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Which steering rack for a 2004 P2 V70? Year Dependant?

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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 09:21   #1
yoda960
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Default Which steering rack for a 2004 P2 V70? Year Dependant?

Hi Chaps

I have a 2004 V70 D5. It's a facelift model and my Volvo guy says I have the later steering rack.

It works fine, but when he was changing my track rod ends he couldn't put the boot back because part of the metal lip on the end of the steering rack has cracked off (he says it was an old break - not sure how as the boot fitted fine before?!). Anyway, I temporarily gaffer taped the boot onto the rack. I'm worried now that I have to replace the rack for the MOT, just because of that bloody lip thing that the boot slides onto.

Does anyone know what rack I would need if it's the 'later one' out of the two? Apparently the pipes go a different way to the earlier one?

I have VIDA, will that tell me the rack model number I have on my car perhaps?

I'm hoping to buy a secondhand one, then get it refurbed...

Thanks for any advice guys...really frustrated with this situation
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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 10:47   #2
Brendan W
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SMI is embossed on the inner tie rod boot on mine. I presume that means it's the SMI rack and not the later ZF.
If it's of any help the track rods are different. On mine it's shorter by about 40mm and the thread engaging the rack is finer.
I have seen some racks with a sticky label.
Before replacing the rack I would see what could be done with something like a CV boot strap.

Last edited by Brendan W; Feb 1st, 2018 at 10:50.
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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 10:49   #3
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Originally Posted by yoda960 View Post

Anyway, I temporarily gaffer taped the boot onto the rack. I'm worried now that I have to replace the rack for the MOT, just because of that bloody lip thing that the boot slides onto.
There's a repair kit out there which uses cable ties to hold replacement gaiters in place...so why not try removing the temporary gaffer tape fix and cable tie the boot tightly so that it holds on what remains of the lip? It should solve the problem "permanently".
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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 14:45   #4
yoda960
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Thanks for the replies guys, appreciate it. The problem is the lip is cracked off most of the way round. Pic attached to show you what I mean.

God knows how that happened. Mech claimed it was an old fracture!! Don't see how it could have been if the boot fitted fine before. He apparently took it off and it 'fell apart'. Anyway I've got to deal with it now...
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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 14:58   #5
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I believe there is a Volvo tool that goes right near that lip when the inner tie rod is replaced, so as to keep the rack rod centered when tightening the tie rod. Surely someone forced sideways on that tool. This is the tool for the XC90 (similar)

http://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/xc...ir/page_17860/

A good shop should be able to cut a piece of metal and stick it in place with some J-B weld. Should be much easier that a srack job. As for the numbers there were two of them I believe (assuming it's not electrically assisted), so care must be taken when ordering

How did the gaiter stay in place if the metal piece was already broken? The machined surface of the rack would have been covered with rust from humidity.
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Last edited by oragex; Feb 1st, 2018 at 15:05.
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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 15:46   #6
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Looks lie a new crack to me - no dirt evident along the fracture lines !
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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 15:57   #7
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The mechanic's done that so either pick an argument with him or suck up the cost of rectifying.
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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 17:57   #8
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That looks a very recent crack alright.
Not a speck of dirt inside.
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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 19:35   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoda960 View Post
Thanks for the replies guys, appreciate it. The problem is the lip is cracked off most of the way round. Pic attached to show you what I mean.

God knows how that happened. Mech claimed it was an old fracture!! Don't see how it could have been if the boot fitted fine before. He apparently took it off and it 'fell apart'. Anyway I've got to deal with it now...
Given the brightness of the edge I would rather suspect the fracture is new...However, whilst the problem might be proving it was recent it would be sealed with a tight cable tie - if a 4 or 6mm tie is tightened sufficiently there's no way it will be going to move.
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Last edited by ASt85; Feb 1st, 2018 at 19:38.
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Old Feb 1st, 2018, 19:51   #10
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Hope he didn't chuck the broken bit out.
I would be happy to epoxy or JB as oragex suggested.
Cable tie would snug it all up even without the glue although I have heard that MoT testers are no longer accepting cable ties for some things - CV boots for example. Then CV boots have a much harder life than steering boots.
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