Fuel Pump Location

[amazon69]

Sounds like you're getting somewhere. 14 years is a long time. Not as long as 15 mind.
I would replace all fuel lines, flush the tank, put a filter in before the pump and one after. Fuel pump is cheap to replace or just test it by removing fuel line on carb from pump, turning car over and seeing if fuel pumps into a receptacle of your choosing. Personally I would also take the float bowls apart on the carbs and clean them all up..it would be wise to put in new needle valves.
Have fun.

[SE10 Amazon]

So........

I would replace all fuel lines,

Easy enough, I can do that. where the lines go from flex to solid, is there a part number for these, or is it easier to make a home made set?

flush the tank

Again this shouldn't be too hard

put a filter in before the pump and one after

I saw this in one of the previous posts and it looked like a good idea and also quite visually impressive

Fuel pump is cheap to replace or just test it by removing fuel line on carb from pump, turning car over and seeing if fuel pumps into a receptacle of your choosing.

Noted and not hard to see if its working

Personally I would also take the float bowls apart on the carbs and clean them all up..it would be wise to put in new needle valves.

and this is where my limited knowledge expires!

[mocambique-amazone]

Happy Eastern SE10, you did find a pump ;-)

Renew all flexible Fuel hose line swith the best stuff you will get. Don't buy cheap, or buy a hughe fire extinghisher additionally. Next weekend I will have a look for the right number. Expensive (~10 pound/3 ft) stuff and not available this moment!!

Your car is with the worst inlet manifold volvo ever build. Swap it, use one without exhaust butterfly. Spent your money very well and send the carbs to a good company. The will overhaule them and you will be surprised. Not very expensive too, in relation to anger about you will you trying to fix the engine to run.

regards, Kay

[Ron Kwas]

SE10A;

When replacing Fuel Pump, torque securing bolts evenly, and not too tight to prevent breaking the brittle Bakelite spacer.

If replacing Carb Bowl Valves, clean valve-housings well...even polishing! See: http://www.sw-em.com/su_carbs.htm#Co...0SU%20problems

Kay has it right about the Dual-Throttle Manifold...its the one to loose and replace when you have an opportunity (although I'm not so sure what he means by "exhaust butterfly"). See: http://www.sw-em.com/manifolding_notes.htm

Good Hunting!

[SE10 Amazon]

if i stripped the carbs off and got them sent away, it would be a good time to replace the manifold.

But the question is......with what?

who supplies alternates? Looking at the car, there is probably a need to replace the entire exhaust system.

thanks again!

[c1800]

Originally Posted by SE10 Amazon

I would replace all fuel lines,

Easy enough, I can do that. where the lines go from flex to solid, is there a part number for these, or is it easier to make a home made set?

Original solid line is steel. Hard to work with. Suggest procuring some copper/nickel/steel replacement line in the correct diameter. Often referred to as cunifer, looks like copper but is stronger. Don’t use pure copper as it’s not strong enough, will fatigue and crack at stress/vibration points.

It’s much easier to bend than steel. Process is to remove the steel line from the vehicle taking care to not bend out of existing shape as little as possible, lay down the cunifer beside it on the floor and replicate the bends on the old one. Install the new one on the car and make adjustments as required to align with brackets/clamps where it attaches to the underside of the body.

While you can blow out the old line on the car, the old line likely has corroded to a certain extent and can fail at an inopertune time.

Make sure you take care not to spill gas or have any open flames, sparks, and no smoking! while doing this.