1.9D turbo Waste Gate

[choosy54]

If I disconnect the turbo actuating servo shouldn't the waste gate be fairly easy to move by hand? As far as I understand the springing mechanism is in the actuator and not on the waste gate mechanism. Am I right?
I have disconnected the servo and the waste gate refuses to budge a single millimetre in any direction. :-(

Reason for my query is: I cannot hear the turbo spinning up and the car is pretty sluggish.

I can see a turbo strip down coming on.

Any advise or other ideas chaps/esses ?

[aldred309uk]

With my 1.9d I could produce your problem by unplugging vacuum hoses and unplugging the map sensor the plug on the plastic pipe at the top).

Try disconnecting the maf sensor and see if that helps (plug at the first bit of pipe from the air filter)

[choosy54]

Well, a bit of an update. This type of turbo does not have a waste gate but a variable vane mechanism. That was pretty well gunked and coked up so was jammed but also the inlet vanes have been pretty well chewed up by some sort of foreign matter (I hate to think what!).
So am now looking for another turbo unit if anybody has or knows where one is going for a song. :-0

[choosy54]

A quick update:
Have put another turbo onto it but it hasn't changed at all. It's still sluggish. Going to be looking at the EGR next weekend and possibly the MAF sensor. There aren't any engine management lights showing so tis a bit of a puzzle.

[Dancake]

Think about what you're doing before loading up the parts cannon and firing it at the car. Variable geometry/vane turbos require a control mechanism. Normally they are vacuum actuated. If your vacuum pump was weak or your control solenoid was faulty, then you may not get boost. The turbo control valve on the 1.9d is on the bulkhead, and it also known as the N75 valve. You will need to see if full vacuum is getting to the OUT port at idle. Full vacuum is normally around 30inHg. If you haven't got this at the vacuum pump, then the pump may be faulty or the seal could need replacing.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by choosy54

If I disconnect the turbo actuating servo shouldn't the waste gate be fairly easy to move by hand? As far as I understand the springing mechanism is in the actuator and not on the waste gate mechanism. Am I right?
I have disconnected the servo and the waste gate refuses to budge a single millimetre in any direction. :-(

Reason for my query is: I cannot hear the turbo spinning up and the car is pretty sluggish.

I can see a turbo strip down coming on.

Any advise or other ideas chaps/esses ?

yes ! after disconnecting the operating rod the vane lever should be very free to move back and forth . It is fairly easy to dismantle and find out why , look at the inner ring for cracks ...

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by choosy54

Well, a bit of an update. This type of turbo does not have a waste gate but a variable vane mechanism. That was pretty well gunked and coked up so was jammed but also the inlet vanes have been pretty well chewed up by some sort of foreign matter (I hate to think what!).
So am now looking for another turbo unit if anybody has or knows where one is going for a song. :-0

All it takes is one tiny fragment of debris to get through the air filter (Or from the air filter if it's a cheap one) to hit the turbo vane just when a big right boot has it spinning at some biblical RPM to damage the vane. That will then result in it being out of balance, which then chews out the bearings.

A good turbo does not fail (The boost control valve or plumbing can fail) unless there is something wrong with the lubrication or air filtration history. Alas all it takes is one mistake to cause the turbo to wear out before the block.

Variable vane turbo's can be a bit more problematic and some do coke up a bit if short tripped too much. An Italian tune up or Sunday morning motorway trip should help clean up both the turbo and EGR. The induction system will still need cleaning though.
I've never had my EGR cleaned in the past 150K km, BUT I have had the intake and shut off valve cleaned once (New O ring required).

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by choosy54

A quick update:
Have put another turbo onto it but it hasn't changed at all. It's still sluggish. Going to be looking at the EGR next weekend and possibly the MAF sensor. There aren't any engine management lights showing so tis a bit of a puzzle.

You are going to waste a lot of dosh guessing what is wrong!

Firstly, there is a specific fault code for MAF sensor faults. If that sensor is defective, it normally causes limp home mode which should be obvious.
The EML light does not help much in terms of figuring out what is wrong, getting the hidden fault codes read using the correct code reader sure does.

A blocked EGR causes very specific symptoms, like a big lag in pick up when booted. It should be cleaned (Along with the intake) at least every 100K km.

About half of all MAF sensor faults can be sorted by use of a cleaner spray.

[choosy54]

Well !!
I have been at it again. EGR valve service needed, took the 3 bolts out, the valve did NOT want to leave the intake manifold. After a few judicious knocks with a hammer it came off. JESUS !!!! I haven't seen that sort off blockage for many many years. The intake diameter was reduced by over 50% due to crud build up. I cannot remove the metal part of the EGR yet. I am looking at taking the inlet manifold off completely and dump it in my TFR bath for a few hours/days to loosen it and end up with essentially a reconditioned intake manifold.
My question is : How does the convoluted exhaust piece come apart from the inlet manifold please?

[choosy54]

Does nobody know the answer to my last question?