teeth on the cambelt anyway so don't worry about it being timed up perfectly before torquing those up. Once the cam and aux pulley are torqued you can then remove the cambelt and realign everything before fitting it again.

The tensioner needs torquing to 50nm as do the cam and aux pulleys, the crank if I remember correctly is 60nm plus 90 degrees, it could be 60 degrees but I'm having a brain fart ATM.

You will need sealer for the bottom of the crank housing as it sits against the sump gasket so unless you want to change that too put a thin smear of sealant across it. The gasket is also too long so needs the very end cutting off so it doesn't overhang the sump gasket.

Good luck with it and let us know how you get on

Not many people seem to bother with the gasket even though the bolts are usually loose and it leaks oil just as bad as the seal.

Many thanks for taking the trouble to advise me on all this.....some fantastic information there, which I definitely haven't come across before. Interesting about the special tool....I was confused when it wouldn't line up, as I thought that was the purpose for it. When I did try to adjust it, the old belt partially broke. It looks like I have some challenges ahead with this job alone, but will keep you posted on how it all goes. Many thanks again....what a brilliant forum this is, people are so helpful.

[crcowley]

Originally Posted by Chris1Roll

I have found the crank holding tool could also double up quite well as a cam holding tool- insert the teeth on the tool through the holes on the sprocket and wedge against the water pump.

Even with all of the covers off, you can use a steel rule or some fishing line to find time - strike a line straight through the centre of the crank, through the crank timing marks, through the centre of the cam and onto the mark on the cam pulley. Remember to check through the filler cap that both cam lobes on No1 are pointing obliquely upwards as suterman says.

There are some pictures here:
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/B23...tAlignment.htm

The B200E is an Interference engine (ask me how I know!) However apparently even hitting all four intake valves isn't enough to stop one running, so it's fairly forgiving for a learner!

Brilliant information here....thank you so much for taking the trouble to reply and help me out. I am quickly discovering that I know nothing about this engine....it's a massive learning curve, but I wanted to challenge myself (although it is feeling like punishment at the moment!!!). Many thanks again.

[Bob Meadows]

Whilst the engine is stripped back for the cam belt it may be worth checking the following:~
The tensioner body needs to be able to slide once the securing nut is loosened, when I adjusted the belt on my car the above had to be worked free as it stuck to the block:
A little copper grease on the main body should keep it free for future adjustments.
Good Luck with car.
Bob.