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Old Dec 3rd, 2014, 14:55   #21
mocambique-amazone
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Hello Acturus

This relay s a flash light one.
In your case:
+ is from ignition 15 the grey on: ok "TAKE CARE THERE ARE OTHER GREYS TOO, TO THE LIGHT EXAMPLE"
s is from horn button the "ground"-switch the black one: ok
56a should go to the horn himself

Like your diagram the relay is parallel to the original wiring connected, that's without sence
Like you wrote the relay opens a second circuit and get a catch


go with a wire direct from batterie to the red wire point at the fuse box. Everything should work. If this is so, your problem is in following line: Batterie-Ignition switch-fuse box. Check every point carefully.

The colours in the pic above from the fuse box and in the wiring diagram are not the same?? Everything I wrote is to the diagram connected

difficult to find from the distance, sorry

Goog luck, regards, Kay

Last edited by mocambique-amazone; Dec 3rd, 2014 at 14:59. Reason: oversight pic
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Old Dec 3rd, 2014, 15:03   #22
Derek UK
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The dotted part of the circuit would indicate that it's used when a second horn is fitted so a single horn would work without it. Not saying that it wouldn't work better if a relay was used in a single horn circuit but a single horn would reduce the amount of sparking at the horn button if that contact wasn't very positive.
Kay has posted while I'm writing this and says that this relay is for the headlight flasher. If you have a rectangular one that is for the horn I think.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2014, 16:16   #23
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I think that in the past there has been a lot of make do and bodging! Slowly getting things back to as they should be.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2014, 17:36   #24
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Yes Derek, a relay is way better, it will reduce "sparks" in the steering box. The wire goes trough the steering coloumn, and the steering box is part of earth. Not a good thing. A relay system should work by his own, not parrallel.
Good night, Kay with heavy headache because I have catched a cold
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Old Dec 3rd, 2014, 19:16   #25
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I think I've got it all sorted now. Still need to pull steering wheel off and tidy up behind dash plus sort out the temp gauge. I'm going to go with the electric conversion when I can get the old one out.
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Old Dec 4th, 2014, 11:26   #26
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Managed to pull of the steering wheel but can't figure out the shroud. Don't want to damage anything Can't see any fixing screws.
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Old Dec 4th, 2014, 12:23   #27
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I think there is a bracket on the tube. The switch is fixed to this by 2 screws which are accessed from the back, check with a mirror. Shroud is also held onto the bracket by the same screws. You might have to remove the wires from the switch first.
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Old Dec 4th, 2014, 15:09   #28
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Sorted!
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Old Dec 10th, 2014, 11:53   #29
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Well, I thought I had it sorted. It has been no problem for a few days and now it's back again. It's a weird problem. When left for some time I turn the key and everything lights up, turn further to start, lights go out and electrics dead. leave it for ten fifteen min's and the same thing happens turn key everything lights up turn to start and goes dead. Is there anything in the start circuit that could cause this? I don't know where to look next. Could the ignition switch cause this if faulty? Looking at the diagram I see that the switch has a lead that goes to the start motor and battery via a connection on the charging relay. I know that the relay isn't involved in the start process but could it have a fault which could cause this problem?

OK, tried again just now and no power, I tapped around the start motor and solenoid with mallet and everything came back to life, next thing may be to remove start mot' and check it out for problems.
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