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Types of engine: reliability etc.

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Old May 19th, 2018, 11:30   #11
baldmosher
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Interestingly the guy I took mine to the other week managed to replace the pipes over the tank without dropping the tank. No idea how he did it but I was thankful!

Incidentally, mine (1.9D 115ps 2003) is on the original turbo. As long as you stick to oil servicing guidance religiously, they don't die.
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Old May 22nd, 2018, 01:15   #12
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baldmosher,
I see you bought that one with 230 K miles on the clock, this would be really rolling the dice for me. Can you tell us what you had to replace or broke down since then ? Engine parts and other ...
And how many miles can one expect from this Volvo model (diesel or petrol )?

Also RE turbo, are they basically the same kind on petrol engine ? And what does the engine oil have to do with the turbo ? I did read there are issues with oil in turbo but that's all I know ...

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Old May 29th, 2018, 23:23   #13
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Okay, I know opinions on this vary, but if I had to do my rear brake pipes again, I'd leave the tank right where it is and work around it. Find an alternative route for the pipes, the tank is an absolute c***, everything is stuck like a b****, rusted to f***, especially those b***** b****** b**** jubilee clips on the f****** fuel filler pipe...

And don't even get me started on that tangled rats nest of fuel pipery!

Just don't. Really. It'll turn you into something you won't like.

EDIT: Unless you find pleasure in overcoming a bolt welded to the car shearing off, laying upside down, with a tank on your chest, trying to wriggle into a better position without straining any pipes or wires too much, or the sheer joy of a jubilee clip which is far too rusty to even think about unscrewing (Dare you to use the angle grinder!) ... Seriously - there are much easier ways to punish yourself.

Last edited by canis; May 29th, 2018 at 23:27.
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Old May 29th, 2018, 23:55   #14
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Even though I stated the tank should come out, I agree totally with Canis. Those jubilee clips are indeed a b****** and I did end up just sawing through both filler and vent hoses because I simply couldn't be bothered and would rather just buy new ones. The fuel pipe routing is indeed unfathomable, but my bolts surprisingly undid with ease! If you want to fit new brake pipes just to keep the car going a bit longer then yes the fuel tank can stay in.

However, Volvo fail to put any form of rust proofing above the tank and under the rear seats, so mine came out in order to cut the rust out and weld two holes underneath the back seat. So if you are planning on keeping your Volvo forever and happen to need a new rear brake pipe (as mine did), then DO take the tank out, grind down the rust, weld up any holes, prime, paint and absolutely DELUGE the bl***y thing with waxoyl... then put the tank back in... if it will fit with all that waxoyl in it's place. Put it this way, if mine happens to catch fire it will burn for days with the amount of waxoyl in all the sills and box sections.

Regarding the turbo question from V40addict, the turbo needs to receive a constant flow of good clean oil. Therefore it has a pressurised oil feed in and an oil drain which goes straight back to the sump. No oil feed to turbo means siezey siezey and bad things happen. When a turbo gets old the bearing starts to get play which in turn knackers the oil seal, so the oil then gets mixed with the air and burnt. An advanced stage is blue exhaust smoke. Or on a diesel, you may notice the cars new idling speed is around 7000rpm with the key out of the ignition, plumes of smoke comes out the back, a crowd gathers, fire engines arrive, and eventually the engine runs out of oil and siezes up into a great big metal mess.
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Old May 30th, 2018, 19:08   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baldmosher View Post
Interestingly the guy I took mine to the other week managed to replace the pipes over the tank without dropping the tank. No idea how he did it but I was thankful!

Incidentally, mine (1.9D 115ps 2003) is on the original turbo. As long as you stick to oil servicing guidance religiously, they don't die.
Hi baldmosher I also live in Warrington and would like to know which garage you use and is it a volvo indipendant
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Old May 30th, 2018, 21:16   #16
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Originally Posted by martin93 View Post
Or on a diesel, you may notice the cars new idling speed is around 7000rpm with the key out of the ignition, plumes of smoke comes out the back, a crowd gathers, fire engines arrive, and eventually the engine runs out of oil and siezes up into a great big metal mess.
-Which is why I swear by petrol engines.

Regarding runaway diesel engines: I repaired a diesel engine in a boat once. Thought I would make the old gunked up engine look nice so I cleaned the outside with kerosene. Nice and shiny. Turned out it also cleaned the fuel regulator screw which, without me being aware of it was missing a spring.
I cranked the engine by hand and closed the depressurization valve and to my horror the engine really went off. Turned out the regulator screw with it's missing spring started to move on it's own spraying more and more diesel into the sylinders as it vibrated. It took seconds before the monster sounded like a chainsaw on full speed. The engine got all blurry to look at from the vibrations and I attempted to open the depressurization valve with a big stick which resulted in a white flame bursting up in the air.
Then the engine tore the motor mounts clean off, jumped high up in the air and plunged into the water.
If this had happened to someone else I would have laughed my ass off.
Unfortunately it happened to ME so I got scared to death.
Since then petrol is the way to go.

Last edited by emtor; May 30th, 2018 at 21:19.
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Old May 31st, 2018, 00:53   #17
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Originally Posted by emtor View Post
-Which is why I swear by petrol engines.

Regarding runaway diesel engines: I repaired a diesel engine in a boat once. Thought I would make the old gunked up engine look nice so I cleaned the outside with kerosene. Nice and shiny. Turned out it also cleaned the fuel regulator screw which, without me being aware of it was missing a spring.
I cranked the engine by hand and closed the depressurization valve and to my horror the engine really went off. Turned out the regulator screw with it's missing spring started to move on it's own spraying more and more diesel into the sylinders as it vibrated. It took seconds before the monster sounded like a chainsaw on full speed. The engine got all blurry to look at from the vibrations and I attempted to open the depressurization valve with a big stick which resulted in a white flame bursting up in the air.
Then the engine tore the motor mounts clean off, jumped high up in the air and plunged into the water.
If this had happened to someone else I would have laughed my ass off.
Unfortunately it happened to ME so I got scared to death.
Since then petrol is the way to go.
Lol, ahaha.... thanks for sharing!
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Old May 31st, 2018, 21:59   #18
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Hi baldmosher I also live in Warrington and would like to know which garage you use and is it a volvo indipendant
This was The Worx just off Wilderspool Causeway. Not Volvo but do a good job for me every time.

Nearest indies are Wigan, Preston, or Stockport apparently.

The guy I normally use for mechanical stuff is totally independent and lives just behind my house, he's cheap and excellent.
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Old May 31st, 2018, 22:02   #19
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Originally Posted by V40addict View Post
baldmosher,
I see you bought that one with 230 K miles on the clock, this would be really rolling the dice for me. Can you tell us what you had to replace or broke down since then ? Engine parts and other ...
And how many miles can one expect from this Volvo model (diesel or petrol )?
The record is 474k on a 2.0na petrol.

There's a fair list of stuff I've replaced, all genuine Volvo where possible, big long distance stuff like front suspension came from a reliable beakers, small stuff I buy new. I'll pop back with my full list in a sec. I reckon parts & labour have cost me £1000 in total since purchase including servicing.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...80&postcount=9

I should add that mine has the best service history I've ever seen on any car. Every receipt since new.

The last V40 popped the turbo and that was £800 in one go. The most annoying thing about that was that it was still in warranty, but I didn't realise.

Last edited by baldmosher; May 31st, 2018 at 22:06.
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Old Jun 19th, 2018, 19:03   #20
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The 1.6 and 1.8 Volvo engines were fitted with a Renault gearbox up to around 2003ish, and the 2.0 non turbo had the Renault box up until the P2 was introduced in around 2000. I think the 1.8i GDI had a Mitsubishi box (not sure on that), and the Diesel's were also Renault. The other gearbox fitted was a Volvo unit. Both of these boxes were good, but I personally would stick to a Renault box since these are mated to a solid flywheel, not a dual mass flywheel like the Volvo boxes were. This is speaking from a brief experience with a 2.0 non turbo phase 2, which decided to throw its flywheel away at just 90K.
I am considering buying a 2.0 non turbo P2, it doesn't have the same Renault box as my 1.6L, if the 2.0 P1 (until 2000) had the Renault box does that mean the 2.0 P2 would also accept the gearbox of my 1.6L in case I need to swap ?



Regarding the flywheel failure, what does that mean mechanically and cost wise (assuming you need to go to a repairshop )?
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