Frustration - Page 2

arcturus · Nov 30th, 2014, 12:03

Like Alice in Wonderland, curiouser and curiouser. This is a fuse box i fitted for my lighting circuit. When I disconnect the leads from the exit side they are still live! My fuel gauge activates and oil light when I turn the key but the motor doesn't turn over. Some times I think I'm hallucinating.I think I will go and buy a packet of double acting aspirin.

Derek UK · Nov 30th, 2014, 13:13

Difficult to know what's going on there as it's wired differently to the original fuse box. On the original, if you still have it, you'll see that most of one side is bridged at the back by a bus bar. You can see this on the diagram. Compare what yours is now with the previous wiring diagram I posted. List top to bottom what circuits each fuse protects and what the rating is. The original box had a couple of 25amp fuses.
Straight question. What books manuals do you have for your car. What don't you have?

arcturus · Nov 30th, 2014, 13:53

Derek, I still have the original fuse box fitted on bulkhead. This is an additional fuse / connector box for lighting circuit. Once I get the steering wheel off I will be able to pull back the dash and access the switches and wiring and check every thing to make sure it's all as it should be.

arcturus · Dec 1st, 2014, 10:34

Just checking all bases. First of all can I use my multimeter to check battery condition, not volts, and secondly If my battery is in a low state of charge would I get some indication such as a click from the solenoid. My lights are now working and my oil light glows plus fuel gauge shows. Is there any way I can check the regulator.What part does it play in the start up sequence? I have the dash panel all unfastened, just need to borrow a puller for the steering wheel. Then I will be able to check and clean all the connections of switches and gauges. I'm sure that It will all sort out in the end.

Underdrive · Dec 1st, 2014, 11:07

Unfortunately you can't use a basic multimeter. In order to test the condition and state of charge of your battery you will need a 'drop' tester that measures the drop in voltage under load. These testers used to be expensive and only found in garages and not something diy mechanics had. Fortunately there are widely available digital ones now like this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6V-12V-100...item2ed86cae3f As you will see it is good for 6v batteries as well as 12v. Unfortunately tracing faults like this require a methodical testing for voltage at every stage along the route from battery to component, whether that is starter motor, lights or wipers etc. You need to be able to understand the wiring diagram in order to be able to figure out the route to follow. Good luck.

Derek UK · Dec 1st, 2014, 12:18

"My lights are now working and my oil light glows plus fuel gauge shows."

Does your ignition light come on with the key? Wire for the light does come from the regulator but the car will start fine with a good battery, even if the regulator isn't working. i.e. It's not regulating the charge from the dynamo to the battery.
After charging with your "modified" charger, the battery might show about 7v if checked straight after you've switched off the charger. Should probably show 6.4 - 6.6v after sitting for 24 hours after that. Volts aren't amps but with headlights on it should be able to sit there for several hours before they start to get a bit dim.

arcturus · Dec 1st, 2014, 13:15

Yes, now the ign' light and fuel gauge become active with the key. I'm leaving it for a day or two to refresh my brain!

arcturus · Dec 3rd, 2014, 10:52

Think I'm getting on top of the problem. I think that there is a wiring/connection problem in the area of the interface between the light switch and horn! This morning I turned the key and the gauges fired up and oil light. switched on side lights and working, then full beam and everything shut down! Now here's the funny thing. I pushed in the horn button and released and everything came back,the engine even turned over. Now I need to find a puller for the steering wheel so that I can get the dash off and check everything back there. Looking at the wiring diagram can you see any possible connection. Faulty relay?

Derek UK · Dec 3rd, 2014, 11:25

As it looks like the horn circuit is completely separate, remove the grey wire from the top fuse, 25amp from ignition, and with luck everything should work. Except the horns of course. Perhaps the horns aren't working now and this could again be due to the earths for them being compromised by the new paint. 25amp from the ignition is linked down that side of the fuse box by a buss bar on the back as mentioned.

arcturus · Dec 3rd, 2014, 12:06

Will do that next. These is the connections at back of relay, were they correct as the numbers etc don't seem to tally. The grey went to +, center connection, and the black to s- Not sure what the L connection is for. There is only one horn fitted.

Nov 30th, 2014, 13:53	#13
arcturus arcturus Last Online: Today 07:17 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Sagres Portugal	Derek, I still have the original fuse box fitted on bulkhead. This is an additional fuse / connector box for lighting circuit. Once I get the steering wheel off I will be able to pull back the dash and access the switches and wiring and check every thing to make sure it's all as it should be. __________________ life's too short to drink bad wine

Dec 1st, 2014, 10:34	#14
arcturus arcturus Last Online: Today 07:17 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Sagres Portugal	Just checking all bases. First of all can I use my multimeter to check battery condition, not volts, and secondly If my battery is in a low state of charge would I get some indication such as a click from the solenoid. My lights are now working and my oil light glows plus fuel gauge shows. Is there any way I can check the regulator.What part does it play in the start up sequence? I have the dash panel all unfastened, just need to borrow a puller for the steering wheel. Then I will be able to check and clean all the connections of switches and gauges. I'm sure that It will all sort out in the end. __________________ life's too short to drink bad wine

Dec 1st, 2014, 13:15	#17
arcturus arcturus Last Online: Today 07:17 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Sagres Portugal	Yes, now the ign' light and fuel gauge become active with the key. I'm leaving it for a day or two to refresh my brain! __________________ life's too short to drink bad wine

Nov 30th, 2014, 13:13	#12
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 14:29 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	Difficult to know what's going on there as it's wired differently to the original fuse box. On the original, if you still have it, you'll see that most of one side is bridged at the back by a bus bar. You can see this on the diagram. Compare what yours is now with the previous wiring diagram I posted. List top to bottom what circuits each fuse protects and what the rating is. The original box had a couple of 25amp fuses. Straight question. What books manuals do you have for your car. What don't you have?

Dec 1st, 2014, 11:07	#15
Underdrive Senior Member Last Online: Apr 9th, 2024 10:10 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: stranraer	Unfortunately you can't use a basic multimeter. In order to test the condition and state of charge of your battery you will need a 'drop' tester that measures the drop in voltage under load. These testers used to be expensive and only found in garages and not something diy mechanics had. Fortunately there are widely available digital ones now like this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6V-12V-100...item2ed86cae3f As you will see it is good for 6v batteries as well as 12v. Unfortunately tracing faults like this require a methodical testing for voltage at every stage along the route from battery to component, whether that is starter motor, lights or wipers etc. You need to be able to understand the wiring diagram in order to be able to figure out the route to follow. Good luck.

Dec 1st, 2014, 12:18	#16
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 14:29 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	"My lights are now working and my oil light glows plus fuel gauge shows." Does your ignition light come on with the key? Wire for the light does come from the regulator but the car will start fine with a good battery, even if the regulator isn't working. i.e. It's not regulating the charge from the dynamo to the battery. After charging with your "modified" charger, the battery might show about 7v if checked straight after you've switched off the charger. Should probably show 6.4 - 6.6v after sitting for 24 hours after that. Volts aren't amps but with headlights on it should be able to sit there for several hours before they start to get a bit dim.

Dec 3rd, 2014, 11:25	#19
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 14:29 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	As it looks like the horn circuit is completely separate, remove the grey wire from the top fuse, 25amp from ignition, and with luck everything should work. Except the horns of course. Perhaps the horns aren't working now and this could again be due to the earths for them being compromised by the new paint. 25amp from the ignition is linked down that side of the fuse box by a buss bar on the back as mentioned.

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