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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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How To: Replace Heater Fan Blower MotorViews : 6828 Replies : 10Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 6th, 2017, 14:56 | #11 |
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Reposting with working pictures!
Stupid Photobucket has changed its terms and conditions, meaning I would have to pay some ridiculous amount to have my photos appear on forums. So I have uploaded the photos to another hosting site, and am reposting the full first post to this thread here:
A common fault on 240s is the heater blower motor burning out. There are a few guides online as to how to do it, but none for cars without aircon (which is the majority here, I am quite certain!). I did the job a few weeks ago, and took some detailed pictures along the way, so I thought a decent write-up was in order. A warning though: I am a lawyer not a mechanic, so this is not a difficult job by any stretch of the imagination, but it is time consuming and often frustrating. I took two days to complete it, day 1 removal, and day 2 replacement. The first step is to remove the front seats, it makes access so much easier. They each unbolt with four 13mm nuts, and an electrical connector under each for the heated seats and seat belt warnings. IMG_6189 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr IMG_6190 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr Then take the felt under the dash out on both sides, and also both plastic panels which hide the centre console. IMG_6191 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr Remove the front floor vents from both sides, which attach with two little clips. You will get very familiar with these little clips as this job progresses! There's a bolt below too which needs to be removed, which holds the heater box onto a bracket. Loosen the ducts that take the air to the rear, just unscrew the single screw which holds the duct to the heater box. IMG_6192 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr From this point, the Haynes manual suggests that you put hose clamps on the hoses which go from the engine bay to the heater, or drain the coolant system. I could not get the hoses off the heater matrix, and so Bugjam1999 advised that actually leaving the heater matrix in place and just removing the whole dashboard was an easier job. So…I trusted his advice and followed precisely the guidance on this incredibly useful site: http://cleanflametrap.com/dash.html It is very accurate, and really it is not a difficult job, and here are some pictures to prove it. IMG_6200 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr I took photos of all the electrical connectors so I would not go wrong when reconstructing. This is behind the instrument cluster. I had to break the anti-tamper seal on my speedo, which was reassuring in that I could prove it had never been replaced! IMG_6202 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr You accumulate rather a lot of plastic: IMG_6201 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr Emptied: IMG_6208 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr Loose: IMG_6209 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr Out and in the spare room IMG_6210 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr Meanwhile, the scene in the car IMG_6211 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr So time for a closer look at what we actually need to do. The heater fan sits inside this beige box IMG_6212 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr IMG_6216 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr The beige box is made up of two halves, held together by little metal clips along the spine, as you can see in the picture above. What we are able to do is to split this box open whilst it is still in place in the car, just enough to be able to pull the old heater fan out, and replace it. So the next job is to ping off all the little metal clips. There are about 5 at the front all the way down, and 5 at the back. It requires a lot of contortion to flick them all off with a screwdriver, and you are bound to lose some down a black hole in the car, but life will go on. Here are a few of mine off, the easiest and most visible ones first IMG_6217 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr You also need to disconnect these supporting brackets for the heater box on both sides, just the bolts that attach to the scuttle will do. These are quite awkward to get at. IMG_6218 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr After you have got all the clips off, then you need to separate the two halves just enough to pull the fan out, but to do that you need to jiggle the heater box down from the scuttle . It takes a lot of doing, shoving, moving, pulling and generally breaking your back and knees. Here is mine beginning to give, and showing the first glimpse of the offending fan IMG_6219 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr And free IMG_6220 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr It’s pretty leafy in there! IMG_6221 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr The fan itself is wired by red, green and blue wires directly to the different speeds on the fan switch on the centre console as you can see below, and also earthed to the heater valve. IMG_6222 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr The fan is now clear and out of the car IMG_6224 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr The next job is to swap the mounting blades from the car to the new fan. IMG_6223 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr I failed miserably at getting the rubber lugs through the holes, so eventually had to resort to some drastic Stanley knife action, followed by a bit of reparative resin. You may have better luck than me! The mounting blades only fit one way, so be careful – they slot into cut-outs on the inside of the heater box. The blade at the front does not have a 'foot', so it's quite easy to work out how it fits. IMG_6228 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr So we are now halfway, and as Haynes would say, refitting is a reversal of removal! Getting the fan back in is a bit of trial and error, but it eventually goes in. However, closing the heater box is quite tricky, and takes a lot of time. The heater matrix is heavy and droops down, so needs to be coaxed up to its precise position inside the heater box so that it closes properly, a long heavy screwdriver gives just about enough leverage. Take care when closing the heater box though that all your flaps have seated properly in their holes. Test all the levers on the heater controls for goodness sake, before putting the car back together! One of mine was not seating properly, so I had to have another session of flicking all the little clips off and correcting the fault. Before full re-assembly of the dash, do just test the new fan to make sure it’s not a dud. Mine was fine, so I proceeded to put all this stuff back together IMG_6225 by Siôn Hudson, on Flickr You will see that I rather anally put all the bolts, buts and clips in an egg crate, and labelled what they all were. Believe me, when re-fitting everything on day 2 I was very glad I had done that as I was scratching my head quite a lot even though I knew where things were supposed to go! So there you go, a good weekend’s work and the heating heart of the 240 restored back to full health again. Your knees will take a week to recover.
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