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Soot filter full

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Old Mar 10th, 2017, 19:52   #11
Mikesmith181
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Didn't see these replies, went to the lakes today to do the regen, and nothing, it's a little less restricted and goes over 80 now, but still no power. I tried to reset the codes and they come back straight away. Would vida show me the variables for the sensors? Also how do I get VIDA to run the forced regen?
Thanks in advance.
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Old Mar 10th, 2017, 22:10   #12
colinbos
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VIDA says, with the first code, that you have an issue with

1. an air leak
2. The filter is full of soot
3. damage to a connection hose/pipe to the particle filter pressure sensor
4. damaged pressure sensor particle filter.

and in relation to your 2nd code

1. an air leak in the intake system
2. you've driven to many short journeys.

So i reckon, you've got a leak in the intake system, and or the pressure sensor for the DPF is faulty.



If you've still got the Soot Filter Full warning, your still in with a chance of a forced regen. If it gets any worse, i.e. says engine management system service required, it my not let you.

If you have VIDA Mike, which it appears you may have, you need to get into it and start interrogating it to find out whats going on.

Diagnostics, Vehicle communication and activations is a place to start, look at what sensors are working around the DPF etc. It does take time, but it also saves money.

VIDA will give you the starting parameters, and the actuals if you select the DPF pressure sensor. Compare the two, theres your answer.

It will also tell you how to remove the pressure sensor in the Repair section. Its all there.

Time to get your hands dirty.


Are you sure your reseting the codes in 'Delivery" right ?

And you didn't need a trip to the lakes to do a regen. A few runs down Formby by pass would have done it.

Last edited by colinbos; Mar 10th, 2017 at 22:42.
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Old Mar 11th, 2017, 09:30   #13
Mikesmith181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colinbos View Post
VIDA says, with the first code, that you have an issue with

1. an air leak
2. The filter is full of soot
3. damage to a connection hose/pipe to the particle filter pressure sensor
4. damaged pressure sensor particle filter.

and in relation to your 2nd code

1. an air leak in the intake system
2. you've driven to many short journeys.

So i reckon, you've got a leak in the intake system, and or the pressure sensor for the DPF is faulty.



If you've still got the Soot Filter Full warning, your still in with a chance of a forced regen. If it gets any worse, i.e. says engine management system service required, it my not let you.

If you have VIDA Mike, which it appears you may have, you need to get into it and start interrogating it to find out whats going on.

Diagnostics, Vehicle communication and activations is a place to start, look at what sensors are working around the DPF etc. It does take time, but it also saves money.

VIDA will give you the starting parameters, and the actuals if you select the DPF pressure sensor. Compare the two, theres your answer.

It will also tell you how to remove the pressure sensor in the Repair section. Its all there.

Time to get your hands dirty.


Are you sure your reseting the codes in 'Delivery" right ?

And you didn't need a trip to the lakes to do a regen. A few runs down Formby by pass would have done it.
I tried the bypass on Wednesday and that didn't do anything lol, I was able to reset them once then they came straight back again, now it won't let me select delivery. I need to figure out how to get VIDA to do a regen cycle and check the sensors.
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Old Mar 11th, 2017, 10:11   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikesmith181 View Post
These are the fault codes guys, I reset them and they came straight back on, and wouldn't reset again, drove the car on a local by pass and no power and restricted to 80 :-/
If the DPF sensor has a fault code, get it changed after checking for a bad connection. The second fault code is probably a byproduct of the first. If it fails to Regen correctly then it's going to block.
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Old Mar 11th, 2017, 10:35   #15
colinbos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikesmith181 View Post
I tried the bypass on Wednesday and that didn't do anything lol, I was able to reset them once then they came straight back again, now it won't let me select delivery. I need to figure out how to get VIDA to do a regen cycle and check the sensors.
Do you want some help on this Mike ?

Im about tomorrow afternoon (Sunday) to put my VIDA on it and have a look at the sensor wiring etc. PM me if you want.
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Old Mar 11th, 2017, 11:54   #16
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I have just managed to figure out the forced regen which it's currently doing now, it says there is 40.62 grams of soot in the filter, but it doesn't seem to be going down at all, the particulate filter is touching 560 degrees and it stinks of burning rubber. The pressure sensor particulate filter is sitting steadily at 12hPa. Fingers crossed this works, I'll post up pics of the sensor read outs off the fault codes.
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Old Mar 11th, 2017, 22:34   #17
colinbos
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As you can see your filter was full Mike, any more and it would have been a replacement job. It really needs to stay under 30 for the car to do its own regen. If it gets too full it can block and it will cost 000 to replace.

When the regen is done, you need to find whats causing it to get so full.

Its either an air leak or your doing lots of local journeys that doesn't allow the car to got hot enough to do the regen. It could also be faulty heat sensors etc. It needs a good run once a month at least, 30 mins or more at a decent speed, to get the soot out. Some call it 'an Italian tune up' if you get my drift.


Great work finding out how to do the regen.
Maybe you can post here how you fund it etc, to help others ?


To keep an eye on things after the regen is all done, you can run VIDA while your driving to see if the car is forcing soot out the filter. I often do this to make sure everything is working as it should be. Its therapeutic to see the filter at 20, and slowly going to Zero as I drive. So ,maybe do this as soon as its done. As you drive you can see soot build up via VIDA, and when your on the bypass, you can see it going down too, of everything is working correctly. If not, you'll see it go up and stay up, then you know you need to do more digging.

Last edited by colinbos; Mar 12th, 2017 at 00:44.
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Old Mar 12th, 2017, 15:17   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colinbos View Post
As you can see your filter was full Mike, any more and it would have been a replacement job. It really needs to stay under 30 for the car to do its own regen. If it gets too full it can block and it will cost 000 to replace.

When the regen is done, you need to find whats causing it to get so full.

Its either an air leak or your doing lots of local journeys that doesn't allow the car to got hot enough to do the regen. It could also be faulty heat sensors etc. It needs a good run once a month at least, 30 mins or more at a decent speed, to get the soot out. Some call it 'an Italian tune up' if you get my drift.


Great work finding out how to do the regen.
Maybe you can post here how you fund it etc, to help others ?


To keep an eye on things after the regen is all done, you can run VIDA while your driving to see if the car is forcing soot out the filter. I often do this to make sure everything is working as it should be. Its therapeutic to see the filter at 20, and slowly going to Zero as I drive. So ,maybe do this as soon as its done. As you drive you can see soot build up via VIDA, and when your on the bypass, you can see it going down too, of everything is working correctly. If not, you'll see it go up and stay up, then you know you need to do more digging.
Hi Colin, there was 40.61g in mine, Vida says anything over 100g it would need to be replaced, I would have thought the tolerances would of been a lot close, it was only 40% full and the car said it was full and went in to limp mode, bit of a pain TBH. I'll have a look at doing show to on my next day off, would be good to help others! The only problem I found, on the actual regen page the content of carbon didn't go down at all, it revved to 2500 rpm for 5 minutes and then up to 3000 rpm for 10-15 minutes and didn't move, so I stopped it thinking it wasn't working, then looked on live data and it said zero, also the programme doesn't automatically stop so it's a bit of a guessing game really.

I've ordered some wynn DPF cleaner additive for the fuel too, I'm going to London in a couple of weeks so that will help further. Also in the manual it says to use a park heater on short journeys whic is mostly what I do unfortunately, does anyone know what this is or how to activate it?
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Old Mar 12th, 2017, 17:24   #19
colinbos
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You wont have a parking hater, unless it was fitted as an extra.

Has the regen solved your issues though ?

Do you think it been caused by short local journeys, or do you think you have a sensor issue ?


If you mainly doing short journeys you definitely need to do a blast every couple of weeks to clear the engines throat (and DPF) so to speak.

Any more than 30g of soot and your asking for trouble.
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Old Mar 13th, 2017, 00:34   #20
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I wonder whether it needs a 'blast' to regenerate? I ask because I happened to stop my new XC90 the other day at about five miles from home and after a cold start. Opened the door and the heat and smell and the cooling fan roaring suggested that it was mid-regenerating. 750 miles from new. The five miles from home were not done at a 'blast' but normally driven at up to 50mph and revs around 1500.

Ive three other cars with DPF's and apart from once with the Ranger pickup, this is the only other time I've noticed any of them regenerating. I could tell when my [now sold] Juke was due to regenerate and when it had done, because the engine sounded harsher just before or during, but nothing with my current Qashqai or CRV. I've driven the CRV nearly 60,000 miles and been an occasional driver of the Qashqai which has covered 25,000 miles in all.

Perhaps the latest generation of cars regenerate more reliably than older ones? Certainly the design of the latest Drive-E engines is interesting in that both the cat and DPF are housed in the same enclosure which is bolted directly to the turbocharger housing, so there is no significant heat loss in the gas.
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