best modification - Page 4

dilip122S · Nov 1st, 2009, 19:48

Steve 121, the exhaust is a replica of the one on my Dad's Ruddspeed, with a few design tweaks of my own. Done by a place in Aylesbury that was recommended by my nephew, who builds (modern) rally cars.Properly speaking, its a road/ race system. Upside: dramatic(and I do mean dramatic) increase in top speed and high-end power. Lovely noise, looks great. Downside: its not cheap. And its loud. BUT, its loud but well-bred, if you know what I mean, totally different to some hot hatch running a silly back-box. I love the noise, and feel no need whatsoever for a radio.

Apologies for the scabby condition of my rear bumper,(daily driver, remember!) have cleaned it up a bit since this pic was taken:

It also could'nt be more different, in every possible way, from the usual "big-bore", which is a pretty unimpressive bit of kit, IMHO, in terms of sound, performance, fit etc.

If anyone's seriously interested, I'll dig out the details for the guys who made it (can't honestly remember off the top of my head), and tell you what to specify.

As far as I'm aware, the side-exit system was pretty much unsilenced, and was never intended for road use. I would imagine it would probably be pretty intolerable anywhere except a racetrack. Is anyone running anything like this? I'd be interested to know what its like...

stuart bankier · Nov 1st, 2009, 21:38

Negative camber, bilsteins, stiffer springs, two front anti roll bars, poly
bushes, motolita steering wheel, minilites and a decent exhaust and manifold.

Stuart

archieboy69 · Nov 2nd, 2009, 08:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by dilip122S

If anyone's seriously interested, I'll dig out the details for the guys who made it (can't honestly remember off the top of my head), and tell you what to specify.

That would be great if you could

Cheers

Stuart

dilip122S · Nov 2nd, 2009, 12:06

Hi Stuart, Steve et al,

The exhaust was done at:

TOP GEAR RACING Gatehouse Way
AYLESBURY,
Bucks.
HP19 8DB TEL: 01296 433011 Email: topgearaylesbury@aol.com

They're a Powerflow franchise, but these boys really know what they're about. Don't just walk into any Powerflow place and expect them to produce something like this.

You will need to already have a 4 branch exhaust fitted, preferably one with a 3" flange. You'll also need to have lowered suspension, for the exhaust to run comfortably under the back axle, giving that nice straight run we're after.

You should specify a 3" straight pipe (for a B20, 2.75" approx. for a B18 ) running from the manifold to a single box, with twin 2" outlets (1.75" approx for a B18) , these should run straight under the rear axle, as per my photo, and have slash-cut tips if you want the authentic 60's Ruddspeed look. Expect to pay around £500 ( top-grade stainless, remember).

Tim at Powerflow will certainly remember my car, and will I'm sure be happy to oblige anyone who wants the same.

dilip122S · Nov 2nd, 2009, 12:24

Forgot to say, but it should be fairly obvious, there's not much point in bolting a system like this onto a bog-standard engine. You'll need twin carbs and a D or K cam at the very least. I'd also strongly recommend the electronic distributor as supplied by Amazon cars , which can be set to their own curve for tuned B20's.
You'll need overdrive to make the most of the top end power out on the motorway.

You may also need to re-jet your carbs. I retuned mine, and that seems to have done the trick, without re-jetting, but that's just my engine. Have'nt had it on a rolling road or anything, yet.

Steve121 · Nov 2nd, 2009, 19:01

cheers for the info, VERY nice looking system... fits much better than my single pipe large bore one. Thinking under the axle is the way to go, just need to shorten the check straps as I've got lowered progressive springs. An original Ruddspeed car would of course be nice to have.

Been living with my very loud straight through system for a few years now, and now the engines smoking a bit though compressions bang on 200psi each cylinder cold, so new guides needed. Time to lay her up, deal with the rust and make a list of improvements!

swedishandgerman · Nov 2nd, 2009, 22:58

That is the nicest Amazon I've seen!

I always wanted a twin tail-pipe system like yours - I saw one yonks ago and enquired about getting one made, but they needed something to replicate so I settled for a Simonz one instead...

The best upgrade, without a doubt, was my over-drive. Firstly, I just did the over-drive, but with the hilly roads in Devon soon had to source the correct axle. It's great!

Another extremely easy, cheap and succesful 30 minute job was covering the rear light reflectors in aluminium tape from Maplins - thanks to another thread on here. A complete transformation to the brightness of the lights.

Lots of other upgrades including a B20 sourced from a '74 145, twin SU's, lowered & progressively wound springs + gas shock absorbers. I also have widened steel rims - they look nice but the handling feels a bit wonky. I might change them back.

Least successful upgrade - a 5 blade fan that I paid a lot of money for.

This is the most interesting thread on here for yonks! I now have a to-do list including halogen headlights and I'm putting a 123 distributor on my Christmas list!

1966 122s · Nov 2nd, 2009, 23:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by 222s

I agree about modern technology - however 195/60 reduces the rolling radius, and thus also the gearing. Even 195/65 is undersized - the next size up from 165R15 that is the closest in diameter & easily available, is 205/65.

Compared to 165R15:
195/60 - 7% smaller diameter
195/65 - 4.1% smaller diameter
205/65 - 2.1% smaller diameter

This advice fits exactly with what I'm getting out of the change I recently made from 165/65/15 to to a set of 195/60/15 . I'm really pleased with the improved grip and handling, and I can just about see / feel the slight lowering which I intended. However, I'm noticing the diameter change in higher rpm when cruising on the dual carriageway. Without an overdrive, the difference at 65 to 70mph is noticable and feels like the 7% that the maths show. If I was spending my money again I'd think of 195/65. or possibly be brave with 195/70 or the 205/65.

Thanks

swedishandgerman · Nov 17th, 2009, 10:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by dilip122S

Les Leston steering wheel,

Please could I ask where you sourced the hub for your Les Leston Steering wheel?

dilip122S · Nov 17th, 2009, 21:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by swedishandgerman

Please could I ask where you sourced the hub for your Les Leston Steering wheel?

Hi swedishandgerman, I had to have the hub specially machined up from billet by Moto-Lita. Have to say they were very helpful, did exactly what I asked for. Its not as nice as the original type Les-Leston hub, which has a more "OEM" look to it, but you could wait forever for one of those in a Volvo fit to come up on ebay. Love the Les Leston wheel, it weighs about half what a modern woodrim weighs and feels great to use. If you've got one, fit it, you won't regret it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQ3_f0jGryg

This video gives a good view of the steering wheel.

Nov 2nd, 2009, 19:01	#36
Steve121 complete member Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 13:56 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Wootton, Bedfordshire	cheers for the info, VERY nice looking system... fits much better than my single pipe large bore one. Thinking under the axle is the way to go, just need to shorten the check straps as I've got lowered progressive springs. An original Ruddspeed car would of course be nice to have. Been living with my very loud straight through system for a few years now, and now the engines smoking a bit though compressions bang on 200psi each cylinder cold, so new guides needed. Time to lay her up, deal with the rust and make a list of improvements! __________________ '68 Ruddspeed tuned 121

Nov 1st, 2009, 19:48	#31
dilip122S Junior Member Last Online: Mar 6th, 2012 02:33 Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: London View Photos By: dilip122S	Steve 121, the exhaust is a replica of the one on my Dad's Ruddspeed, with a few design tweaks of my own. Done by a place in Aylesbury that was recommended by my nephew, who builds (modern) rally cars.Properly speaking, its a road/ race system. Upside: dramatic(and I do mean dramatic) increase in top speed and high-end power. Lovely noise, looks great. Downside: its not cheap. And its loud. BUT, its loud but well-bred, if you know what I mean, totally different to some hot hatch running a silly back-box. I love the noise, and feel no need whatsoever for a radio. Apologies for the scabby condition of my rear bumper,(daily driver, remember!) have cleaned it up a bit since this pic was taken: It also could'nt be more different, in every possible way, from the usual "big-bore", which is a pretty unimpressive bit of kit, IMHO, in terms of sound, performance, fit etc. If anyone's seriously interested, I'll dig out the details for the guys who made it (can't honestly remember off the top of my head), and tell you what to specify. As far as I'm aware, the side-exit system was pretty much unsilenced, and was never intended for road use. I would imagine it would probably be pretty intolerable anywhere except a racetrack. Is anyone running anything like this? I'd be interested to know what its like...

Nov 1st, 2009, 21:38	#32
stuart bankier Stuart Last Online: May 24th, 2011 18:00 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Berwick upon Tweed	Negative camber, bilsteins, stiffer springs, two front anti roll bars, poly bushes, motolita steering wheel, minilites and a decent exhaust and manifold. Stuart

Nov 2nd, 2009, 12:06	#34
dilip122S Junior Member Last Online: Mar 6th, 2012 02:33 Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: London View Photos By: dilip122S	Hi Stuart, Steve et al, The exhaust was done at: TOP GEAR RACING Gatehouse Way AYLESBURY, Bucks. HP19 8DB TEL: 01296 433011 Email: topgearaylesbury@aol.com They're a Powerflow franchise, but these boys really know what they're about. Don't just walk into any Powerflow place and expect them to produce something like this. You will need to already have a 4 branch exhaust fitted, preferably one with a 3" flange. You'll also need to have lowered suspension, for the exhaust to run comfortably under the back axle, giving that nice straight run we're after. You should specify a 3" straight pipe (for a B20, 2.75" approx. for a B18 ) running from the manifold to a single box, with twin 2" outlets (1.75" approx for a B18) , these should run straight under the rear axle, as per my photo, and have slash-cut tips if you want the authentic 60's Ruddspeed look. Expect to pay around £500 ( top-grade stainless, remember). Tim at Powerflow will certainly remember my car, and will I'm sure be happy to oblige anyone who wants the same.

Nov 2nd, 2009, 12:24	#35
dilip122S Junior Member Last Online: Mar 6th, 2012 02:33 Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: London View Photos By: dilip122S	Forgot to say, but it should be fairly obvious, there's not much point in bolting a system like this onto a bog-standard engine. You'll need twin carbs and a D or K cam at the very least. I'd also strongly recommend the electronic distributor as supplied by Amazon cars , which can be set to their own curve for tuned B20's. You'll need overdrive to make the most of the top end power out on the motorway. You may also need to re-jet your carbs. I retuned mine, and that seems to have done the trick, without re-jetting, but that's just my engine. Have'nt had it on a rolling road or anything, yet.

Nov 2nd, 2009, 22:58	#37
swedishandgerman Premier Member Last Online: Oct 23rd, 2023 21:39 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: EXETER	That is the nicest Amazon I've seen! I always wanted a twin tail-pipe system like yours - I saw one yonks ago and enquired about getting one made, but they needed something to replicate so I settled for a Simonz one instead... The best upgrade, without a doubt, was my over-drive. Firstly, I just did the over-drive, but with the hilly roads in Devon soon had to source the correct axle. It's great! Another extremely easy, cheap and succesful 30 minute job was covering the rear light reflectors in aluminium tape from Maplins - thanks to another thread on here. A complete transformation to the brightness of the lights. Lots of other upgrades including a B20 sourced from a '74 145, twin SU's, lowered & progressively wound springs + gas shock absorbers. I also have widened steel rims - they look nice but the handling feels a bit wonky. I might change them back. Least successful upgrade - a 5 blade fan that I paid a lot of money for. This is the most interesting thread on here for yonks! I now have a to-do list including halogen headlights and I'm putting a 123 distributor on my Christmas list!

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