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Buying tips : would you buy with noisy VVT pulley ?

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Old May 28th, 2018, 20:44   #11
emtor
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Hot air should NOT blow out of the dipstick tubing while the motor is running.
The PCV valve is a one way passage that allows the gases caused by blow-by (piston rings/valve stems) to escape into the open air/inlet manifold), to avoid pressure to build up in the crankcase. The engine in question has positive pressure in the crankcase, the important question is why. Most likely a defective PCV-valve clogged by sludge since I doubt that such a valve suffers from mechanical breakdown very often since it's most likely just a spring loaded steel ball inside a piece of tubing. Furthermore,-why is the PCV-valve clogged up?
Worn piston rings? Worn valve stems? Both scenarios causes blow by.
If this motor has been running in this condition for a long time the oil will have been diluted by the unburned gases and also been subject to the build up of sludge and not to mention the risk of damaged oil seals.
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Old May 28th, 2018, 21:20   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V40addict View Post
Today I had a look at a 2000 V40 1.8l, just under 100k miles; interior mint condition, never seen an interior like that, sells for very little money. But it has the VVT pulley noise. The current owner says after I told him mine does it too onnly some of the time it's the same with his. Although I suspect it could be all the time , anyway the noise started immediately from cold (sometimes happens on my 2001 too). Car drives perfectly as far as I can tell.

I had printed out the Buyers Guide ( https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=160312), but didn't have time tocheck everything, if hot air and oil is blown out when you remove the oil filler cap, is it the sign of a problem I remember the tip of putting a rubber glove on there and see if it inflates but I forgot what it means. Here the engine was spitting oil and hot air and it made a bit of a mess. Is the PCV blocked ? And how bad is it ? On mine there is a screen that prevents that. The belt was changed in 2010, before 80 k miles, so per manufacturer recommendation it would have to be changed soon; although I suppose not replacing because of the time limit instead of the mileage is less of a problem. My guess if I don' use it much still good for a year, but the VVT pulley ? How much extra does the VVT pulley change cost when you do the timing belt?
I always wonder about the possibility the mileage is not accurate, I always ask myself why would one sell a car like that at that mileage ? The interior is mint but owner had put covers on the seat.

One thing that I like is the console has a carbon fiber look, really cool on this car, but is it original, didn' t know they made them like that.

VVT , you will need to get a Proper quote for one + fitting it With the new cambelt/tensioner + aux belt and tensioner at the same time ,, saves on labour,
belts = volvo say X years OR XX miles whichever is first = Change it , "oh but its only done 3miles on a 12year old belt - buy a new engine thinking

PCV , read up more and learn how it works, rather than some random dummies internerds test with a glove

Most important of all
IF the car was worth buying , youd have bought it,, rather than wait, risk loosing it and ask random people "is it worth it",, and without a Price for the car,, no one can answer ,,

VVT + belts + labour ran me about £350ish "some" years ago on mine, and it is going to cost me About the same again innabits for another set of belts + labour to fit em,, And possibly a vvt if that POS thing has failed AGAIN
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Old May 29th, 2018, 01:35   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V40addict View Post
By interior I mean the seats mainly.
What bothers me mostly is the PCV - positive crankcase pressure issue, common sense would mean this engine is prone to leaks. Oil consumption too, what are the signs to look for (no smoke here, but oil very recent so maybe there is abnormal consumption) ?
The seats are part of the incompatible airbag system unfortunately. The side airbags in the phase 1 is a mechanical system, and the phase 2 is an electrical detonator wired into the SRS ECU. So yes you can swap phase 2 seats into a phase 1, but the side airbags will not work in a side collison. If you were to do it the other way round then the airbag light would come on in the phase 2 and you'd have an MOT failure.

HOWEVER, no one has yet pointed out that the 2000MY car your looking at isn't strictly a phase 1. It's more than likely a phase 1.5 which has a mix and match of phase 1 and 2 bits. Pure phase 1s finished at the end of 1998, and the phase 2 started in mid to late 2000. Is the car your looking at on a W or X reg? Is the seat height adjuster on the outer side of the seat like your 2001 car? If so then you may be in luck. If the adjuster is a thin lever on the inboard side of the seat, then these are phase 1 jobs.

Also, phase 1's didn't have a VVT system, but the 1.5's did. Regarding the PCV, they will all blow oil out when the cap is removed which is a bit alarming, because it's being thrown up by the cams. You need to check whether it is actually blowing air out as well. Don't do the glove test, it's crap. And if it is actually sucking, the last thing you want is latex being wrapped round a camshaft. Just gently lay the cap back on without latching it. If, as you're placing the cap on, you feel a very slight pull, and/or if the cap stays there without it blowing oil out the sides, then it's fine.

Regarding oil usage, they do seem to consume oil. My phase 1 car actually has a factory fitted sticker on the fuel filler cap saying: "Note: Check oil level after refuelling". I fitted a new PCV a couple years ago (because the old one was caked) which wasn't difficult or expensive to do, and did a compression test which was spot on, yet the car still uses about 500ml every 2000 miles or so.

Edit: I just remembered VVT cars have a metal grate underneath the filler cap so you can't actually see the camshafts. Volvo probably realised that too many people were shoving gloves into their engine's valetrain so rectified the issue. It'll probably still throw oil past the grates though, so still just lay the cap on and see if oil comes out the sides.. or throws the cap off. Then you have an issue.
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Old May 30th, 2018, 05:36   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin93 View Post
Also, phase 1's didn't have a VVT system, but the 1.5's did.
True.

Quote:
Originally Posted by martin93 View Post
And if it is actually sucking, the last thing you want is latex being wrapped round a camshaft. Just gently lay the cap back on without latching it. If, as you're placing the cap on, you feel a very slight pull, and/or if the cap stays there without it blowing oil out the sides, then it's fine.
True. I've never had any success with this stupid glove test either.

The PCV isn't complicated, and it doesn't even have a valve at all, it's simply a clear void between several bits of engine and the inlet manifold. The manifold sucks and draws the vapourous gases, where either condensate oil is returned by gravity to the sump or gets burned in the cylinders.
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Old Jun 13th, 2018, 23:29   #15
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The car was sold the next morning, I had told the seller I would come back in the afternoon to see it washed (because it was dusty) but another buyer showed up earlier.
Anyway, I never like to decide on the spot and in this case there were a few things that held me back. Namely, timing belt change was due so it doubled the actual cost of the car, dusty outside, not washed in a very long time, spotless inside and meticulously cleaned (therefore outside suspicious), it was a phase 1, I prefer the facelift models after 2001 and people here made me realize so many parts were changed, even the design of the rear lights was slightly altered I recently realized that despite having seen many cars and tons of pictures.

I also got concerned after opening the oil filler cap, but I think that was a case of a litlle knowledge can be a dangerous thing. I don't think there was anything wrong, it was spewing oil, but mine which has the screen and definitely sucks in the glove makes small projections despite the screen and it makes the same noise. GOOD THING I DIDN T TRY THE SO-CALLED GLOVE TEST, THE GLOVE WOULD HAVE BEEN SUCKED IN , that's what it did on mine but the screen prevented the glove from being swallowed. I can imagine the ordeal and the face of the owner.


I have my sights on another V40 now, somewhat higher mileage a little over 100k miles, very good condition, but the timing belt was changed at 100 k miles for the first time apparently, and it's not shown in the book which has no entry after 80K miles. Also last owner - who had it done - owned the car for 6 months, drove more than 10 k miles during that time and then it went to the used car dealer. Very strange. Trying to figure out who was that last user the last owner or the used car dealer who said it had been registered on a garage name, doesn't look good if someone bought it and sold it 6 months later after doing the timing belt.

Last edited by V40addict; Jun 13th, 2018 at 23:43.
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Old Jun 14th, 2018, 21:08   #16
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There could indeed be dark reasons for a previous owner moving the car on after 6mths and having spent money on it-say an impending big ticket item or a perception of such.However there are many legitimate reasons for doing so also.Arrival of a company car,need of something physically bigger/smaller,needing something more economical for a longer commute to work than previously was the case to name just a few.If you're genuinely interested go have a look/test drive,if necessary take someone with you who may be slightly more objective on the matter.Then go from there,be prepared to walk away if you're unsatisfied.
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Old Jun 17th, 2018, 01:43   #17
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OK I got more info from the used car dealer, good news is that the belt was changed by another car trader before resale to last owner. Bad news is the dealer forwarded me the history he got from the address of a taxi company. So it looks like the CAR WAS USED AS A TAXI (will check with the seller). I guess it's a deal breaker as such use is very taxing on just about every part of the car, and at the minimum it would be due for a visit to a garage for a big maintenance . Which would also explain the price which is about 20% lower than most V40 of simialr condition and mileage.
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Old Jun 17th, 2018, 16:42   #18
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If you know the reg number, check on the mot history checker ! https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
Not only can you see the mot history, but you can check that the mileage goes up steadily, if the mileage readings go down at any point, it may have been clocked !
The mileage does seem rather low if it's been used as a taxi ? A mate of mine is a taxi driver/ owner & does about 60K a year
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Old Jun 22nd, 2018, 09:02   #19
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My VVT has been "rattling" for nigh on 18 months, I've had a new VVT for nearly 12 months. I can't be arsed to put it on and I haven't noticed any reduction in performance or fuel consumption!
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