V70 Front shock strut scrap

[TomW]

The front shock strut I've been advised needs replacing on my 2002 V70.
A new one is £205. I have a similar car been lying in nettles for four years and wondered would it be false economy to use the scrap one from the old car?

Maybe I should cancel my order I made with local motor factors for a new one at £205 as they are on eBay for £200 a pair. Those on eBay are already assembled so should be an easier diy job.

[Georgeandkira]

Your post rings loudly of incompleteness.
How many miles are on your 2002?
Can you describe the nature of the diagnosis which led to this post?

Absurd Example: If your car had new front struts and somehow one got shot, it could make sense to replace only the damaged strut. A car crash which takes out a strut likely has destroyed more parts and your question would've been phrased differently.

So, why are you considering replacing just one front strut in a 2002 vehicle?
If both the right and left are the same age and one is leaking, the other isn't far behind.

Suspension members, just like brakes, are best replaced in pairs. Never do just one side. The resulting mismatch can cause "sidewise" forces on a vehicle which are dangerous.

Be more complete with your description of the "205 job".
200 for a pair of "Quick Struts" sounds a tad cheap. Include brand names with quotes such as these.

Your post was a little too vague. What year and model is the rotting car in the nettles? How many miles on it? Very likely its parts are old and worn; so not a great source of perishable parts.

It also sounds like you're playing ignorant.

[TomW]

There's 240k on Y reg V70.
Thanks, I didn't know they had to be replaced in pairs like brakes or the anything about them . I just thought maybe I could do the job myself so wanted as much advice as poss before tackling it.

[john.wigley]

Originally Posted by TomW

There's 240k on Y reg V70.
Thanks, I didn't know they had to be replaced in pairs like brakes or the anything about them . I just thought maybe I could do the job myself so wanted as much advice as poss before tackling it.

While components such as these should indeed ideally be replaced in pairs, I mind the time many, many years ago, when the cup supporting the spring at the bottom of the NSF strut rotted out on our 1975 244.

My local garage mechanic, one of the old school, fitted a second hand strut from a breaker's yard, removed from a car of similar age and mileage that had previously been involved in a rear end collision. His argument was that to replace the failed one with a new unit would result in imbalance, potentially compromising handling; replacing both with new was prohibitively expensive and unnessessary on a car already well past the first flush of youth; while replacing it with a matching used one was, in the circumstances, an acceptable compromise.

I am in no way advocating this practice today; what was considered acceptable 30 years ago may not be so today. You must make your own risk assessment and decision in the matter.

Some people happily fit part worn tyres in the interests of economy without a second thought. Is this really that different? If I was satisfied that the repair was safe and did not pose an undue risk to others, I would probably go ahead, but you must make your own decision.

Regards, John.

[TomW]

Now all I want is a link to a video.

[Lancee]

Originally Posted by TomW

Now all I want is a link to a video.

Be careful what you ask for !

(Sorry, not much help !).

[Georgeandkira]

In my response I omitted mentioning the guaranteed impossibility of assessing the condition of the part you can cannibalize.

You also should mention if you desire to keep this car. I've read reports of various quick struts dying in under 2 years.
The heavier the car, the quicker the cheap quick strut will fail.
Our cars are heavy.

Another question is that you mention both having this work done AND ALSO DIYing a quick strut. If you can remove a strut you can install a quick strut, obviously, but can you use a spring compressor?

Before you freak out and cite "death by unleashed spring", let me tell you it ain't that hard if you pay attention. You only have to screw down a compressor 1/2" to eliminate the pressure on the bearing plate.

The big secret to shadetree mechanics doing struts is access to an impact wrench, either pneumatic or electric. Once the spring is compressed all you need do is touch the center nut with a short trigger pull and the strut is disassembled.

If you've no impact wrench you can still disassemble it by counterholding the strut piston via the hex or torx hole provided or even grasping the piston with marring tools as it's going away anyway.

Use Anti-Seize (Copper-slip) on reassembly as it helps get more 'oomph" out of your counterholding efforts

If you line up your parts, you remove the compressed spring and transfer it onto the new strut. Set the seat and bearing plate in place and thread on the center nut and you're "safe". Obviously you have to jiggle the spring into its seat and set the rubber top seat into place. It's all quite easy.

ps Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4JnmcAo-oM

Google "P2 Volvo strut replacement videos" if you need more.

[stuart bowes]

Originally Posted by Lancee

Be careful what you ask for !.

indeed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQO-aOdJLiw

[stuart bowes]

no, but seriously..

the replacement of the strut is no more complicated than it is on any other car, yes you have to be careful with spring compressors or something will end up shooting through your garage roof and/or maiming you for life, but common sense and experience with tools in general sees most people through safely

I normally put shocks in the vice to work on them, and then it's held still and I'm standing off to one side in case anything suddenly lets go

there are two notable exceptions though in comparison to other cars which are, firstly the wishbone is very tight and getting that off and back on again (without destroying your CV joint boot in the process) is fun.. you can mess about with ratchet straps but I now find the easiest way is with a pry-bar as per the video shared above (not mine obvs) at 9:05

the other thing is, if you're not buying pre-assembled and you're building it up yourself.. that X shaped nut at the top. you take off the first bolt but that isn't under tension, when you get to the X nut THAT's when you need the spring compressed. Try what i might with a variety of tools I couldn't get that damn nut off so I resorted to buying the correct tool and that worked straight away: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162604507...3ABFBMutrlkJJh and then obviously as with all shocks, you can either rely on the counter hold OR undo the spring compressors slightly to put tension back on the top nut, undo it (so the centre rod of the shock isn't just turning uselessly) and once you've loosened it, then tighten up your compressors again and remove it completely. same in reverse for fitting new. get the nut on most of the way, then release the springs (carefully, located correctly) and then finish the tightening

[stuart bowes]

Originally Posted by Georgeandkira

You only have to screw down a compressor 1/2" to eliminate the pressure on the bearing plate.

The big secret to shadetree mechanics doing struts is access to an impact wrench, either pneumatic or electric. Once the spring is compressed all you need do is touch the center nut with a short trigger pull and the strut is disassembled

not strictly true, as per my post above, the volvo shock is a little different in that the bearing plate is not part of the assembly which is under spring load

and the nut which IS under load is a bit of a pain as per my comment / ebay link above

generally speaking though the gist of what you're saying is true