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Common S60 Problems - Solutions Only

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Old May 13th, 2009, 07:03   #11
GMcL
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Default Handbrake issue

Just to add, Mo created this thread with a write up and pics of what is required to replace the rear brakes.
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Old Jun 13th, 2009, 20:44   #12
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Default Engine Noise Inside The Cabin

My S60 was really noisy inside the car,, could hear lots of noise from the turbo etc.

I read on the forums somewhere that the 'boot' that covers the steering colum can come adrift.

I took a look and the boot was still in place but the bearing that sealed it to the steering colum had come out of position.

I will be honest I really didnt think that this coming out of position would of made any difference, but now ive put it back to where it should be the difference is unbelievable,, no noise inside the car anyomre, its brilliant.

So if you think the turbo is hissing or got louder recently etc take alook at this bearing first.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2009, 12:14   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Langfield View Post
The engine starter is totally dead when the ignition key is turned on.
I had this happen and it was the 12v wire to the solenoid needed a clean (the thin wire), once cleaned it fired the starter up no problems
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Old Jun 22nd, 2009, 16:46   #14
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Very frequently asked question at the moment : Fuel cap cover doesn't lock with the rest of the car.

It is supposed to be like this, wait 10-15 minutes and if it STILL hasn't locked then you have a problem. The idea is you can secure your car on the petrol station forecourt and still have time to fill the tank before the flap locks.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2010, 19:47   #15
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D5 lumps

Car takes ages to start in the cold weather or fails to start altogether??

One or more of your injectors are leaking.

Unclip the soft/rubber return pipes from on top of each of the injectors and pipe them off into 5 seperate containers. Halfords do a kit for this.

If one of the containers starts to fill up rapidly (much more than the others) then that injector is shot!

If the car won't start in very cold weather then a quick way to get it started is to take off the engine cover and poor boiling hot water directly on to the injectors to warm them up. The car should then start.

Worked for me for two weeks until I had the number 2 injector replaced.
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Old May 15th, 2010, 02:15   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veitchy64 View Post
How easy was it to get to the "boot"? and where was it located, cant get the car booked in for two weeks so will have to attack it myself!
The "boot" is at the bottom of the steering column and is relatively easy to get to. Push the driver's seat all the way back and raise the steering wheel to its topmost position. You should then be able to get to the boot in question. I have had to do this several times in the last few months and it never seems to last more than about 2 or 3 weeks.
Does anyone know how to permanently fix this or at least fix it so that it only needs to be done 2 or 3 times a year instead?
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Old Aug 2nd, 2010, 22:41   #17
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The boot in question is on the floor behind the pedals at the end of the steering column. It is a black rubber boot that covers a bearing. Sometimes this moves down over the bearing and starts to make a groaning, rubbing sound when you are turning the steering wheel.
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Old Aug 28th, 2010, 21:42   #18
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I also have similar problem. typically after driving for a while - like 3 hours journey and I park the car - buying fule for instance - The engine would not start, and interior lights dull. Removing the battery negative terminal and putting it back gets things started again, even though the terminal looks very good, not 'rusted' or dirty. happened more than four times now over last two months and only when on long trips. Unfortunately the last oine I did now brings up SRS airbag fault message. Obviously did not put the ignition key in position II before connecting back the negative terminal.
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Old Nov 19th, 2010, 18:55   #19
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Default Split intercooler

Loss of power
Smoke on acceleration
Hissing noise from engine on acceleration
Oil on/under the radiator

All add up to a SPILT INTERCOOLER

Solution = replace!

Lots of posts on here with how to replace it.
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Old Nov 22nd, 2010, 11:27   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme Catnach View Post
Lights not flashing when locking car with remote - check all doors, bonnet & boot are fully shut; often opening boot/bonnet & slamming shut fixes this!
Noticed a few threads popping up on this recently.

My 2004 V70 suffered this same symptom. Someone kindly pointed out the two rubber bump stops under the leading edge of the bonnet. They are screwed into place and sometimes can become unscrewed enough just to hold the bonnet off. Screw them fully in and voila, all works well.

Thought I'd pass on and make it "sticky".
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