B200E hall effect sensor

[Offgrid]

I've still got problems with the engine cutting out after a minute or so. I've replaced the coil, and the engine seems to run strongly for the first minute or so, and then cuts out. The tach doesn't move when I crank the engine, and I'm starting to suspect the hall effect sensor. I can't find a replacement part for the B200E, but there are several available for the B230E. Will one of these fit my distributor? I've got one on the saloon (B230E), but I'm loath to touch it, as I had to glue it in when I swopped the distributor.

[classicswede]

Same for both B200E and B230E

[Offgrid]

They seem to sell loads of these sensors on Ebay, but it looks as if it is quite a difficult job to replace it. You seem to have to drill out a couple of rivets, and get hold of some new flat top ones. The other end seems to be more of a nightmare. There is an "L" shaped plastic connector, with 3 wires going into it. That isn't included in the kit. I did give one of them a tug, but it wouldn't come out, and I reckoned I would break the plastic forcing it out. I can't find a sensor with that connector included, and I can't find a connector for sale as a separate item. I feel I'm missing something, as it seems a rubbish way to try to sell the product.

[classicswede]

My preferred way to solve the issue is use a 240 distributor. You need a 240 hall dizzy, 240 ht leads and coil, internal cam shaft, wiring loom, head blanking plug, front cover gasket and oil seals

Saves the super expensive 7/940 dizzy cap/rotor and removes the problem of the dizzy cap getting oil contaminated. It also takes away any issues with the EZK and its wiring

[Offgrid]

There is some oil contamination on the sensor. I'm tempted to clean it, and try to test it. Can I test it by inserting the spindle in an electric drill, and using a multimeter to view the output. I assume I'll need to connect a battery as well.