Trolley Jack Points For A 940?

[LPTJoe]

Originally Posted by LPTJoe

I have a 3 ton draper trolley jack that I use at home with a rubber hockey puck to protect from metal to metal contact

I'm a firm believer in the hockey puck too as mentioned earlier in the thread Use of them is very common, even better with a slit cut out in the middle to accommodate sill seams for cars that allow jacking there....

Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this, I'd never have given a second thought to jacking up VAG/Jap/other stuff but as this is my first Ovlov I thought I'd make an effort to get it right first time

[Laird Scooby]

Any of the factory sill jacking points should be more than adequate to lift the car with a trolley jack as long as it's lined up so the sill seams are in the centre of the jack pad.. Also at the front there are sections of reinforced chassis near these and also the rear mounts for the tie bars that are suitable for jacking on.

However, the front crossmember isn't really man enough to jack the front of the car on. It's main purpose in life is as a support for the engine and to stop the wheels from exiting outwards and doesn't have much more strength than that - the Haynes Book of fantasy confirms this as well and so, if memory serves correctly, does the Volvo handbook.

At the back, besides the sill jacking points, the diff is one option to lift the entire back end, preferably with a block of wood or hockey puck, if lifting just one side, the axle near where the spring seats attach is also a good one.

As someone else mentioned, chuck a spare wheel under the lowest point possible of the lifted vehicle or better still, an axle stand under a strong enough point and lower the car back down onto the stand gently so that if the jack gives, moves or otherwise fails, it's not a sudden shock-loading.

[TonyS9]

I use the front crossmember by default. seems fine to me. Its alot stronger than the 300 one which does bend from jacking, and the weight difference is not much really.

The wheel / sissor jacking points are fine for trolley jacking, but do occassion get bent by kerbs.

The sills are also pretty strong and provided used with foam load spreaders should be fine. Just make sure they are not rusted near the rear doors, rust does tend to start there in the seams after about 20yrs.

[bob12]

Here's a pic recently put up on another website when the same subject of discussion arose. It shows the four 'Volvo' jacking points plus the front cross-member, but not the rear diff.

I never like the central points as they can create a 'wobble'. If going 'down and dirty' underneath I ALWAYS initially use the cars jacking points with the trolley jack; then axle stands as appropriate, followed by a pile of engineering bricks! Wherever, I use a large solid block of wood as appropriate (I like the idea of Hockey pucks).

The spare tyre under is also good for just a quick look at a wheel hub/brakes (or a weeping Nivo!!).

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by bob12

I like the idea of Hockey pucks.

The spare tyre under is also good for just a quick look at a wheel hub/brakes (or a weeping Nivo!!).

Here you go Bob :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Offic...cAAOSw-XxajVb1

A pair of them there for £6.49, posted.

Spare wheel under is always a good back up, even when on stands, as for the front cross memeber, each to their own but i won't be using it!

[Jebus]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Any of the factory sill jacking points should be more than adequate to lift the car with a trolley jack as long as it's lined up so the sill seams are in the centre of the jack pad.. Also at the front there are sections of reinforced chassis near these and also the rear mounts for the tie bars that are suitable for jacking on.

However, the front crossmember isn't really man enough to jack the front of the car on. It's main purpose in life is as a support for the engine and to stop the wheels from exiting outwards and doesn't have much more strength than that - the Haynes Book of fantasy confirms this as well and so, if memory serves correctly, does the Volvo handbook.

At the back, besides the sill jacking points, the diff is one option to lift the entire back end, preferably with a block of wood or hockey puck, if lifting just one side, the axle near where the spring seats attach is also a good one.

As someone else mentioned, chuck a spare wheel under the lowest point possible of the lifted vehicle or better still, an axle stand under a strong enough point and lower the car back down onto the stand gently so that if the jack gives, moves or otherwise fails, it's not a sudden shock-loading.

The Haynes manual states to jack the front of the car to remove the undertray below the centre of the front axle crossmember, while they make a lot up in the book pretty sure they would have confirmed with Volvo its correct, the "pad" is a very odd design choice if not I would think, although you have spent far more time with a 940 than I have so would take your word that seen the crossmember will bend has truth behind it

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Jebus

The Haynes manual states to jack the front of the car to remove the undertray below the centre of the front axle crossmember, while they make a lot up in the book pretty sure they would have confirmed with Volvo its correct, the "pad" is a very odd design choice if not I would think, although you have spent far more time with a 940 than I have so would take your word that seen the crossmember will bend has truth behind it

It does indeed and a bit more digging reveals there should be a jacking pad in the centre of the front cross member specifically for jacking.

It's missing on my 760 and it could well be i saw somewhere not to jack on the edges of the crossmember or not to jack the cross member while this pad is removed (such as for access to the steering rack and/or its bolts) so it's entirely possible that i'm guilt of giving incorrect advice.

That being said, at least if i did then it erred on the side of caution and nobody ever died from not jacking their car unsafely!

It appears that i did get it at least partially wrong so my apologies!

Would be worth checking that jacking pad is still where it should be though! Not AWOL, like mine!

[LPTJoe]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

It does indeed and a bit more digging reveals there should be a jacking pad in the centre of the front cross member specifically for jacking.:

Yes, that's right. Here's a video to show it....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Afy_HjSbQQ

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

It appears that i did get it at least partially wrong so my apologies! :

I'd noticed that but as a relative newb I didn't want to be the one to call you out on it, not my place to say

EDIT: RE jacking, whilst I'm comfortable for the most part with where to jack myself and where to place my stands, my query was really aimed at finding somewhere safe and quick to direct my tyre fitter to use. It turns out that my feeling that the factory jacking mount/horseshoe gizmos would be the place was correct and yesterday new tyres were fitted. All went smoothly.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by LPTJoe

It turns out that my feeling that the factory jacking mount/horseshoe gizmos would be the place was correct and yesterday new tyres were fitted. All went smoothly.

No worries, you don't mean the towing eyes do you?

[LPTJoe]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

No worries, you don't mean the towing eyes do you?

No mate.

Look at the youtube link I posted this morning, at exactly 0:55-1:00 it will show you the factory jacking points.