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Faulty 5th cylinder injector

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Old Mar 5th, 2019, 22:14   #11
alcraig
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Originally Posted by oragex View Post
I believe you should have the orange injectors for your turbo engine. May want to inspect the wiring to the injectors as well.
Try this site Fcpeuro.com
The original injector is kind of brown orange, the replacement from the V70 wreck is straight up orange. On another forum it was suggested that there might be a difference in the flow rate between a turbo and non-turbo injector.
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Old Mar 6th, 2019, 08:02   #12
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You guys aren't gonna believe this, but I played around with the originally suspect injector. Took a 9V battery to its terminals repeatedly, doused it with MAF cleaner, filled the inlet side with cleaner whilst clicking the 9V battery, and replaced it. While under the hood, I also extracted the 5th coil and plug and gave them a shop rag clean. Ran her around the block a few times and she's running like silk. I can only assume that by simply removing, cleaning and knocking it around a bit whatever was wrong with it was cleared up. Torque shows no fault codes and the CEL is off. For now, PROBLEM RESOLVED. Thanks for all your help. Its funny, but throughout my whole life I have often found that if I take something apart that is presumed to be broken and rebuild without changing a thing it comes back to life. I did it to my mothers toaster when I was 12. Weird huh?
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Old Mar 7th, 2019, 03:19   #13
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Good to hear! If it comes back looks closely to the electrical connector on the injector - maybe some corrosion in there?
Anyhow, some parts just need a little human touch now and then Happens with other stuff indeed
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Old Mar 7th, 2019, 04:27   #14
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Darn it. Its come back. Today I had to drive 30 minutes into town for a meeting. About three quarters of the way, I noticed a couple of rough idles at the stop lights. Then the CEL came on again, the 5th cylinder was not firing and the Torque app threw up the same code as before (P0205). After a 2 hour meeting, I came out to the car and it started fine. Made it nearly home when once again, it started playing up.
My next move will to be to swap injectors 4 & 5 and see if the problem follows the injector or if there is something happening with the wiring loom. Is there a multi-pin connector that connects the injector loom to the ECU? Maybe that needs a good clean. Feels like it might be heat related. Any ideas anybody?
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Old Mar 7th, 2019, 04:34   #15
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Tried swapping the ignition coils? Also may look at their wires, sometimes the black plastic cover may crash them against the engine.

Maybe follow the wire to the injector no5, not easy, maybe it has been exposed at some point and is touching a ground somewhere. The injector harness (and top of the engine loom) is quite a big one, not easy to replace
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Old Mar 7th, 2019, 12:56   #16
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Hey, can you fix my toaster as well?
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Old Mar 7th, 2019, 13:24   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nogbad the Bad View Post
Hey, can you fix my toaster as well?
You could try how I fixed my toaster, Just turn it upside down and get out all of the crap,
Dave
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Old Mar 8th, 2019, 11:45   #18
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Today, I drove to the nearby Woolies and back with no issues. Then later in the day, down to Manly to visit my chiropractor. When I came back out, it failed immediately. BUT, the code read P0204, which now has me convinced it is definitely the injector. Stopped in at my mechanic and he said that high temps will cause the solenoid to go open circuit and the pin remains closed (no fuel being dumped into the cylinder). Put in a call to Jason at Suncoast Volvo and he is posting 2 rebuilt injectors to me. So hopefully they will arrive on Monday and I can finish this off once and for all. Should I be worried about running around on 4 cylinders over the week end? Gotta go to the SCG tomorrow.
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Old Mar 8th, 2019, 15:47   #19
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Unplug the faulty injector and try not revving too hard or going uphill at speed
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Old Mar 19th, 2019, 04:01   #20
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Good news. Last week I received a new (used) injector from Suncoast Volvo. I then removed all 5 of the injectors, tossed the faulty one and set about cleaning the rest of them. I used a syringe that fit over the O rings, attached the red tube from a can of spray carby cleaner, applied a 9 volt battery to the terminals (to open the solenoid) and sprayed them out until the appeared to be flowing evenly. Reassembled everything and it all seems to be good now. No CEL and no fault codes. Hurray.
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